Lansky deluxe 5 stone vs. deluxe diamond

M

MuttonChew

Joined
Dec 14, 2014
Messages
5
I've been looking at these two sharpeners for a while, and am not sure which rig would better suit me.
I was looking at some reviews at it seems that you need to use oil with the 5 stone, but i haven't noticed anyone using any lubrication with the diamond.
This will be my first proper sharpener, and i will be using it to sharpen my folders.
If you have any info about these sharpening kits please help me decide which one would work better for me.
Thanks
Mutton
 
I've used the 5 stone system for a long time, then I got the diamond stones. If you're sharpening some of the harder steels, get the diamonds. It wasn't until I started sharpening ZDP189, S110V, M390 did I feel a need to get the diamonds. You don't have to spend as much time or pressure using the diamonds on any steel. It was a change for me going from the regular stones to the diamonds. Btw, I use oil on all my stones to keep them clean during sharpening. But that's just me.
 
Depends on the steel of your knives.
I started with the five stone and it works fine until you hit the "super" steels. Then you need the diamonds.

I still use two of the "oil" stones when sharpening my knives. I generally start with the medium then fine diamond hones followed by the medium and fine "stones" and finishing up with the yellow and blue ceramic hones to polish.
You don't need to use oil or water with the diamond or ceramic hones but use oil with the "stones".
I clean the diamond and ceramic hones, when I think they need it, with Ajax powder and a scrubby pad...I sit them on the "cable" box to dry lol.
 
I've only used the 5 stone delusion with the sapphire stone and it seems to do amazing. I'm sure the diamond will make it go along a little faster. Also be careful with the strop, easy to destroy if you don't pay attention!
 
those regular stones will dish out after a while and then you're stuck becuase there's no way to adjust that out of the lansky a la edgepro. get the diamonds. don't press them, let the stones do the work. enjoy for many years!
 
Ajack60 said:
I've used the 5 stone system for a long time, then I got the diamond stones. If you're sharpening some of the harder steels, get the diamonds. It wasn't until I started sharpening ZDP189, S110V, M390 did I feel a need to get the diamonds. You don't have to spend as much time or pressure using the diamonds on any steel. It was a change for me going from the regular stones to the diamonds. Btw, I use oil on all my stones to keep them clean during sharpening. But that's just me.
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I agree with this. I have used the Lansky setup with the regular stones for years I still have a set that is over 25 years old, and they have rebeveled probably 100 knives and keep more than that sharpened. If you keep the stones oiled when you are using them, they will last indefinitely. But the most important thing to their longevity is to make sure you start with the proper grit. You will dish out your stones if you start to fine, but it takes a lot more time, effort and wears your stone needlessly if you start at a higher grit than you should.

I bought the black stone that is something like a 70 grit, and it removes a lot of material really quickly even on the harder stuff, then work up through the sapphire stone which will leave a mirror finish. This has been great for repairing really damaged blades or badly ground blades. Working through the grits, it makes short work of heavy jobs. All these years later none of my stones are dished out since I use the stones correctly.

MuttonChew said:
I would be using this with a 154cm steel so would i be better to stick with the diamond stones?
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Until you get the hang of using the Lansky, I would stick with the regular stones. You can sharpen a tone of different steels with it, and it is pretty forgiving. My friends that bought the diamond stones that aren't experienced sharpeners have ground up their knives badly since the diamonds can be really aggressive. I have used the Lansky on 154cm and some harder steels like D2 and it works fine. When I got to Kershaw's S110V, I worked myself to death for hours to rebevel the edge, I realized that I needed the diamond system. The diamonds took that steel down easily.

I would strongly suggest that you take a few minutes and look at some of the YouTube videos to get some good tips on how to use the system to save yourself some heartburn. Used properly,it is great. Used incorrectly, it is a real PITA.

Robert
 
I use the medium and fine diamond hones for my 154cm knife. But use with lite pressure for best results. Finish up with a progression of grits to continue the sharpening process and smooth the edge.

Don't buy the leather strop. It may be a good idea but it does not work worth a damn. It takes too much time versus the results compared to a standard strop.
 
Kai Winters said:
I use the medium and fine diamond hones for my 154cm knife. But use with lite pressure for best results. Finish up with a progression of grits to continue the sharpening process and smooth the edge.

Don't buy the leather strop. It may be a good idea but it does not work worth a damn. It takes too much time versus the results compared to a standard strop.
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I disagree. Now while it may be a waste to most, especially those who are highly experienced, it was invaluable to me. I'm still new to sharpening and bought the lansky diamond kit for my s30v and m390. I also purchased 3 lansky strops with 3 diamond pastes 7 micron, 3 and 1 micron. And I will say that while my experience is limited, my attention to detail is rather high and I am able to get a ridiculous edge after the strops. Much more so than the fine grit. I don't however have the sapphire and it is on my list. When my knives begin to dull, I hit them on the strop and after a few swipes they pop hairs off again like no tomorrow. I also strop on the same degree as my hones. Some of the youtube videos disagree with my findings but I found that stropping on the same able got it just as sharp. My intentions were that if it could no longer sharpen them back up then I could go up a notch and do as they did but I have yet to find the need.
 
One note about strops: your edge should cleanly shave in both directions and push cut newspaper before moving on to the strop. If it's not, you're not cleanly apexing the edge and perhaps leaving behind a slight burr, and the strop is just straightening it out. This weakened metal collapses rather quickly during use, leading to a perceived lack of edge retention.

A strop should be used to refine an already sharpened edge, not necessarily as part of the sharpening process.
 
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