KME and not overdoing the knife tip

[RayseM]

Help please.

I find the KME sharpens my Endura perfectly - but anything shorter (in the 2-7/8" to 3-1/4" range) and some longer blades I just can't seem to find the proper position to clamp the blade that doesn't result in a broad tip bevel . I get a nice even sharpening along the body of the blade but nearly always end up misshaping the tip with a longer bevel. What the

The line of the spine is obviously not the guide for aligning the blade with the clamps. Tip further out or closer in to the centerline?

A sketch or set up photo would be very helpful. Some blades are deeper bellied does that make a difference? Does any blade with less than 3-1/2" of cutting edge require a KME add on?

Thank you for any help please, I'm ready to chuck this thing.

A broad tip and not happy about it,
Ray

 

[jll346]

When using the KME you need to draw a line on the blade. From tip to bottom end of blade (where it starts at plunge line). Now find middle of that line. Clamp parallel to line and centered. Go on Facebook and join KME USERS GROUP. Everything you need to know about the KME.

 

[RayseM]

Thanks for the line technique. Otherwise no FB for me.
BF is about all my social media participation.

Thanks.

Ray

 

[RayseM]

Well I've watched a bunch of KME videos today. The line trick and centering the blade left to right seemed most effective.
The next question then is, what is the practical limits for blade size - towards the smaller end?

I have a few 2-7/8" long blades that are no more than 3/4" tall at the wide end and are in the 1/2" range along the middle. Do these qualify as "pen knives" and so I should be using the smaller KME jaws? I have successfully sharpened these but in order to do so and still get the regular jaws to hold I end up grinding the edges of the jaws too.

Oh - and typically at 20° to 18° which is seems the right angle for these smaller blades.

Any advice? Thanks very much.

Ray

 

[Eli Chaps]

Well I've watched a bunch of KME videos today. The line trick and centering the blade left to right seemed most effective.
The next question then is, what is the practical limits for blade size - towards the smaller end?

I have a few 2-7/8" long blades that are no more than 3/4" tall at the wide end and are in the 1/2" range along the middle. Do these qualify as "pen knives" and so I should be using the smaller KME jaws? I have successfully sharpened these but in order to do so and still get the regular jaws to hold I end up grinding the edges of the jaws too.

Oh - and typically at 20° to 18° which is seems the right angle for these smaller blades.

Any advice? Thanks very much.

Ray

Hi Ray,

I've been using a KME for several years and the very first piece of advice I will give is to go on YouTube and find videos by Dean O. He has a bunch and they are very good!

I don't get overly worked up about about centering on most of my knives. I mean I'm not sloppy but I don't measure or draw lines or any of that on the majority of what I sharpen. You can eyeball it in close enough. I don't stress the bevel width too much either. Whenever possible, clamp on the first line (nearest the jaw opening) and never deeper than the second. This will help mitigate the bevel width. But again, these days I'm far more concerned about the edge performance than I am the look so take it for what it is worth.

I would recommend getting the pen jaws for narrower (edge to spine) knives. They are thinner and will allow you to get lower angles on the blades.

 

[PeterS84]

Well I've watched a bunch of KME videos today. The line trick and centering the blade left to right seemed most effective.
The next question then is, what is the practical limits for blade size - towards the smaller end?

I have a few 2-7/8" long blades that are no more than 3/4" tall at the wide end and are in the 1/2" range along the middle. Do these qualify as "pen knives" and so I should be using the smaller KME jaws? I have successfully sharpened these but in order to do so and still get the regular jaws to hold I end up grinding the edges of the jaws too.

Oh - and typically at 20° to 18° which is seems the right angle for these smaller blades.

Any advice? Thanks very much.

Ray

I've recently sharpened my Buck 371 Stockman slipjoint using my KME... most acute angle I could achieve without using the lower profile "pen knife" jaw set was 20 degrees per side, which was just fine with me especially considering that 420J2 is not exactly a super wear-resistant steel that would do well with a really acute angle. Personally, I'd suggest getting the pen knife jaws that KME sells if you're planning on doing a lot of slipjoint/swiss-army-type knives.

 

[RayseM]

Yes - thanks all. I think the smaller jaws could be useful. As for stressing the bevel - part of the great appeal of knives to me - their compelling draw - is the precision of nice folders and the close fit and tolerances, distal tapers etc. of well made fixed blades. Getting the bevel correct is my little part to maintain the esthetics of the precision. Yes, of course the function of the edge is key but I will continue to strive for sharp as well as nice and even bevels (at least with my newer knives and more expensive knives ). I have a few old dogs that are sharpened to nearly "edge bevel symmetry oblivion" but they are still sharp.

Thanks for the help.
Ray