Kukri

Joined
May 27, 2013
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199
So I am making some kukris. Always wanted to make some, but it took me forever to draw up a design that didn't look like crap. I am doing five of these and this is the first one, my prototype so to speak:

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I just did the rough grinding and some draw filing, but it needs some more refinement. Haven't even drilled the holes for the handle construction yet.

Here is where I need help: this thing kept warping on me like crazy when I was grinding it (steel is 5,5mm thick 80Crv2 btw). I cooled it regularly while grinding and I worked both sides somewhat equally.
I never had that problem before doing a stock removal blade, especially with this steel and I am not sure what causes this, but this thing is fighting me tooth and nail to keep beeing warped.

Now my first question is: how do you deal with straightening when dealing with such a large blade? (its about 40cm/15,7 inches long overall and the blade is about 28cm/11inches long) I tried straightening it by placing it on two wooden shims with the curve of the bend facing upwards so to speak and hitting it with a hard rubber mallet. That however seemed to make it worse, so I straightened in my vise, by clamping it in and just bending it straight...which worked ok, but was a major pain in the butt to do.

My second question is: do you think, given that this is just a stock removal blade, that it would benefit from a stress relief cycle before hardening? Considering the length of the piece and the problems I've had with it.

Also let me know what you think about the knife itself.
 
I haven't used that steel, but I had a couple friends talk about 80CRV2 warping while grinding.
Do a Normalize/Stress Relief cycle, they said that stopped the warping and kept it straight through heat treat.

That's a nice shape by the way.
 
nice blade, the handle goes well with it. personally i would avoid that steel in the future if it does that :) but i know you guys like those super modern steels. an abs mastersmith once told me all blades, even stock removal should be normalized/stress relieved, since most steels are forged at the factory and might contain stresses. but i have also heard that is not true from other people. how about a test- next time you make one, stress relieve and whatever the rectangular bar " before" you do any stock removal to see if that might affect the warping during grinding. i have had the same problem, making the warp worse trying to straighten it. i think shimming it so its off the table did more harm than good, that gives you the ability to counterbend it too far in the other direction too easily. i had better luck with the blade laying right on the wooden bench,which would flex ( its 3/4" plywood) and hit it with a dead blow plastic hammer.
 
I always get a chuckle when people say, "X steel warps more than Y steel", etc.

They all warp roughly the same amount and for the same reasons, uneven heating and internal stresses. Learning to grind evenly and learning how to stress relieve the blades will virtually eliminate warp.
 
I haven't used that steel, but I had a couple friends talk about 80CRV2 warping while grinding.
Do a Normalize/Stress Relief cycle, they said that stopped the warping and kept it straight through heat treat.

That's a nice shape by the way.
I always get a chuckle when people say, "X steel warps more than Y steel", etc.

They all warp roughly the same amount and for the same reasons, uneven heating and internal stresses. Learning to grind evenly and learning how to stress relieve the blades will virtually eliminate warp.

Please forgive my ignorance and correct me if I am wrong, but normalizing and stress relief are not synonymus, right? They attempt to do different things at different temperatures correct? I am just asking to understand the terminology better...heat treating and metallurgy are fascinating to me, but I understand very little about it. (I read Larrins great articles though and pretend to be smarter afterwards)

So my problems with warping could be due to stresses inside the steel that have been present since it came from the manufacturer? I usually take great care to grind symmetrically....I mean I'm not perfect, but I'd be at least rather confident to say that an asymmetrical grind wasn't the primary problem.

Edit: for anyone wondering, this is NOT supposed to be a correct or authentic representation of a classic kukri design, just my take on it...even though it pales in comparison to the stuff other great makers have already made.
 
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Stress relief: 1200F for 2 hours

Normalizing: 1600-1650F for 10 minutes, air cool
 
So it has been some time since I've posted, but here is my finished piece:
As said in the first post, it is 80Crv2. The blade has been etched and stonewashed. The handle is a beautiful piece of curly koa. Let me know your opinion.

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I'm rather proud of this piece. A kukri is a challenging design and it was also the largest blade I've stonewashed so far. Getting a consistent etch on a large blade is also more difficult than on a smaller one, but I think it turned out nicely.
 
So it has been some time since I've posted, but here is my finished piece:
As said in the first post, it is 80Crv2. The blade has been etched and stonewashed. The handle is a beautiful piece of curly koa. Let me know your opinion.

6kRqVp.jpg


jewcz4.jpg


L1IPu2.jpg


I'm rather proud of this piece. A kukri is a challenging design and it was also the largest blade I've stonewashed so far. Getting a consistent etch on a large blade is also more difficult than on a smaller one, but I think it turned out nicely.

that turned out great! Nice Koa!
 
Thank you.



Probably black linen micarta with red spacers.
So much for micarta, you really took it up a notch.
It looks great!
The profile is really nice.
My only question, since I had an experience with my chopper handle, is how does the handle feel after some chopping? I had to adjust mine a tiny bit after doing yard work and finding a hot spot...
 
So much for micarta, you really took it up a notch.
It looks great!
The profile is really nice.
My only question, since I had an experience with my chopper handle, is how does the handle feel after some chopping? I had to adjust mine a tiny bit after doing yard work and finding a hot spot...

Here are some top shots of the handle, where you can see the silllhouette better. It fits my hand perfectly, but that is a subjective thing. No hot spots noticed unitl now.

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Clean lines on the grind and handle! Is that a hollow grind or flat and then draw filed as you mentioned? I ground just one recurve and it is really hard to get that grind line to follow the edge as nice as you did it.
 
Clean lines on the grind and handle! Is that a hollow grind or flat and then draw filed as you mentioned? I ground just one recurve and it is really hard to get that grind line to follow the edge as nice as you did it.

Thank you. The blade has a flat grind, I personally do not like hollow grinds on such large blades. Grinding the recurve is just a matter of practice, make contact with the edge of your platen and slowly carve away the steel. I do that to rough the grinds in and then I clean everything up on my disc grinder. Also getting clean grind lines and having them at the height you want them to be takes practice, but a good variable speed disc grinder works very well to clean up those lines....it won't help much though if your rough grind from the belt grinder is reall wonky to begin with.
Long story short, there is really no secret to grinding, just practice a lot and find what works for you.
 
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