Knife Handle Oil

M

MrFlea

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Jun 29, 2020
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Hey, so i'm a 16 year old blade smith and i've been making knives for 3 years now. Im finally getting better but i have a problem. Since i can remember i always had sweaty palms for no reason other than i do. But what this would do is it will make my handles supper dirty looking, ill have a oak handle look like walnut in a hour of use. So i tried oils and non really worked. I used Danish Oil from home depot and it didn't work on one knife and it decently worked on other (both are oak). But now i want to buy a 80crv2 bar and some very nice exotic wood and i don't want to have a ugly handle, i want something i can show with pride. So whats a good oil? I don't want danish oil because it seems ill always get them dirty, boiled linseed seems to only pop out the wood but doesn't seem to protect it and appears to take forever to dry, lin speed looks like my best option (i can be very impatient), so has anyone dealt with this problem and if so or not what is your recommendation.
 
Perhaps try wearing rubber gloves of the kind sold everywhere these days? If it's any conciliation the sweaty hands will probably get better in a couple of years. I had damp hands when working also in my teenage years. Good luck.
 
Yeah i understand but i dont want to wear gloves every time i use my knives. It ruins the experience for me and i love the feeling of wood on my palm. What i want to know is there a really good oil that seals the wood from moisture and sweat and gives it a nice natural look or am i asking for too much?
 
I'd advise you to make little test samples of wood and test different kinds of oils, to see which one you like best.

Ballistol is very effective, but it really impacts the look and colour, for example. Some people like it, some people hate it. This way you can find it out which one you like the most.
 
Lodd said:
I'd advise you to make little test samples of wood and test different kinds of oils, to see which one you like best.

Ballistol is very effective, but it really impacts the look and colour, for example. Some people like it, some people hate it. This way you can find it out which one you like the most.
Click to expand...

I think this is a good place to start . I think maybe try some bees wax as well .
Experimenting is a good way to learn and find out what's best for you.:)
 
I have sweaty hands, and in my experience it’s not the sweat but the dirt That causes the stains.

I’d have to wear gloves while working with the wood handle. Then I’d use mineral oil to seal it. Then I’d be able to use it as long as I kept my hands relatively clean.
 
Why not use stabilized wood ? The feeling in hand is not that different from natural wood (for dense woods like ebony, ironwood, cocobolo,...). Bees wax is another way of sealing off the wood's porosity. Not as effective but it works (I don't like the sticky feeling, though). Natural oak is especially tricky because it contains a lot of tanins : it will react easily with any oxydant (water, sweat, blood,...). It will acquire an even patina over time. I admit that, in the beginning, it just looks dirty.
Here under one of my kitchen knives set. The two at the bottom have natural white oak handles. Very sensitive. When they start to look dirty (despite the washing and rubbing), I sand them lightly with extra fine grit paper, wash them again, let them thoroughly dry and apply some tea seed oil (camelia oil). They are starting to yellow up a bit.
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Notice how the petty knife's handle (bottom) looks a bit grey sprinkled ? Dirt is setting into the pores. A sanding is due. I may add some waxing, just to see how it works. On a side note, this is Tojiro's most affordable traditional offering. So, the white oak comes quite roughly finished. I will add a quote from a knife maker who's making wonderful knives and uses all kinds of precious woods : "oiling the wood and sanding while the wood is still wet, seals the pores with oil and fine dust. It adds a layer of mechanical protection to the wood."
 
Stabilized wood.
Tru Oil finish (about 10-12 coats)
Buff the finish, then a couple coats of high quality car wax (liquid, not paste)
 
Ive seen some makers cover the handles with several coats of superglue. Put a coat on, let dry, repeat a few times to build it up. Then gently sand so you dont go through the glue. Glasslike, ultra smooth finish that shows up the woodgrain.

Its not something i have tried myself (yet) and you would have to be very careful of course, and do it in a ventilated area.....but it might be worth trying it out on a scrap piece of timber.

If anyone knows if its viable id be interested to know myself.

As for the clammy hands. That will eventually go as you get older i think. It did for a friend of mine who suffered badly with it.
 
I use tung oil on my wooden knife handles (also works with axes, paddles). Lasts longer than linseed oil and stands up to wet better IMHO.
 
A few woodworking oils that I use in woodworking that provide excellent protection from soiling (I agree that danish oil does not do that well) and really bring out the best of the wood grain are:

WATERLOX (the ORIGINAL Sealer Finish) & MONOCOAT.

MONOCOAT is by far my favorite. Also the most expensive BUT goes a long way. It is a MONO (ONE) coat finish. Originally intended for floors but I use it on furniture. It is a 2 part - 3 oil/1 catalyst - that goes on easily and dries fast and durable and smells great.

WATERLOX is probably the hardest tung oil finish. A superb finish for table tops or bar tops or knife handles. Work time is longer than for the Monocoat and ideally requires more coats - no less than 2 or 3 for a knife handle, as many as 12 for furniture. Less expensive though and more readily available.

Monocoat used here on this knife handle made of antler, birchbark and teak - including on the antler.
 
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I agree with the recommendation for stabilized wood. Another option would be dymondwood or a synthetic handle material that is stain resistant and easy to scrub off. Oak is a very porous wood and most likely needs to be stabilized or otherwise sealed with a finish that hardens instead of just oil that soaks into the wood.
 
This might sound weird, but a co-worker told me her teenage son has very sweaty feet.
Her doctor's advice was quite simple and effective...he now uses spray-on antiperspirant deodorant on the bottom of his feet.
Maybe that would work for your hands as well?
 
Alberta Ed said:
I use tung oil on my wooden knife handles (also works with axes, paddles). Lasts longer than linseed oil and stands up to wet better IMHO.
Click to expand...

I second pure tung oil, excellent stuff all around.

Need to be careful, most stores seem to only sell the kind cut with thinners :( which is NOT nearly as good imho
(you can get dry faster, but the trade off is not worth it)
 
you can also try lemon oil treatment for the wood. Many knifemakers loved the old Formby's Lemon oil treatment (good for stag too). It's discontinued but can be found on eb*y
 
I see this thread is a month old. Hopefully, MrFlea has figured out an answer, or is still monitoring the thread. Polymerized tung oil is my go-to finish for wood projects. It goes on easily, dries quickly and can build up a nice finish with a few coats. I use boiled linseed oil on garden tools. But I'm not sure why. Probably because my dad did, and I have a can that isn't used up.

I sealed and finished our kitchen countertop with WaterLox. Put on thick, according to directions, it's glossy. Rubbed on with a rag, it's more semi-matte. It really seals the wood and seems impervious to water, vinegar and alcohol. But strong bases, like baking soda, stain it almost immediately. And it takes forever to dry.

Toe Cutter beat me to it. For small projects like knife handles, I'd start with Birchwood Casey Tru Oil. I've heard its a blend of tung and linseed oil. Not sure. But it's given a lot of folks excellent results on gun stocks. Rub it in with a rag, let it dry. Repeat. Keep the coats thin.

Try different woods. Oak is nice. But it's got an open grain and does absorb liquids and stain. Maybe try a wood with a closed grain like maple or cherry. Walnut and rosewood have been popular for handgun grips for years for a reason.

Let us see some of your work!
 
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Tru oil would give you a nice finish that builds up to protect the wood. Its used for gun stocks, and it can be put on lightly for a more natural finish or heavily for a plasticky "shell" thatll protect the wood completely.
You could also wrap the handles in saran wrap or something while you work on them.
 
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