Kydex sheath making

Last point... this has been bothering me for a few days....any maker who takes the time to write up and post a tutorial about anything on this forum or on their web page (ie, Northcoast knives) for FREE deserves a little more respect. They do not deserve to be LOL at (regardless of their or your skill level) or any of that business. They (we) do this to promote our craft and love of knifemaking on our own time and at our own expense. If you've got a better way, by all means post it- without being condesending. If the fellow from Northcoast knives reads this thread, how eager to post and write tutorials do you think he'll be in the future?

Enough said.

Thank you to all who take the time to post here and share your knowledge freely.
Scott

It was so good it deserves being said twice. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Pat at NK Knives probably would let a comment like that go in one eye and out the other. He is spoken of quite highly in the forums as he has freely helped many a noob knifemaker get started with free and quite helpful advice.
 
Hey Guys...

You guys are correct...
I didn't mean it that way, and after reading it again,, I can for sure see how it is taken that way...

I apologize for that..

The point I was trying to make is that is a fairly different way of making a sheath, and one that isn't used very much for many different reasons...

Again I apologize for not being very tactful..

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
That's the problem with the written word. It can be interpreted in many different ways by different people. That's why human communication is so much more than just the words.

You're a good man for taking the time to clear up what you were actually trying to say without blowing your stack. Good people, that's one of the things that makes taking the time to read and post here worthwhile. Thanks Normark.
Scott
 
Hey Scott...

Thanks..

Sometimes the filter between my brain and mouth don't work so well..:)
Gotta re-read these things before I hit the Submit button...

Comment has been retracted...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
I agree with Kerry...Pat is very good people...I took it to mean what I took it to mean and it wasnt meant to be mean

Well now that we have THAT cleared up :)


Eric...question


ready??

ya sure???

Do you suggest a noob getting a kydex press like is offered by knifekits??

What hardware do you use to attach your sheaths to the beltloop?? I really need a better way than I am doing it!!

I need a standoff or whatever it is called and some screws etc..
 
Hey Guys..

Leather..

Thanks...

Well again...

I don't really like the waffle type of moulding press, for several reasons..
In some ways it's good and other ways it's bad...

For one,, the pressures at the hinge side will be different that that of the outside edge..
This can cause shifting..

The pressure on the outer edge of the mould at the handle has to be Very great to press properly around the handle...

I would literally tear that press up in a matter of weeks...

I prefer straight downward pressure like that of a automtive bearing press..

A very simple press can be made with a wood vise mounted horizontal on a steardy bench. This is what Mike Sastre uses, and he does Very good work with it..

However I believe in most cases he works in a vertical plain,, where I work in a horizontal plain.
I believe there is more control when working horizontally, however some people could argue that point...

As for fasteners,, I use chicago screws ,stainless black oxide screws and 00 extra thick washers for standoffs...

What are you using ??

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Do you suggest a noob getting a kydex press like is offered by knifekits??

What hardware do you use to attach your sheaths to the beltloop?? I really need a better way than I am doing it!!

I need a standoff or whatever it is called and some screws etc..

Make the press like the one I show in my tutorial. It's scrap or sub-$10. It's not made from steel plate like the Knifekits one, but it does the exact same thing and costs a fraction.

I use Chicago screws, too.

I also use 00 rubber washers from the hardware store as standoffs. Great minds think alike! :D
 
Eric,
Where ya get your screws?? got a link bro??

I have been using a homemade press using c-clamps instead of a handle like on Chiro's

I DO have a 2 ton shop press that I used to bend my AK recievers...Think that would work?? or would it be to slow??

Thanks
Dave
 
Try it. Kydex is pretty cheap, plus you can re heat it and try again.... I usually do. I currently use a 2 ton arbor press and two pieces of 3/4" ply wood with the foam glued to it. It works for me. Grizzly has a heat gun for about $20. That and my 98 cent toaster oven do the job for me.

Has any body used Armor All on their Kydex? It seems to even out the color after you are done forming and sanding it.

I also made some blade guards for my kitchen knives so they don't attack each other.
 
I use WD 40 or that nonstick cooking spray from wallyworld


Eric and Chiro...I see that you use screws but are saying Chicago screws...The ones that I am using are Chicago screws but dont look like the ones that are shown on site

Grrr confusion!!
 
I don't really like the waffle type of moulding press, for several reasons..
In some ways it's good and other ways it's bad...

For one,, the pressures at the hinge side will be different that that of the outside edge..
This can cause shifting..

The pressure on the outer edge of the mould at the handle has to be Very great to press properly around the handle...

I would literally tear that press up in a matter of weeks...

I prefer straight downward pressure like that of a automtive bearing press..

A very simple press can be made with a wood vise mounted horizontal on a steardy bench. This is what Mike Sastre uses, and he does Very good work with it..

However I believe in most cases he works in a vertical plain,, where I work in a horizontal plain.
I believe there is more control when working horizontally, however some people could argue that point...


ttyle

Eric
O/ST

The waffle iron style press from Knifekits is what I have used so far and I have been the opposite of impressed with it. Mainly the shifting around and imprecision. I will have to try out one of the set ups that provide more and more even pressure. I am impressed with the posted pictures of sheaths that have been made with presses and will give it another go around with a better set up.
 
I have GOTTA figure out a way to use my 2ton press...bet it would make a sweet sheath is I could get it clamped down in time
 
Hey Black Dog...


That is exactly my experience with it as well...

I don't believe this press is capable of putting out enough pressure...

Personally I would go with the Satre type of set up..
A wood vise mounted horizontal....

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Hey Leatherface..

That press that Scott posted is Very close along the lines of what I use now..

The only thing I'd change about it is to use removable moulds, and make the work area taller..

Removeable moulds allow you to vary the size of knife used, while conserving expensive foam.

If you do it properly,, I can get over 100 Speed Dialer or Halo III sheaths out of a single mould,, before it's destroyed and needs replacing.

That's some Damn good milage for $3.00 worth of foam...

Other than that, I can tell you it is an Excellent designed press...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Hey Leather..

What is it you are looking for ??
That like doesn't show anything specific,,, just all the supplies...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
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