Knifemakers Flatter

DanF

DanF

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
1,411
I am interested in a flatter specific for knives. I’ve seen the spring flatters (a small, square face), and the handled flatter (a bigger square face), but I have not seen something more rectangular which might be more conducive for knife making. Does such a flatter exist, or is this another make-your-own tool?
Thanks
 
Don’t know but of the library of DVD’s I have collected over the years a good number of ABS (Masters) and Blacksmith Assn gurus use them with great success.
I guess different strokes for different folks.
 
I definitely think that's one of the "make your own" kinda tools. I don't know if a long thin one would be any better than a standard style though.
 
A.McPherson said:
I definitely think that's one of the "make your own" kinda tools. I don't know if a long thin one would be any better than a standard style though.
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Yeah, kinda what I was wondering. Too long might be detrimental to the process, lol.
 
That is what I was referring to. A long thin flatter is bound to be hard to use and may not even work well. A 2" square flatter would be of use I suppose. The main point is the blade will still need to be HTed, so flatness may not continue. I flatten as needed with a hammer and do the final flattening in the quench with quench plates.
 
We may be thinking different purposes for the flatter. The flatters I have seen in use would be to remove hammer marks in a forged blade to decrease the amount of grinding needed after the initial forging to shape. So, flattering is one process and straightening post grinding and heat treating with plates would be a different process.
There are a few people who can forge to near completion and have very little need for grinding. One past member here comes to mind, very talented, creative and possessed incredible hammer control, but I can’t think of his name at the moment.
A ”typical” flatter is 2.3”x 2.3”. I’m thinking something 2.3”x3” max.
 
I just use a flat faced hammer and gentle blows as I shape the blade to final. The edges are slightly rounded to prevent hammer marks.
One trick for getting fewer deep hammer marks in forging is to use the proper level of heat (most folks forge too cold) and work the whole blade continuously. Avoid heavy blows in the bevel shaping stages, instead doing multiple heats as needed to gradually bring the shape out.
 
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I am getting ready to make a flatter out of a 3# sledge and some 1/2" plate. Soften the strike face where I smack it, preheat the plate/head and weld the plate onto the head. I want it to get my Mokume pieces flatter before I dimple and then again after I forge them flat so I have less to grind off. Also nice for flattening out the tang/ricasso area when forging blades, too. Again, less grinding!
 
Taz said:
I am getting ready to make a flatter out of a 3# sledge and some 1/2" plate. Soften the strike face where I smack it, preheat the plate/head and weld the plate onto the head. I want it to get my Mokume pieces flatter before I dimple and then again after I forge them flat so I have less to grind off. Also nice for flattening out the tang/ricasso area when forging blades, too. Again, less grinding!
Click to expand...
Let us know how it works out (if you don’t mind?)!
 
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