knife cuts through sheath

E

elementfe

Joined
May 3, 2008
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I know this is a problem that gets discussed now and then, but I didn't see much in the search.

I make hunting knives with very acute points similar to the Schrade Sharpfinger, and have despaired of making a sheath that doesn't eventually get cut when putting the knife back in the sheath. (usually by a looker at my show table, when I'm not paying attention)
Is there a way to make a nice looking leather sheath that isn't so vulnerable?
Everyone is telling me, "Oh, just line it with something." Easier said than done, and I'd like to keep these knives in soft leather rather than something scratchy like Kydex.

Thanks for any ideas!

Andy G.
 
Andy, Paul Long has used a bit of jb weld on the inside tip just for this reason. I'll let him explain better, but it might be the answer.
 
Does the edge have an enclosed third layer between the front and back?



If you crush it so it has a Y cross-section and sew it with the thicker section towards the blade, it provides a lot of protection.

I'm sure there is a proper name of that part of a sheath, but as I only make sheaths for myself, I never needed to communicate economically about parts. In a boot it would be a "welt."

There are other methods, like a wooden liner, but that is very time-consuming.

Some commercial sheaths use a fiberboard liner, and that seems to work. Not sure where you get the thin fiberboard. I watched a maker use it at a knife show, and it was quick. Outline; a few snips with some craft shears; and shoved it in. Held by friction.
 
A welt is correct. Mine typically taper with the end being roughly 75% the thickness of the spine of the knife. That's just the way I was taught.

Wet forming around the ricasso can help the knife bottom out before the tip goes any further than the welt.

Lots of ways to fix this. Your leather sounds fine.
 
element, The design of your sheath may need to be tweaked. If there is excess room at the mouth of the sheath allowing the knife to rock back and forth then, that could be a problem. Also I would suggest you redesign the sheath using a butterfly pattern or "split tip". This will more closely follow the blade shape and also provide a welt in the vulnerable area.

Call me if you need to discuss it more.

Paul
 
Perhaps placing U channel plastic molding inside. Can be ordered in various widths and thicknesses.. Heat to bend and shape to fit inside the center core or around blade.

Probably just need it where the blade comes in contact with the leather

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DON
 
Andy, this link is to a very short tutorial, and may be of some help to you. Also if you will give me your email address I'll send you some more pattern making information that will probably solve your problem. My email and other contact information is below in my sig line.

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41812&highlight=Paul+Long+tutorial

Be sure to look at and read each post in the thread as there is additional information after the photos.

Paul
 
That's good advice from Paul. The only knife that I've made a sheath for that had a ridiculously sharp tip (a hand made wharncliffe, I can't believe the tip hasn't snapped off of) was also my first butterfly sheath. Along with a proper welt and wet forming, the butterfly pattern allows the knife a very good fit.

Some of my sheaths are decidedly roomy, but a form fit on a seriously wicked tip is a good idea. You have a good welt that wraps around the entire end of the blade that way.

Far from my best sheath (it was my second) but this is an example.

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For more (better than mine!) examples of butterfly type sheaths look up Rick Lowes sheaths.
 
Just got back from a long show weekend, thanks all for the great info! Can't wait to study that tutorial and try the butterfly style.
Thanks, all for taking the time to reply!
Andy G.
 
Roselli uses a very good plastic insert in their sheaths. (The leather Roselli uses is pretty thin stuff so I re-make them with heavier leather using the original as a pattern, but keep the insert.) Does`t seem to mark the blade, although admittedly it would be pretty hard to tell with a Roselli anyway:o.
 
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