Katana sharpening

cpio

cpio

Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
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I've had a Hanwei Practical Plus XL for a number of years now, which I've used for quite a bit of backyard tameshigiri. This is clearly an inexpensive katana and nowhere near the quality of some of the more expensive production shinken from Hanwei, Bugei, Ronin Katana and the like. The ha has reached the point where I really can't do much in the way of cutting. Although it was inexpensive, I really like this sword, but would a hybrid polish/sharpening really be worth the price or should I mount this on a wall and find a replacement? What should I expect to pay for this? Are there any service providers on the forum qualified to service a katana in this fashion? Any thoughts, constructive criticism and/or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 
Since it's a modern production kat, it would be a suitable piece to learn/practice on...

Google "sandpaper sharpen katana"

I use 1000 and 4000 grit waterstones to touch up the edges on my production kats.

Follow the original profile/bevel of the blade when sharpening.
 
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There are numerous youtube videos that show methods the easiest to learn is to use a belt sander. This one is really good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojG_4jz-_wU I have a katana that this guy sharpened an it is wicked--I've also used his method on a sword or two.

You can also get it done professionally rather inexpensively. If you do a google search for "katana sharpening" you'll find someone to do it.

I would go ahead and sharpen it and keep using it. It's a good sword and you're comfortable with it. And for me the practical plus XL is expensive enough (I have one, too.)
 
So much depends on just how dull the blade is. I have been maintaining an older Hanwei PK for a dozen years and once a year have touched it up mostly with just a ceramic rod. I have also used a small diamond plate as described at the end of this thread.

http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?90109-A-newbie-sharpening-question/page2

Keith Larman polishes high end blades and is also fairly familiar with Bugei level swords, as he has checked many sold by them.

All the tricks for sharpening convex grinds will work but swords are longer than knives. Practice first on smaller blades. Start with your kitchen knives. Maintaining sharp edges is better than waiting too long. There really are dozens of methods that work. If you lack a ceramic rod, try the back of a plate or even the unglazed side of a toilet top. With small stones or rods, wipe along the edge. On bigger surfaces, run the edge along a surface. You don't want a big bevel, just touch it up if a little dull.

http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htm

There are youtube videos if you really want to go to town with it but remember the original hamon will need attention if you want to see it. It is also easy to lose crispness of the geometry.

Good luck. Keep em sharp.

The last blade I did in full with paper (it was a mess) was mostly to remove what someone had done with a belt grinder.

Cheers

GC
 
I'd sharpen any modern reproduction piece on my belt grinder. It's a Kalamazoo 1SM. If you lived close I'd sharpen your sword for nothing. I put a micro bevel on my Hamwei Raptor Tanto and it is one of the sharpest best cutting knives I own.
 
Thank you for your generous offer Infi-del! That is very nice of you.

I might actually get my hands on one of these $50 sword sharpening kits that comes with a wooden stand, a bucket, coarse and fine waterstones and silicon carbide sandpaper and try my luck. I'm certainly not spending $2000+ to sharpen a $350 katana and I would like to learn how to touch up a sword at home.
 
It will take forever to sharpen with waterstones and sandpaper.

$160 and some $5 belts, and this Craftsman belt grinder will give you years of utility and entertainment!

spin_prod_865405212


I've been making knives on mine for years now. I sharpen convex edges on the "slack" part of the belt between the platen and top wheel.
 
Nixelplix said:
It will take forever to sharpen with waterstones and sandpaper.

$160 and some $5 belts, and this Craftsman belt grinder will give you years of utility and entertainment!

spin_prod_865405212


I've been making knives on mine for years now. I sharpen convex edges on the "slack" part of the belt between the platen and top wheel.
Click to expand...

If you're going to spend that much I HIGHLY recommend the Kalamazoo 1SM. It runs at a very low 1800 RPM and is very easy to learn on. I actually turn mine around bakwards so that the belt is running upward towards the sky. I know that's dangerous but I can see where the edge is meeting the belt an watch as the bur is raised. I start with a 220 belt, then 600, then 1,000, then finish with a leather belt loaded with flitz metal polish. I get hair splitting edges in about 5 minutes.
 
I agree with Infi-del. I have a small 1x42 I use for sharpening and run it reversed (switched in the motor not reverse the machine) and edge up (ie, the belt running up). That way I can see the burr develop.
 
Nixelplix said:
I grind edge up, with the belt going down, like you are supposed to. :D
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You grind with the belt running into the edge? Doesn't the blade cut into the belt when you get up to the finer grits? I can't imagine this would work with a leather belt.
 
With a good leather belt you can maintain the edges of some of these Chinese cutters for years without ever really needing to actually sharpen them.
 
I don't use leather belts, I use regular high grit belts. The blade does not cut into the belt. I finish on a stone and then ceramic rods.
 
I'd reprofile the crap out of the sword by hand. A lot of swords have unnecessary niku and horrible geometry which decreases cutting proficiency by a ridiculous margin. Very very few production companies (nearly none) get it right.
What exactly are you cutting? Tatami omote, bamboo, waterbottles?
Normally I wouldn't recommend using a belt sharpener but given the sword you have, I'd say go for it.
 
Mostly tatami, and bamboo when I can actually find some. As for doing a sharpening polish I'm exploring various options based on the great feedback I'm getting in this thread. I'm seriously considering getting one of the inexpensive kits that comes with two waterstones, a storage box/stone holder and a water bucket. I'm also going to see about getting sandpaper in the grits that I will need. I don't mind doing the work by hand, as it will probably help me learn something.

Luis G. said:
I'd reprofile the crap out of the sword by hand. A lot of swords have unnecessary niku and horrible geometry which decreases cutting proficiency by a ridiculous margin. Very very few production companies (nearly none) get it right.
What exactly are you cutting? Tatami omote, bamboo, waterbottles?
Normally I wouldn't recommend using a belt sharpener but given the sword you have, I'd say go for it.
Click to expand...
 
I reckon it would be a good start considering I'm not exactly a master togishi.
 
cpio said:
I reckon it would be a good start considering I'm not exactly a master togishi.
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It wouldn't. The wood is cheaply made and rocks and forths easily. Unless you are buying the expensive hanwei version (like $300? last I checked).
The stones are of very low quality as well. (even lower than the ones you find at home depot).

The best thing is to buy an actual clamp or suction stone holder.
 
Should I choose to do a job like this using sandpaper, what grade of sandpaper do I need and what grits should I start with and progress up to if I want to reach a martial arts polish? I don't really think I need to make the sword shine like a mirror, but I would prefer not to have to do this again for a while.......
 
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