- Joined
- Nov 1, 1998
- Messages
- 61
This is partially about a knife I recently purchased, but also partially about buying knives. I'm describing a knife, but also describing how I used some quality criteria set out by some folks MUCH more knowledgeable than I am. But I'm getting better! And reviews like this are one of the WAYS I'm getting better. Try it - you'll be surprised at how much you learn by doing something like this!
Knife Review - Johnny Stout 'Aristocrat' damascus fancy folder, purchased at the Las Vegas Classic Knife Show, 7 Feb 1999.
See at http://www.concentric.net/~jlstout/gallery.htm
Johnny's description:
The Aristocrat. A fancy Mastodon handled gentlemens folder with a 3 inch Damascus blade and Mokume bolsters. Dressed with a fileworked raised Titanium back spacer and built with anodized and jeweled Titanium frame and lock. Ideal for everyday carry, or to enhance that existing collection.
The only difference between this description and my knife is that my knife has damascus bolsters. Also, anyone who uses this knife for everyday carry has far, far different sensitivities than I do. Yes, I could use Irish linen as Kleenex. But I don't.
This knife is a liner-lock with a pretty conventionally-shaped drop-point blade in a conventionally-shaped handle. The design is conventional because it's clearly functional, but oh, my, what he did in craftsmanship on this knife must be seen to be fully appreciated. But I'll try to describe it anyway.
First the basics: The blade is 2.938 inches, with an overall length of 6.854 inches. This gives a blade-to-handle ratio of 75% (more on this later). The blade is of Devin Thomas high-contrast 1095/nickel damascus. The bolsters and spacer are Stout-made damascus, 1084/L6. The blade and the bolsters were etched with ferric chloride, and the blade contrast is really beautiful - very clear swirls, loops, and ellipses. The bolsters are slant-cut, from 3/4 " (top) to 1 1/4 " (bottom), with a decorative symmetrical slanted groove on the off-pivot side. The liners are deep purple anodized titanium, jeweled surface, visible front and back. The liner is milled at the point where you apply pressure to close the knife. The spacer is fully file-worked in a vine-and-thorn pattern. The scales are of ivory-colored mottled mammoth ivory. There is a right-hand thumb-stud, milled, and capped with a 3 mm ruby. The bolster on the stud-side has a slight ground concavity to make opening easy. The serial number is #719, which might mean this is the number of knives Johnny has made. The blade was hollow-ground on an 8" contact wheel, giving it a rather broad curve. It also comes with a very nice (leather? Vinyl?) zippered case with a fleece liner.
Now the intangibles. I'm going to discuss some things that I've tried with some of my other knives, sometimes with some disappointment. You might try some of these on some of your favorites. But then again, you may NOT wish to try this at home!
The knife opens up like it wants to. When it's closed, I can't shake it open (no gravity-knife - but I was surprised when I found how many of my OTHER knives I could partially open that way). When it's open it stays open - I gave it some pretty good whacks on the back, a' la' A. T. Barr liner-lock tests from rec.knives newsgroup.
When you swing the blade open very slowly using your fingers at the tip, it's totally smooth - no changes in pressure until you get very near the lock, no scratching or roughness at all. When the blade is fully open, there isn't any side-play on the blade. Now try taking the liner pressure off and try for side-play. This knife STILL doesn't twitch. Now bring it halfway closed and try for side-play. Still none here. And when the knife's closed, it is FULLY enclosed - you expect the tip to be covered, but check a few of your knives. You'll probably find a few where part of the pivot-side of the blade is exposed (I did).
The scales are not the same thickness from front to rear - there's a pronounced swell at the tip away from the bolsters, swelling from 11.3 mm near the bolsters to 13.5 mm at the tip. Although they are not of uniform thickness, they are symmetrical. I don't know if this was done to make it feel better in the hand, but it sure does feel like it was made for my hand.
Earlier I mentioned the blade-to-handle ratio. Johnny clued me in to yet another folder criteria. I'm sure you've seen knives that seem somewhat mis-proportioned, where the blade just seems too short for the handle. Johnny Stout suggested that I divide the blade length by the handle length. For a knife in the 6 to 7 inch total length range, under 70% is poor, 70 to 75% is good, over 75% is very good, and over 80% is outstanding. Note that a higher ratio is much easier with a large knife - the best ratio of any knife I have is from the Cold Steel Vaquero Grande, with an overall length of 13.4 inches. And none of my knives with a total length under 6" even get to 70% (but a very elegant short A. T. Barr got to 69.8%!). Also, several of my knives that did have pretty good ratios 'cheated' by exposing part of the pivot-side of the blade.
As I learn more about knives, I find I judge them quite differently than I did earlier in my education. Look at the judgement criteria written by the experts - from Darrel Ralph criteria at http://is.dal.ca/~totalgsd/tkc-l/checklist.html, and, if you're looking at liner-locks, look at the FAQ from rec.knives, at http://www.bladeforums.com/reviews/faqllock.html among other places. But DON'T just glance at them and than go to a show. Print them out and USE THEM ON YOUR OWN KNIVES, to see how they REALLY work (you may be somewhat disappointed in some of your old favorites - I know I was). Get one of the cheapie plastic micrometers, or at least a decent ruler, and a 10-power magnifier. THEN you can go to the show, forewarned and forearmed. Some of the better knifemakers out there will appreciate a knowledgeable buyer. And some of the 'other' knifemakers won't.
------------------
Knife Review - Johnny Stout 'Aristocrat' damascus fancy folder, purchased at the Las Vegas Classic Knife Show, 7 Feb 1999.
See at http://www.concentric.net/~jlstout/gallery.htm
Johnny's description:
The Aristocrat. A fancy Mastodon handled gentlemens folder with a 3 inch Damascus blade and Mokume bolsters. Dressed with a fileworked raised Titanium back spacer and built with anodized and jeweled Titanium frame and lock. Ideal for everyday carry, or to enhance that existing collection.
The only difference between this description and my knife is that my knife has damascus bolsters. Also, anyone who uses this knife for everyday carry has far, far different sensitivities than I do. Yes, I could use Irish linen as Kleenex. But I don't.
This knife is a liner-lock with a pretty conventionally-shaped drop-point blade in a conventionally-shaped handle. The design is conventional because it's clearly functional, but oh, my, what he did in craftsmanship on this knife must be seen to be fully appreciated. But I'll try to describe it anyway.
First the basics: The blade is 2.938 inches, with an overall length of 6.854 inches. This gives a blade-to-handle ratio of 75% (more on this later). The blade is of Devin Thomas high-contrast 1095/nickel damascus. The bolsters and spacer are Stout-made damascus, 1084/L6. The blade and the bolsters were etched with ferric chloride, and the blade contrast is really beautiful - very clear swirls, loops, and ellipses. The bolsters are slant-cut, from 3/4 " (top) to 1 1/4 " (bottom), with a decorative symmetrical slanted groove on the off-pivot side. The liners are deep purple anodized titanium, jeweled surface, visible front and back. The liner is milled at the point where you apply pressure to close the knife. The spacer is fully file-worked in a vine-and-thorn pattern. The scales are of ivory-colored mottled mammoth ivory. There is a right-hand thumb-stud, milled, and capped with a 3 mm ruby. The bolster on the stud-side has a slight ground concavity to make opening easy. The serial number is #719, which might mean this is the number of knives Johnny has made. The blade was hollow-ground on an 8" contact wheel, giving it a rather broad curve. It also comes with a very nice (leather? Vinyl?) zippered case with a fleece liner.
Now the intangibles. I'm going to discuss some things that I've tried with some of my other knives, sometimes with some disappointment. You might try some of these on some of your favorites. But then again, you may NOT wish to try this at home!
The knife opens up like it wants to. When it's closed, I can't shake it open (no gravity-knife - but I was surprised when I found how many of my OTHER knives I could partially open that way). When it's open it stays open - I gave it some pretty good whacks on the back, a' la' A. T. Barr liner-lock tests from rec.knives newsgroup.
When you swing the blade open very slowly using your fingers at the tip, it's totally smooth - no changes in pressure until you get very near the lock, no scratching or roughness at all. When the blade is fully open, there isn't any side-play on the blade. Now try taking the liner pressure off and try for side-play. This knife STILL doesn't twitch. Now bring it halfway closed and try for side-play. Still none here. And when the knife's closed, it is FULLY enclosed - you expect the tip to be covered, but check a few of your knives. You'll probably find a few where part of the pivot-side of the blade is exposed (I did).
The scales are not the same thickness from front to rear - there's a pronounced swell at the tip away from the bolsters, swelling from 11.3 mm near the bolsters to 13.5 mm at the tip. Although they are not of uniform thickness, they are symmetrical. I don't know if this was done to make it feel better in the hand, but it sure does feel like it was made for my hand.
Earlier I mentioned the blade-to-handle ratio. Johnny clued me in to yet another folder criteria. I'm sure you've seen knives that seem somewhat mis-proportioned, where the blade just seems too short for the handle. Johnny Stout suggested that I divide the blade length by the handle length. For a knife in the 6 to 7 inch total length range, under 70% is poor, 70 to 75% is good, over 75% is very good, and over 80% is outstanding. Note that a higher ratio is much easier with a large knife - the best ratio of any knife I have is from the Cold Steel Vaquero Grande, with an overall length of 13.4 inches. And none of my knives with a total length under 6" even get to 70% (but a very elegant short A. T. Barr got to 69.8%!). Also, several of my knives that did have pretty good ratios 'cheated' by exposing part of the pivot-side of the blade.
As I learn more about knives, I find I judge them quite differently than I did earlier in my education. Look at the judgement criteria written by the experts - from Darrel Ralph criteria at http://is.dal.ca/~totalgsd/tkc-l/checklist.html, and, if you're looking at liner-locks, look at the FAQ from rec.knives, at http://www.bladeforums.com/reviews/faqllock.html among other places. But DON'T just glance at them and than go to a show. Print them out and USE THEM ON YOUR OWN KNIVES, to see how they REALLY work (you may be somewhat disappointed in some of your old favorites - I know I was). Get one of the cheapie plastic micrometers, or at least a decent ruler, and a 10-power magnifier. THEN you can go to the show, forewarned and forearmed. Some of the better knifemakers out there will appreciate a knowledgeable buyer. And some of the 'other' knifemakers won't.
------------------