Photos Knife Photos with Easy/Cheap Set Up

This has been around for a while, gaining some pretty good reviews, and recommendations as great value.

Ruike P801-SF
51311419760_9c0b6a2d45_o.jpg


51310617723_e8eb68842a_o.jpg


Size:
51311142444_633f695a45_o.jpg


51311142454_169f3d1d5a_o.jpg


Frame-lock, Sandvik 14C28N steel (58-60HRC), all steel handles of 420 stainless (some places say 3Cr14N), stonewash finish, ball bearing pivot.

Frame lock up is almost perfect:
51309676727_d75ff16a56_o.jpg


as is the centering when closed:
51310419226_d91550bff3_o.jpg


The action is "unbelievable" - almost like it's spring assisted - the blade just flies open, and it drops shut.
Did a video just to show this:

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Another knife with really good action.
Sitivien ST-102 (UNassisted flipper) - relatively recent, now pretty popular on YouTube -

51323895430_a25f441de1_o.jpg

G-10 scales in jade color.

51322901746_be77e503d6_o.jpg

D2 steel

Size: open
51323102023_c18d8208a9_o.jpg


closed -
51323102043_e0c38c9471_o.jpg

deep pocket clip, but only one position.

blade centering is really good -
51322901761_c9c684a575_o.jpg


lock-up -

barely just fully on the tang - I was concerned enough that I did several spine whacks - no hint of failing, and checking YouTube all of the ones I saw had the same lock-up.
51323101968_978d21889d_o.jpg

This pale green/jade would not be my normal choice - but it is translucent - which makes it attractive to my eyes:
51322162307_22e554f47e_o.jpg


close-up of handle scales -
51323617314_edfc2cea77_o.jpg

look carefully at the texturing, and the liner (lightened with holes) show through the translucent jade G-10 scales.

Not only is it attractive to my eyes, its action is just unbelievable: opening, and drop shut -

All for about US$25!!

EDIT to ADD (Aug/10/2021) -
This was in one of the listings for the ST102 on AliExpress:
JUFULE hired Alexey Sitivien to make this new brand original design knife,100% real D2.After JUFULE color box packaging and quality testing, more suitable for resell, drophip.

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Your knives look great on a black background. As a person engaged in photography and photoshop, I can notice the excellent quality of the photo. You probably processed these photos in Photoshop, right? I just recently started studying this in more detail. I'm interested in finding out how you can get such high-quality images. A couple of years ago, I decided to order in this service photorelive.com, processing and adding some effects for my guns. And I liked it so much that I have already started doing photos and all this business. If anything, please get in touch with me about photo processing.
 
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This tutorial is pretty damn amazing, thank you!
Thank you very much, most kind.

Just a slight caveat: some of the photos are now taken on another camera.

Had been using FujiFilm X-M1 - an APS-C mirrorless camera:
49775170223_cfb32660a7_o.jpg

with that LCD viewfinder/magnifier. It really still is my preferred camera for this type of photography.

Some of the more recent photos have been taken with a Panasonic FZ80 -
51341482768_9f16674155_o.jpg

Note: not my photo (taken off the web and re-hosted)

Had been using this while confined to my neighborhood, for flowers and wildlife during the pandemic -
I also post on a photo forum - being lazy - I tried knife photography with it, to be able to post in both places.
(note: all knife photos have EXIF metadata using a browser EXIF add-on, one can see the camera used)

Now there's a HUGE warning: The Panasonic FZ80 is a superzoom -
it has a "ridiculous" zoom range of the equiv of 20mm (ludicrous) ultra-wide
to a (breathtakingly) long telephoto of 1200mm.
BUT to achieve this, it has to use a tiny, tiny (repeated) sensor of 1/2.3"
(a lot of cell phone now have larger sensors).
[1/2.3" is 1/12 of APS-C]

Tiny sensors mean very high noise ratio, in comparison to larger sensor cameras -
not only that the FZ80 gets a lot of negativity over at the photo forum.

Personally, I probably would NOT recommend using any camera with such a tiny 1/2.3" sensor. 😳

So it's a challenge to be able to use it in such demanding circumstances....


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Was real impressed with the Sitivien ST-102, post #62 above - and surprised I chose the pale green translucent "jade" G10 scales.

Eafengrow EF41 -
51343096299_be1ebfc9bb_o.jpg


51342579243_4fbfd4731b_o.jpg


Another translucent "jade" G10 handle.

Also in D2, steel, but the blade has a compound grind:
51342579273_a62746e671_o.jpg

Flat ground at the tip, to reinforce/make it stronger - then hollow ground to keep it thin behind the edge.

Size, open:

51341635752_bf9fd04bb2_o.jpg


Closed:
51343096319_d19ab48464_o.jpg


Lock:
51343096289_190ab11c59_o.jpg


Centering:
51342352876_3ce8d9e447_o.jpg

centering is great -
just as well, because the pivot bolt head:
51341635737_d8d221af2b_o.jpg

although looks adjustable - but with what tool?

EDIT to ADD (Aug/10/2021) -
=================
Unsurprisingly the pivot eventually became loose and induced blade play, but I did not have a suitable tool to adjust the pivot screw.

Found by using the cuff of a common kitchen rubber glove, and my thumb I could tighten the pivot screw.
By sight, blade centering shows the amount to tighten. Of course this is not as workable as an actual adjustment tool.

Of course the pivot screw worked loose again within a day.

Using the rubber glove method removed the pivot bolt entirely - cleaned with alcohol - allowed to dry, then applied some blue Loctite.
Tightened by eye for blade centering (did also have to use the rubber glove on the other side (pinch) to stop the entire assembly from rotating)
and checked there was no play, and will drop shut. Allowing 24 hours to fully cure.
=================

Other interesting point is the lanyard hole:
51343368085_ab90c38aa6_o.jpg

is part of the G10 spacer.

The compound blade grind reminded me of the Kershaw Hinderer Thermite (3880) "Spanto" point (post #15 )
51344341960_19dbc63065_o.jpg


Compound grind blades:
51343322241_030e131216_o.jpg

Blades - choil to tip the EF41 and the Thermite are the same length - but look at how much longer the handle is on the Kershaw.

Below is pure speculation/guesswork. About a year ago a Chinese brand became popular because it was inexpensive and boasted D2 steel blades with ball bearing pivots. With the unfortunatley chosen name of Doom Blade: this brought many doubts and derision about "Chinese D2" - including a YouTube video that claimed their friend tested the steel and found it was "5Cr" or some such...

Now some months later there seems to be several Chinese brand D2 steel blade folders - including some like the Sitivien ST102 with very high quality action, I would go as far to venture that it is the best action opening and drop shut I have (I've had two samples and they were the same), and the CJRB Feldspar tested by many, including Cedric & Ada on YouTube who found its D2 was only second to Bob Dozier's.

Just looking at the logos - might have some "family" resemblance - and there are some Doom Blade models that look like some Eafengrow models (and I have heard Eafengrow and CH knives come from the same factory - some Eafengrow knives actually have their model with CH)
51343322201_de43d20fdc_o.jpg


please remember this is just speculation/guesswork.

EDIT to ADD (Aug/10/2021) -
========================
There may be more than just my speculation/guesswork re: common maker for these Chinese D2 ball-bearing knives:
This image was from an AliExpress listing for the Sitivien ST102 (see post #62 above)
51370566389_a306a516d9_o.jpg

=============================

This Eafengrow EF41 did not have great action - the drop shut was fantastic - but the all important flip open was not reliable. It works but does not fly open like the Sitivien ST102 or the Ruike P801-SF - but then I am spoiled by those two - they are quite exceptional (that's why I did the videos)
51343368075_c3f52a3ff5_o.jpg


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Eye popping....
51356508049_a3a9335c7a_o.jpg


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VG10 core, "damascus" clad, abalone shell scales.

Size, open:
51356788075_f1484b5e94_o.jpg


closed:
51355770621_da08843057_o.jpg


looking carefully at previous shot - the abalone shell is "veneer" under thick resin - this makes it durable, although also makes it slightly thick:
51358583157_c10a46fb51_o.jpg


compared with the (small) Mcusta 113D "Tsuchi" (link):
51355998878_51bf4bc3c4_o.jpg

some have found the Mcusta small tsuchi (MC113D) hard to open with its thumb stud, no problem with this abalone folder - it glides open.
although on my sample of one:
51368432921_4fa0e2c017_o.jpg

due to play in the ball bearing detent - the very sharp tip is exposed if not closed fully.

Liner lock up:

51356788145_cd02d201f5_o.jpg


blade centering:
51355028452_cd61161cba_o.jpg

this, and the tang in the previous shot, show the sandwiched (san mai) construction.

fileworked back/spine:
51356788030_aa32f8da81_o.jpg


close up of ("damascus" clad) blade:
51359553563_94cc611e7b_o.jpg


51359331736_76b7829634_o.jpg


51416521928_4c1e3b1545_o.jpg

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and of course:
51356507949_d67227775b_o.jpg


51356508019_40f3ca9d4c_o.jpg

51417389912_9f87f25584_o.jpg


I have seen different offerings of this seemingly same knife marked IKIV, and named/branded as: NedFoss, ALBATROSS. Mine was sold as CH Knives, model: CSDM103B (on AliExpress)

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.... As a person engaged in photography and photoshop, I can notice the excellent quality of the photo. You probably processed these photos in Photoshop, right? I just recently started studying this in more detail. I'm interested in finding out how you can get such high-quality images. A couple of years ago, I decided to order in this service photorelive.com, processing and adding some effects for my guns. And I liked it so much that I have already started doing photos and all this business. If anything, please get in touch with me about photo processing.
Did not see your edit until just now - even though I am subscribed to this thread - it only notifies me of new posts (not edits to posts).

I do not use actual Adobe PhotoShop (or variants) - it was too expensive costing more than some of my cameras. The current subscription model - may seem low cost on a monthly basis - is way too much of a slippery slope, and will cost a fortune in the long run.....

My editor is old (no longer updated) PhotoImpact X3
even if it does not have the bells and whistles of PhotoShop, it suits the way I work.

My processing is very simple, first rule is to get the photo I take to be as close to the way I see it (ie: I don't take the pic unless I see the image as I want it in the viewfinder/lcd screen)
may require re-shoots, so there is almost no need for corrections in post-processing.

Post-processing is basically to enhance and present the image as pre-visualized.

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kind of a bargain?
51393772058_1441eca280_o.jpg

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brand: edcFans - (claimed) 440C blade; carbon fiber on G10; IKBS ball bearing pivot; blue anodized hardware.... very inexpensive from Amazon (hence the doubt about the steel being actual 440C).
Blade finish is fairly coarse. Scales are chamfered, but the G10 has a grooved finish - which may look crude - is not uncomfortable and actually aids gripe.

Size -
Open:
51392743672_ccef5a90f1_o.jpg


Closed:
51393511376_67d6180b12_o.jpg

Lanyard hole just a hole in the exposed liner, again crude, but effective.

Lock:
51394520490_5758fd26fe_o.jpg


Centering:
51392743682_331d02403b_o.jpg


Detail of carbon fiber and G10 base:
51396234710_8e6a1b0097_o.jpg

I like this knife a lot - the action is great, positive flip open, and will nicely drop shut - seems a lot of the inexpensive Chinese flippers now have ball bearing pivots and will do this.


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Vincent
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51493848477_16234be82a_o.jpg


Interesting (inexpensive) knife - Brand: DuraTech, G10 handle, 8Cr13MoV steel, ball bearing pivot.

Size:
Open -
51495574500_4e073635aa_o.jpg

Closed -
51495574485_868d5fbe90_o.jpg


Liner lock -
51494868218_52ce66b151_o.jpg


Centering -
51494649946_0bcc3fb0ae_o.jpg


Open back -
51493848467_3fa1730d56_o.jpg


Can just make out the prominent ball bearing detent. Keeps the blade shut, but more importantly gets lots of resistance to load up the pressure, so when the blade is released using the flipper - it really flies out. It's a bit over done, requires conscientious effort to flip - but it has not failed to flip out fully. Another slight quibble is on closing the blade the detent does "get in the way", so have to keep pressure on the liner until the tang passes the detent.

51494868158_ab012ce63c_o.jpg

51495574610_4d883dd2cd_o.jpg


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Pretty d@rned sharp...
51752351262_dcca5a7495_o.jpg

Ti CF - ball bearing flipper (other two are slip joints - may not be quite as disadvantageous as it may seem... see Post #75 )
51753177081_eff60f8b35_o.jpg


Frame-lock
51753411183_d94487de39_o.jpg

Take note of that "extra" Torx screw head on the lock bar (later)

Size Open -
51753820434_4902b24a0f_o.jpg

Closed -
51753177116_492c341442_o.jpg

They are small/tiny

It really is just a folding scalpel handle -the blade is replaceable -
51754869781_c67647cf26_o.jpg

Where I bought this: came with 10 spare blades. These are #24 scalpel blades - but any #2x series will fit this #"4" handle. (See: Scalpels on Wikipedia (link))

Lock up -
51754050080_e1bb8b6aa8_o.jpg


Good attention to detail: lock bar - titanium does not make contact - instead there is a steel plate (held by that "extra" Torx screw) holding the ball detent, and protrudes making contact for the lock.
51753411153_eca38f4a74_o.jpg


Wait! there's more...😜
Look carefully at the screw end, the plate extends further inward forming a lock bar stop - to me this is more elegant and cleverer than any lock-bar stops I've seen....
Can just make it out in this photo:
51752761367_58f5419bc5_o.jpg


To me, this is a tour de force.....

The inset of carbon fiber is very attractive too - as varying angles makes it look hologram like -
51752351222_ab77039a70_o.jpg


I'll look at the other two in my next post (see Post #75 ).

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great stuff, thank you its very helpful.

also, aluminum foil balls are a a great micro adjustable stand, if you don't have silly putty
 
great stuff, thank you its very helpful.

also, aluminum foil balls are a a great micro adjustable stand, if you don't have silly putty
Thank you for your kindness.

Aluminum foil balls is a good hint - I often just use screwed up pieces of paper - Blu-Tack gets used to stop things rolling.

Thanks.

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part 2 of scalpel knives - here are the other two - slip-joints (no lock)
51702293897_ffb8176f06_o.jpg

These actually are two different scalpel sizes - #24 as the previous Ti CF flipper (see Post #72 ) - the other is #11 - a smaller series/family that fits a #"3" handle - this can easily be seen in the photo of the scalpel blade "slot". (See: Scalpels on Wikipedia (link))

#24 slip-joint - dual color/multi-layered G10 handle -
51703977510_fe2b1bf91c_o.jpg


back -
51703977530_328b3f620d_o.jpg


Smaller #11 scalpel - black G10 handle -
51703763999_9485dd19bb_o.jpg


back -
51703373488_11ea7f693d_o.jpg


Size Open -
51703089676_f72f2388e8_o.jpg


size closed -
51703977550_3dde574b09_o.jpg

These are small/tiny - especially the #11 size -
like the previous Ti CF flipper version - these also came with 10 spare blades each -
51755513254_5186f96667_o.jpg

For me, the #11 version although great being so tiny - can be really awkward changing the blade, not impossible, but I much, much prefer using a small pair of pliers to remove and install the #11 blade.

I like the multi-alternate layered G10 on the #24 size orange-brown/black version
51703763979_4464ffa507_o.jpg


Slip-joints without locks may at first sight seem to be disadvantaged vs. the "tour de force" Ti CF flipper - but these are so small - that flipping is fiddly and one has to be so careful not to get anything in the way of the blade that flies out - in other words, no mindless fidget flipping, and for me it is a conscious effort to flip it.

Slip-joint tangs -
51703373428_344ff4047b_o.jpg

The smaller #11 has a squared off tang - that makes opening/closing with definite stops - very confidence inspiring.
The larger #24 tang is barely rounded - again opening/closing feels very deliberate.

I really like and admire the Ti CF flipper in its attention to detail going as far as calling it a "tour de force" (see Post #72 above)-
BUT these slip-joints (without locks) are as practical and useful.... and they are substantially cheaper!
51703763974_061ae5bb9d_o.jpg

EDIT to ADD -

Just an observation - I have a hobby knife (X-Acto, Excel type) sitting with my pens on my desk for years - and when using it the other day I noticed it had a mark on the blade - 11 -
51799431311_1aacbaeb07_o.jpg


similar, but not the same:
51798487452_ee402e2021_o.jpg


Looking at the X-Acto blade catalog - there are some (but not all) blades that look similar to scalpels.

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51828065649_50f4dab33c_o.jpg

David Boye famous 2" dropped edge - Dendritic 440C - cocobolo handle
(note the Boye marking - it is a Boye-made knife - he stopped making these knives in the early 2000's to concentrate on his Dendritic Cobalt boat knives)

Is this a big deal?
- well many knife makers think he is:
51834894581_10708be76d_o.jpg

His legendary book... I was at his table in the 90's at an Eastcoast Knife Show and numerous knifemakers stopped by just to say "thank you" to him for getting them started from this book....
Where I bought this knife from him.

51828065654_e6cbe3a227_o.jpg


I placed an order for this:
51828444965_17a8bff7db_o.jpg

David Boye - 2" dropped edge Dendritic 440C stabilized curly maple burl handle - turquoise, brass and black fiber rings
Francine (Martin/Larstein) etched - who did all the etching in the book.

51826775667_916e84f873_o.jpg

again note the Boye-mark - this is flat ground vs the hollow grind of the previous knife.

Size:
51834892761_04061acb51_o.jpg


Sheaths -
51834892741_415726fc75_o.jpg

I asked him to autograph the sheath....

One of my old posts about David Boye and Francine - Post #12
(the fairy tale was Chronicles of Narnia - Photos of the knives )

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