I make chef knives almost exclusively but dont really have fixed patterns, more like general trends and rules I stick to. I can offer some info but I would recommend looking around, making some drawings outlining some specs and getting feedback and critique from shop talk.
Some guidelines
1/8 to 3/16 at the spine the thickness will determine distal taper, if you start thick taper more and faster, if you start thinner taper less aggressively.
No holes in the edge (places where the edge does not make direct cutting board contact.
1.75 to 2 inches tall at the heal
7-11 inches in blade length.
.005 inch thick edge before sharpening, thicker will detract cutting ability
In a pinch grip, the side the thumb is on should be full flat ground, the other side should have a partial flat grind about sixty to seventy percent up the face of the blade. Then the area above the bevel can be convexed a bit to aid in food release.
The tip of the blade should be about inline with the bottom of the front bolster or bottom of the stick tang on a hidden tang knife.
When you are holding the knife on the cutting board and only the heal of the blade is touching, the edge should angle up and away from the cutting board toward the tip. Kind of like a "greater than" symbol with the lower leg (the cutting board, flat and parallel). This provides for finger clearance you dont want an edge that his parallel with the top of the handle.
The key to a great knife is the balance of all of these things to get a knife that effortlessly cuts up food and does not have that food stick to the bevels with each cut. Being appropriately thin behind the edge allows a bit more flexibility in some things like taper, spin thickness and grind. Most of these are not unbreakable rules but things I have studies and learned from making chef knives.