Keeping etched Logo's Dark?

Wolf Creek Forge

Wolf Creek Forge

Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
533
Hi, I am wondering if any of you have a way to keep logo's dark after the etch? We get a nice deep etch, thats no problem..Then when you switch to AC to darken it gets nice and dark but then when you go to clean the mark up the dark always pulls out easily. Im guessing thats normal? I clean the area around and over the etch with windex and usually have to make a pass over with the last grit belt to clean up the cloudy area around the etch..
Now I know the cloudy area shouldent really be there but when I got a particular batch of stencils they all did that..No matter what we tried..When we tried some one shot stencils from another manufacturer they were much better..My old stencils are used up so we are in the process of ordering some from a different company..
Is it my clean up, or is that just the nature of black deposits in the etch?
 
That's the experience that I have always had. I use Ernie Grospitch's stencils with the Atlas Mini Etcher. I usually don't get much of a cloud and what is there will come off easily with sandpaper, scotchbrite pad, steel wool, etc. I mark the spine of my knives so it's pretty easy to hand finish that area.

I never have had much luck getting a nice black finish to stay in my etch so I usually end up polishing them out instead.

Try this to help with the cloud: get some neutralyte from USAKnifemaker and wet the back of your stencil before laying it on to the steel. The idea is to contain the etching solution and keep it from spreading around. Your etch pad should be just damp. I wet mine then squeeze as much solution out as I can. Pulse your current if you can.
 
Thanks, I hadnt tried the neutralyte, Ill pick some up next order..Yea, the cloud I get comes off easily but I can never keep the logo dark..I even thought about using some sort of paint/dye like the leather hi-liter we use for stamped leather..You know paint it in the stampings and then wipe the excess off? dont know how that would work on a knife blade though? nyone tried it?
 
Try a spray of Windex on the area to be stenciled before etching and then put the stencil down and etch. Using this method cleared up any ghosting for me and makes a nice dark etch.
 
Get a small bottle of "Background Antique", used for jewelry work. It is a thick black varnish. After the blade is completely done, clean the logo area with acetone and then put some of the antique on the logo. Then gently wipe most of the excess off. Allow the rest to fully dry for a few hours, then use a polishing cloth or soft to rub off the varnish from the surface. It will stay in the recess of the logo.
 
^^ are you serious?? ** with an un-sarcastic tone **

I couldn't imagine doing that, my etch would be ground clean off...

wolfcreek, good thread I have had this similar problem here on my last knife.. and have had an issue before and never really could dial in the problem, as before with the same etchant, stencil and etcher I could get solid black with it remaining intact even after lightly going over it with 1000grit and windex.. not so much now, it seems to almost wipe off...

since I'm in the same boat I'm almost under the impression of just etching real deep then maybe getting some high quality black epoxy, or just tint some regular epoxy on-hand black and fill the surface, wipe and lightly sand.. presto...

but in your case I think you just need to keep forging your steel and stamping your knives, just saying... :)
 
i set the black with acetone and then clean up with windex thats about it only time i have it get cleaned out is if i scottbrite belt the hell out of it
 
so clean the surface with acetone?? maybe that's what I've been doing before and now have for some reason been using denatured alcohol... ?? hmmm
 
pre etch and post i use acetone
alot of people think i stamp my mark in as its so deep and dark
BTW the steels i use are O1 3v CPM154 and CTS-XHP jsut so you knwo what im dealing with (both hand sanded and belt finished )
 
here is a quick shot close up of one of the latest blades i finished
dsc04338sm.jpg
 
As I'm sitting here with 5 different bottles of electrolyte, 110A, 94, 50, SC-44, and SC-35, I have to ask what electrolyte you are using and what type of steel. I'm prepping to spend a few hours testing the various electrolytes. Some are better for stainless, some for carbon, some blacken better, some etch deeper.
 
That looks really good Butch. I'll have to try using acetone....

Zaph1, I use carbon steels for the most part with the 110A electrolyte.
 
what ever max settign is i have no clue and i darken by sound (you can hear the spot were the humming seems to be working best yes i know its crazy)
 
Butch I use the same stencils and the same etchant, I have a clairborne etcher and have gotten great results in the past.. I typically use 1095,01 and 5160 with the same etchant and pretty much same results with all 3 steels..

I've been using denatured alcohol lately because its within arm reach of my station:), I never thought the chemistry between the two would make such a big deal but maybe you're on to something there with the acetone because that's what I used to use with the same process and great results...

Lately with my 'iffy' etches, the etch is still deep and the mark looks dark I'll clean it up with 1000 grit and wd40, then clean it all up with windex and for the finish I wax it with renaissance.. after all this the mark seems to dull bigtime...

btw, I pretty much do exactly as you shown in your video with the exception the Clairborne doesn't have the dial, so my next etch will be with acetone and I report my findings...

@Zaph I'd be interested to hear what your experience is with the different etches....
 
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