knife drawings how to

robino

robino

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Aug 11, 2011
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how do i put these drawings onto paper with exact dimensions?

i would like the hunter to have a 4.5" blade and the Bowie to have a 8.5" blade
what is the proper way to put these drawings on paper with exact dimensions, so that when i give them to a maker he could trace them directly onto his template?

as they were drawn, the dimensions are just eyeballed, in other words, the blade/grip as drawn might not be to scale(definitely not) or proportioned evenly

i-FR7QLDD-L.jpg
 
You have to draw it to scale in order to ensure that the proportions are what you will be happy with, and even with an exact tracing, it doesn't mean that that blades/handles will turn out exactly....unless there is CNC involved in every aspect of blade production and you use synthetic materials for the handle(unlikely for a custom 1-of-a- kind knife.

The integral is most likely going to be what it will be, rather than EXACTLY what you have drawn when you have something like it produced....4" on the blade length is going to be a guideline at best.

Using graph paper can be very helpful. Usually, when working with a scale drawing for a one-of-a-kind, a maker will spray the steel with adhesive and apply the drawing to the steel, and proceed.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
robino,
going with the proportions you have determined with the sketch and the 8.5 inches blade as a guideline your Bowie would look something like this
robino bowie.jpg
 

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STeven is correct on all counts.

I usually sketch new designs on a sketch pad with no dimensions and change/erase/modify/throw away until it just "looks right" to me. I may then measure the handle and/or blade length just to check proportions or i may go straight to a cardboard pattern. then, if the cardboard pattern "feels right", i then use it to scribe the pattern on the steel. Sometimes I grind all the way to the scribed profile; sometimes I stop short or change the profile as I grind it. It is a custom, after all; there is no rule saying you have to grind all the way to your line. :)

One way to get your sketch to the dimensions you want is to draw light lines on a blank sheet of paper, indicating handle length and blade length. then put your original drawing under that sheet, start by drawing the blade shape back to the blade/handle line, and then blend in the handle shape, rotating or sliding the original sketch as needed. This is the old-school, blood-and-guts way to do it; you can do the same thing with any graphics program but this is simple and works for me.

Tim's drawing above looks good, but it looks like the blade is about 1/4" to 3/8" too wide (to me, YMMV). These are things that you just have to work out in the design process.

Bottom line, if you are going to send a sketch that you did to a maker and say "i want you to make this knife", then your sketch needs to be 100% what you want and I'd still expect up to 1/4" variation in blade length or handle length.

hope this helps

randy
 
robino,

As others have said, one of the easiest ways to work is with tracing paper. Just keep altering the design until it looks and feels right. Take measurements off your drawing to get an idea of lengths and widths. Lay your hand across the handle section of the drawing to see if length is adequate and finger contours fall in the right place etc. I draw by hand and use graphics programs to aid in sizing and alterations. Even if just sketched by hand I still like to scan it into the computer so I can print it out at different sizes as necessary. Below is a tracing of your drawings scaled to the sizes you noted. You can see that the second knife may need the handle lengthened. A sketch or drawing is a great place to start but don't stop with just a good idea. Take the time to massage and tweak the details. Unless there is an artistic reason for having a certain kink or misalignment in lines make sure that blade edge lines are smooth, graceful and fluid. Make sure that the spine line flows into the top of the handle (examine your bowie drawing) and that there is a functional but aesthetically pleasing contour to the handle. Watch for odd angles in the transition between the forward bottom edge of the handle and the back of the guard. That area needs to be comfortable. Also make sure the lower guard is long enough to be useful. Some of your guards seem a bit abbreviated. You are off to a great start but remember, the devil is in the details. If you are going to have someone else make the knives for you don't assume they will "know what you meant". Make sure the design is as perfect as it can be and that you have gone over every detail (think Spinal Tap. The band draws a sketch on a napkin of a stage prop they want built of Stonehenge. They want it 14 feet high but the napkin says 14", you get the idea). Good luck and keep posting your progress.


 
Something I have done in the past is to use the scale settings on a photo copier to enlarge something to the size I want. With It only took a couple tries and then you have your hard copy template to make further copies etc.. :p
 
You guys are awesome.
Thanks to all who commented, i especially like i4Mark's putting the drawings into real sizes.
Off the bat it looks like the first hunter needs a longer grip while the last one looks a tad too long. I think somewhere in between 5-5.25" should be right. The Bowie looks just right dimensionally speaking.

Ergonomics i will leave up to the maker as my drawings are just an idea of the style of grip i would want.

As far as the spine line not flowing into the guard/grip evenly (it's too high) it wasn't intentional, it was just a quick sketch. Obviously i would need to address these small "kinks" before giving the project to someone
 
You guys are awesome.
Thanks to all who commented, i especially like i4Mark's putting the drawings into real sizes.
Off the bat it looks like the first hunter needs a longer grip while the last one looks a tad too long. I think somewhere in between 5-5.25" should be right. The Bowie looks just right dimensionally speaking.

Ergonomics i will leave up to the maker as my drawings are just an idea of the style of grip i would want.

As far as the spine line not flowing into the guard/grip evenly (it's too high) it wasn't intentional, it was just a quick sketch. Obviously i would need to address these small "kinks" before giving the project to someone
 
robino,

The "kinks" I was referring to was concerning the graceful line of the cutting edge. On a blade style like a Tanto you will have a very purposeful abrupt change in direction towards the tip where the cutting edge sweeps upward to the tip. Some folks prefer, that is, make a conscious decision to have a long straight edge along the bottom of a bowie then the belly of the edge happens in a relatively short distance by the tip. Others like a longer sweeping radius to the edge. On many tactical folders you will see very angular lines for the edge. In all these cases the line the edge takes is based on the style of blade, the expected use of the blade as well as the personal preferences of the makers. If your blade edge moves down from the tip in a fairly straight path then bends quickly toward the guard and then moves up then down again, or whatever, that's fine.....if that's what you want. That is what I mean by "kinks". The line of the cutting edge is very important to the look of the knife. Show it some love. I hope you realize nobody is criticizing anything about your designs. We're just giving you some things to keep in mind as you go through the process. Only you can say whether any given aspect of your design is right. Of course "the process" goes hand in hand with designing a custom knife. You actually have control over what shape, material and finish every part of your knife is. So be involved in every step and make sure you get exactly what you want in the end. That is the beauty of doing custom work.
 
What I have been doing while messing around is to draw it out on paper. Then I cut it out with scissors when I have one I like and transfer it to a piece of cardboard and cut out the cardboard.

That way you have something semi rigid you can hold in you hand.
 
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