It's a Walmart blister-pack grade knife. If that. Give them away as Christmas presents to the nephews. Pair the knife with a whetstone so they can learn to sharpen. And if its a nephew you really don't like get them the Lite version with no lock at all. Knife and bandaides should do it.
I'm sorry you don't know how to use a folding knife without a locking blade.
FYI: People have been using slipjoints (AKA: "Springknives") for hundreds of years, and friction folders (no spring to prevent the blade from opening when not in use, or closing between cuts) for over 2,100 years, (oldest folding knife found so far (a bone handled friction folder) dates to between 600 and 400 BCE) without cutting themselves or amputating body parts.
The first knife I gave my nephew/godson was an Opinel number 7 friction folder, at age five. (use of the ring lock is optional. Before 1955 Opinel didn't have the ring lock on any knife. Currently it is only on the Number 6 and higher. Size 5 and below still don't have a lock) I'm told by his parents he never used the lock and removed it. (it snaps on and off, with pliers or a screwdriver) I also gave him a pocket "Medium" Arkansas stone, and taught him how to sharpen a knife.
Since then I've given him some multi-blade slipjoints, and a SK Blades "Lil' Jack" Buck 112 SFO with a D2 clip point blade, as a High School Graduation present, since he not only graduated a few years early, at age eleven, but at the top of his class, as well.
I've carried a slipjoint every day since 1960, when I got my first knife, at age 5. I added a Buck 110 lockback to my belt in 1967 or 1968, and have switched between a Buck 110, Old Timer 7OT or 6OT, and a two blade slipjoint folding hunter on my belt ever since. (on some days I carry both a 110 and two blade slipjoint on my right hip.) Guess what? 9.99 times out of 10 when I needed/need a knife for some task, I grabbed/grab the slipjoint out of my pocket and used/use it.
I still have my ten original and complete fingers.
The normal cutting/slicing action forces the blade open; not closed. If you do something stupid, like stab something or try to cut/slice something with the blade spine, then yes; the blade can (and usually
does) close on the user. How hard it closes depends on the pressure being applied to the blade spine, and to a lesser extent, the strength of the spring. (one of several reasons I avoid knives with "bear trap" springs.)
I was never stupid enough to play mumbly peg, so I still have all ten of my original toes, too.
Have I ever gotten cut? Yes. Nothing worse than a paper-cut though. I doubt there is a knife user from pre-Neanderthal days to the present who hasn't (or won't) get a cut from his or her knife during their lifetime.
Was I cut because I was using a slipjoint? Nope. Operator "oops" all two or three times. (once was using a fixed blade, when I was 10 or 11, helping make a yummy whitetail deer my step pop harvested into freezer size bits, pieces, and parts.)
I think I've had more paper cuts over the decades, than knife cuts.
I understand that the Kudu and Eland are budget price point knives. Believe it or not, not everyone can afford over $20 ~ $30 for a knife.
All my Cold Steel knives are from their budget line(s):
3 or 4 each Kudu and Eland; a "G.I. TANTO"; two "Heavy Machete" and one of the larger model Kukri Machete.
Most of my 70 plus knives are sub $15 Rough Ryder slipjoints, (most are sub $10). There's a couple $23 ~ $27 Offshore Schrade and Buck slipjoints, a Colt, and a couple offshore Marbles, as well.
My most expensive knives are Buck 110's, ranging in price from $28.95 (plus state tax) to $99 for an SK Blades "The Gentleman" SFO with a CPM154 drop point blade, German Silver bolsters an liners, and G10 covers.
I also have a couple of their call it "$30.⁰⁰"Smoke Jumper 110LT SFO's with a clip point CPM154 blade. (the extra Smoke Jumper is going to donate it's blade to one of my standard production brass and wood 110's, when I have the funds to send them to Buck for the blade transplants. Don't lose the warranty that way.)
Insofar as Buck Idaho produced slipjoints are concerned, I have one standard production 301, and the 2018 Blade Forum's 2 blade 301 (with elk covers and CPM154 blades) At over $44 for a standard production 301, I'll never be able to get another, since I was forced to retire for medical reasons three years ago.
Buck fixed blades I have a white handle made in Idaho Walmart SFO 877, and 470, also made in Idaho.
