Kurt vise handle

Pretty common practice to cut them off...I think alot of shops have a drawer or two with full length handles in them as the short ones tend to travel with the operator/machinist. At least this is the way it works at the last 2-3 shops I have worked.
 
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Hi Ang :) As Mr.Hyde mentioned, its pretty common for Kurt type vise handles to be cut off. Especially if the vise was used on a Bridgeport style mill. The stock handle is the perfect length to where it can jam tight against the Y axis saddle when cranking the X axis if you leave the handle on the vise after clamping your part.
Another good reason to cut the handle is if the operators were merely part loaders/green button pushers vs trained machinist or tool maker. Kurt/AngleLok vises are capable of generating tremendous force if the vise handle is leaned on hard. Easily enough to distort or squish parts. Cutting the vise handle is a simple way to limit the forces applied...... as long as the operator doesn't find a pipe or big hammer to overcome the shorter handle length ;)


:thumbup:
 
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Yup just saw it at http://www.swissprec.com/PDF/BRAND/2008/64.pdf

Looks very cool :thumbup:


At LMT (firearm mfg) we don't cut our Kurt handles. If they're wrong for a job then we throw 'em under a workbench and use something else, usually a torque wrench but sometimes a speed handle. There is a 2-socket speeder from SPI brand, red anodized aluminum, that works greatk and runs about $25. The SPI speeder is perfect if you need to open/close the jaw frequently but you don't need a lot of torque. Also great for when you need to move the jaw a large distance. The 2 sockets give you 2 choices, bit more speed or bit more torque. I don't normally care for SPI products, but that vise handle is really slick.
 
I use a kurt everyday, your handle is chopped quite a bit. Like said before, you have to watch it when clamping down, you can warp 1/2" stock real easy. Nice find.
 
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