Kydex sheath making

For my arbor press, I use a 3/4" piece of plywood with the foam glued on to it. In order to make life easier, i counter sunk a magnet into the plywood so it attaches to the arm of the press. To keep pressure on the kydex while it cools, I stick a piece of coathanger wire (only because it is slightly soft and the right size) into the gear teeth on the arm so it says there.

If you need to glue kdyex, the best method I found is to use PVC cement. Prime with the purple primer, then use the "Red Hot Blue" stuff. Clamp over night.

ric
 
This is a pic of my Kydex press, crude to say the least, but it works ;)

PICT2088.jpg


I tried using IG's heat gun, but I didn't like the results, so I used a toaster oven, this heats the whole piece evenly, to the left is my press:eek: . During the forming of these sheath's, I did over cook several pieces, which are now in the trash.

PICT2090.jpg


These are the product of my efforts :D

PICT2092.jpg


IG has a tool which he uses for leather work, but it has a set of dye's that worked for the eyelets in these sheath's.

Larry T
 
Nice work Larry...

that press isnt that far from the one I am using...My neighbro is working on making me a press similar to the one Tom Krein uses...Mine will be evil of course :)
 
Hey Guys...

T Blade...

Exactly what problems are you having with the heat gun ??
Why aren't you having good results with it ??

A heat gun is all that I use.. Even on very large knives like a Becker Patrol Machette a good heat gun is all that is needed..

With a toaster oven you have little to No control over how the plastic is being heated..On small knives like the ones you've shown,, sure,, no problem,, however try it with a large blade and you'll see exactly what I mean...

With using a heat gun,, you can Exactly control how and where the plastic is heated,, and it can be easily tweaked in areas where more heat is needed..
This you can't do with a toaster oven...

If the toaster oven works for you,,Great,, but you'll have more wiggle room once you learn how to use a heat gun properly...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Normark said:
Hey Guys...

T Blade...

Exactly what problems are you having with the heat gun ??
Why aren't you having good results with it ??

A heat gun is all that I use.. Even on very large knives like a Becker Patrol Machette a good heat gun is all that is needed..

With a toaster oven you have little to No control over how the plastic is being heated..On small knives like the ones you've shown,, sure,, no problem,, however try it with a large blade and you'll see exactly what I mean...

With using a heat gun,, you can Exactly control how and where the plastic is heated,, and it can be easily tweaked in areas where more heat is needed..
This you can't do with a toaster oven...

If the toaster oven works for you,,Great,, but you'll have more wiggle room once you learn how to use a heat gun properly...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
Click to expand...


Eric,

I should have worded this differently. It's not that I was having bad results with the heat gun, because I didn't even use one, but, I was watching IG start the work on a piece of kydex for these blades with his heat gun, and being in a hurry, I saw the heat gun would take more time than the oven.

I certainly agree with you completely about having more control with a heat gun. As with the sheaths that I needed for 11 knives, I made 16 of them cause I threw away 5 for one reason or another, from the oven. Several of the 11 good ones, needed tweaking, and as I don't have a heat gun at home, I did used a butane torch, with OK results, I'm sure a heat gun is what I really needed in this case.

If I'm going to use kydex more often (and I probably will), I will certainly build a proper press and aquire the other correct tools for the construction of these type of sheaths.

Larry T
 
Larry
yours is about the same as mine..

I heat mine in the toaster oven too at ~ 175 deg F I think??:confused: I'll have to look at my notes

I can't remember anything anymore:eek:
feels like limp rubber when it's just about right..




normaly that statement would leave me open to some fun, but you know how it is..:eek:
 
I use a toaster oven set fairly low and checked frequently for the original pressing. Then I wrap the knife, slap it in my press and press it. Then shape and drill holes. Then I use a craft heat gun to tweak the fit.
 
Just found this - a lot of good advice here. Like anything, there's more than just one way of getting things done. One of the good things about working with kydex is how little in tools you absolutly have to have in order to do a decent job, and how you can adapt common household items to your needs. I'm going to post pictures of a simple press you can make with a $33 woodworking vise (since Normark mentioned it), wood scraps, and foam. Lets you work vertical or horizontal. I do both, depending on what I'm making, but mostly vertical. Works for me. For some items, it's best to do single bends with a heat gun, other items, it's better to heat the whole piece at once. Best way of getting even overall heat for molding, is done with a full size oven, if you got the room. Pictures of the press was taken for the workbook that goes along with the "Kitchen Kydex" DVD set I made for TRS Direct - just now starting to release it. They decided not to use the pics. Got a description of it with some pictures of the items I show how to make over on this thread if you are interested.

http://www.threatfocused.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637

Anyway here's the press.
 
this might have been covered and i just missed it but, i know it was stated that you can streach out a sheath that was made to tight be heating and gently sliding in your knife but can the reverse be done? i.e. you have a lose sheath so you put in your knife, heat up the sheath and let it cool and during this it shrinks maybe?

-matt
 
matt,

Your loose sheath won't tighten up by it self after applying a liitle heat - you have to add pressure, either in selected areas or overall. Simple way would be to gently heat it, put knife in sheath between two folds of a towel (kitchen pot holders will work also), then apply pressure with your hands while everything is on a workbench or counter top. If you just want to affect the holding tension, use gloves and pinch area near guard and handle junction to increase engagement of locking area.
 
Mike, that press setup is pure genius!! I had intended to make a copy of the press that Knifekits.com sells using 1/4" plate, but the setup you show here is (obviously) cheaper, and I'm guessing quite a bit more flexible, as well.

THANKS!
 
Mike Sastre said:
matt,

Your loose sheath won't tighten up by it self after applying a liitle heat - you have to add pressure, either in selected areas or overall. Simple way would be to gently heat it, put knife in sheath between two folds of a towel (kitchen pot holders will work also), then apply pressure with your hands while everything is on a workbench or counter top. If you just want to affect the holding tension, use gloves and pinch area near guard and handle junction to increase engagement of locking area.
Click to expand...

thanks, it was more soe a theroitical question, havent gotten a chance to get any kydex yet. i asssme by getting some foam and pressing the piece in the vice well when i form it i will elimiate any loseness so ill jstu have to do the trial and error game.

slightly off topic but still related, would it be feasible to use kydex in a stacked handle?

-matt
 
Matt,

Tightening in the vice/press is best if you've made one. Don't think kydex would be real suitable for a stacked handle - I wouldn't do it.

MrPurple,

This set up is essentially a portable bench. You can easily make several of them so you can be working on another sheath while one is cooling under pressure. Also make them in different sizes for different applications. Another thing you can do with this press is to insert a piece of wood (or whatever) for those times when you only want molding on one side and you need the other side to be flat (best horizontal). The $33 vise will have a finite life, all depending on how much you crank it down - screw eventually stirps, however you can do a heck of a lot of sheaths before this happens. If you invest more money in the vice, longevity goes up. $100 vice lasts waaaaayyyy more than 3 times what a $33 one does. Worth the investment if you are into production.
 
Question - how do you finish the edges of your kydex? In other words, how do you get that slick look to the edges with a slightly rounded edge? I've heard of people using a lighter but find that I have more problems that results. I'm also pretty sure that I read somewhere that you can use a bit of acetone on a rag and wipe it down the edge but can't find that reference again.

Thanks,

Charles
 
Lighter? No way! I use a Dremel with a sandin drum. I run it at mid-high speed and just chamfer ther edges by hand and remove all my saw cuts and final shape. It takes a little practice and finesse, so practice a little. This leaves a nice matte finish, which is what I like. You can probably hit it on a buffer if you want to see your reflection, but I've always like the matte finish look better, personally.
 
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