Kydex Eyelets 3/16" or 1/4"

[AVigil]

What do you guys recommend for Kydex thickness and eyelet size?

I want to purchase some dies and eyelets and am leaning toward 1/4" and benefits in getting 3/16" eyelets?

 

[Remyrw]

thinner borders allowing for a narrower sheath. 1/4" have the advantage of giving room for the screws of most clips and such. I generally just drill a hole of the right size. If using a rubber spacer you can adjust tension if the hole isn't locked down by an eyelet.

 

[Mike157]

"thinner borders allowing for a narrower sheath.", as Remy states above - this may been even more of a consideration for some designs of neck knife sheaths.

 

[jll346]

I use 1/4" with .080 Boltaron and Kydex. I have used thousands with great results.

 

[Dave Behrens]

I have had a serious problem keeping the 3/16" eyelets from splitting when pressing them, and they don't allow for any clip attachment(ie, tek or molle lock). I usually use .08 - .093 kydex for most mid-size to large knives. .125" is way too thick for anything IMO, .06 is good for smaller/lighter weight blades.

 

[AVigil]

Thanks all of you guys.

I will go with the 1/4" and use .08 Kydex.

I have been using .065 and some eyelets but need to upgrade to better eyelets and dies.

Thanks !

 

[blindhogg]

Dave
I had the same issues as you on two different 3/16 dies I had. I thought it was my rivets, but on a hunch bought the new 3/16 dies from Usaknifemaker. Problem went away.
CW

 

[Mitchell Knives]

I prefer 3/16", but I like my sheaths to be as compact as possible.

If your eyelets are splitting, it's probably the dies.

 

[wolffbite]

IIRC splitting is generally caused by either A) Poor quality rivets, B) Poor quality dies or C) not centering the dies properly.

But I have only ever used 1/4" and they work fine even if I want to make a smaller sheath for a neck knife.

 

[Josh Mason]

1/4th and .093 kydex for me. The thicker kydex just seems to mold better, "stays put" in the press, and it doesn't transfer a hair or a piece of lint, or a microscopic amoeba into an eyesore in the finished product. I ruined a whole big sheet of .060 kydex because of these problems. Maybe I'm just not good at it...lol.

I use the dies from Tracy's. Expensive, but I've never had a problem with any eyelet cracking or anything. Get the 1/4th set, and some of the premium Siska eyelets. They don't have any issues flaking, or anything, like others have reported. They stay black and wear really well.

I use my cheap harbor freight drill press as a kydex eyelet press, and it works great.

Btw, if you're interested in another one of my methods of madness. I never really grind on my kydex too much. I see these guys on youtube grinding a whole huge sheet into the finished shape. That can't be good for your lungs, and is definitely one giant ass mess. I draw my finished shape around the mold with a lead pencil, and score it with a utility knife. I then use my Leatherman to just break the pieces off. Score the drawn line, break. Score against the broken edge on the backside, break. It's pretty easy to then take it to the grinder and finish it. Minimal dust.