Lansky........ Diamond or Ceramic

Moleng1

Moleng1

Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
272
Ok, so I've finally waded through 8 million different knife sharpening systems and have decided on the Lansky system, seems a great choice $ for $....................

However!! I have searched here (up to page 20 anyway) for preferences between the diamond version and the ceramic version and can't seem to find the pros and cons??

For EDC's and kitchen knives what's my best bet for ease of use and finish, diamond or ceramic??

Or even convince me that there is a better system around the same price, and why??
 
For softer steels, the stone kit will suffice nicely if you progress through the stones completely for a near mirror edge. If you use any of the harder (ex: s30V) steels, you might want to add a course/extra course diamond stone to the standard kit. It will let you re-profile quicker and easier without wearing down the standard stones.

Omar
 
The hones in the 'standard' and 'Deluxe' Lansky kits aren't all ceramic, EXCEPT for the finishing hones (Fine 600 and the UltraFine 1000; both included in the Deluxe kit). The coarser hones (XC/Coarse/Medium) are probably aluminum oxide/corundum (but not ceramic, which are made by a different process and perform entirely different). My main gripe against the coarser standard hones is, they will be very slow on high-wear steels like S30V, D2, etc. and will also show wear (dishing/losing flatness) over time. The ceramic finishing hones won't wear at all, for all intents and purposes.

Having said that, I would recommend having at least one coarse/XC diamond hone to supplement the others, if you don't get the full diamond kit. The two ceramic finishing hones (600/1000) won't be included with the diamond kit, but they're still great to have if you want a more polished edge.


David
 
OK, so i guess we got side tracked by the "ceramic" thing, i guess im asking all diamond kit or not??
 
I'd say diamond I've found that I get a better edge on my knives with diamond simple and super steels.
Just my $0.02 hope it helps.
 
Moleng1 said:
OK, so i guess we got side tracked by the "ceramic" thing, i guess im asking all diamond kit or not??
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If only choosing one complete kit over another, I'd just go with the diamond kit. They might seem more expensive up front, but will make a big difference on big re-bevelling or heavy grinding jobs, and also with more wear-resistant steels. I've never regretted spending a little extra $$ on them, once I tried a diamond hone for the first time. Started with one supplementary diamond hone added to my Deluxe Lansky kit. I've since purchased guided diamond kits from Lansky, Gatco & DMT, as well as several other DMT hones. Bottom line, there's nothing a diamond hone won't handle, in terms of knife steel.


David
 
Thanks for the replies guys, appreciated!!

Is there anything else I should add to the diamond kit?? I have a BM Mini Barrage w/ 154CM blade, a Spyderco Manix 2 w/ an S30V blade and an Ontario DPx Hest fixed blade w/ 1095 tempered steel blade, if that helps my decision any??
 
Moleng1 said:
Thanks for the replies guys, appreciated!!

Is there anything else I should add to the diamond kit?? I have a BM Mini Barrage w/ 154CM blade, a Spyderco Manix 2 w/ an S30V blade and an Ontario DPx Hest fixed blade w/ 1095 tempered steel blade, if that helps my decision any??
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IF you someday want to polish an edge, the Fine (600) and UltraFine (1000) ceramic hones work great for that, and they're also handy for occasional touch-ups as well. If used following the Fine diamond hone, make sure you refine the scratch pattern as much as possible, before going to the ceramics. Don't leave any scratches from the coarser diamond hones. It'll make the ceramics' polishing job much easier, in starting/producing a mirror on the bevels. If well-executed, the Fine should start a hazy mirror, and the UF should bring it to near-true mirror (by naked eye). If you do want a mirror finish, use both of the ceramics in sequence. One by itself won't likely get it done, if following the diamond hones.

IF, on the other hand, you don't feel you'll need or want the mirror, the diamond hones can & will leave great working edges by themselves.

Some diamond compound (1 micron) and some green compound will always be handy for stropping, afterwards. With the more wear-resistant steels like S30V and the 154CM, use the diamond, and the green is perfect for 1095 and some of the simpler stainless steels, like 420HC/440-series.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
IF you someday want to polish an edge, the Fine (600) and UltraFine (1000) ceramic hones work great for that, and they're also handy for occasional touch-ups as well. If used following the Fine diamond hone, make sure you refine the scratch pattern as much as possible, before going to the ceramics. Don't leave any scratches from the coarser diamond hones. It'll make the ceramics' polishing job much easier, in starting/producing a mirror on the bevels. If well-executed, the Fine should start a hazy mirror, and the UF should bring it to near-true mirror (by naked eye). If you do want a mirror finish, use both of the ceramics in sequence. One by itself won't likely get it done, if following the diamond hones.

IF, on the other hand, you don't feel you'll need or want the mirror, the diamond hones can & will leave great working edges by themselves.

Some diamond compound (1 micron) and some green compound will always be handy for stropping, afterwards. With the more wear-resistant steels like S30V and the 154CM, use the diamond, and the green is perfect for 1095 and some of the simpler stainless steels, like 420HC/440-series.


David
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David, you're a wealth of information, I noticed that the Lansky system now has a stropping attachment, have you had any experience with this item, is that what you meant when you said "strop" the knives after sharpening?

Again, thanks!!
 
Moleng1 said:
David, you're a wealth of information, I noticed that the Lansky system now has a stropping attachment, have you had any experience with this item, is that what you meant when you said "strop" the knives after sharpening?

Again, thanks!!
Click to expand...

I haven't tried the Lansky stropping hone. Stropping is pretty cool, in the sense that it doesn't take anything fancy to get it done, especially when using compound. All you really need is a surface that is capable of holding the compound, and is relatively firm, smooth and uniform in texture. For stropping, knowing what I know now, my preference would be for something larger than the Lansky-sized stropping hone. Real easy to make one from a flat, smooth piece of wood and a simple piece of veg-tanned leather, held in place with adhesive/contact cement or something similar (I've made my own using double-sided tape to hold the leather). A good size for a strop is something around 8"-12" in length, and 2"-4" wide. That gives you enough room to make a noticeable difference in your edges, with just a few easy & comfortable passes. A strop as small as the Lansky stropping hone might be somewhat awkward/tedious on larger blades, as I see it. If you feel more comfortable for now, using the guided strop from Lansky, by all means give it a try.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I haven't tried the Lansky stropping hone. Stropping is pretty cool, in the sense that it doesn't take anything fancy to get it done, especially when using compound. All you really need is a surface that is capable of holding the compound, and is relatively firm, smooth and uniform in texture. For stropping, knowing what I know now, my preference would be for something larger than the Lansky-sized stropping hone. Real easy to make one from a flat, smooth piece of wood and a simple piece of veg-tanned leather, held in place with adhesive/contact cement or something similar (I've made my own using double-sided tape to hold the leather). A good size for a strop is something around 8"-12" in length, and 2"-4" wide. That gives you enough room to make a noticeable difference in your edges, with just a few easy & comfortable passes. A strop as small as the Lansky stropping hone might be somewhat awkward/tedious on larger blades, as I see it. If you feel more comfortable for now, using the guided strop from Lansky, by all means give it a try.


David
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I have actually NEVER sharpened (let alone stropped) a knife ever, so I'm pretty sure I won't feel "comfortable" at all in the foreseeable future, lol

Would an old work belt work as a strop?? I have a few of those kicking around!!
 
Moleng1 said:
I have actually NEVER sharpened (let alone stropped) a knife ever, so I'm pretty sure I won't feel "comfortable" at all in the foreseeable future, lol

Would an old work belt work as a strop?? I have a few of those kicking around!!
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In a word, YES!! A simple veg-tanned, unstitched belt is best. No waxes or plastic coatings either. I actually have a belt dedicated to stropping, with green compound lightly applied to the inner (rough) side of the leather. I use it like a hanging strop, with the buckle end looped around a bed rail or towel bar, or something similar. This is actually my favorite strop for touching up simple steels like 1095.


David
 
I just bought and received a Lansky system. Its the deluxe Ceramic system. I think it does a nice job on small folding knives and thin, short fixed blade knives that dont have a full-flat grind---they dont clamp right---The only issue I have with the system is how long it takes to sharpen a knife because you have to keep taking out the guide rods and putting in the next stone, making sure the rods are straight. I dont have that kind of time to spend on one knife. The coursest stone in the kit doesnt do a very good job. I found myself cleaning it quite a few times on each side of the blade. The finer the stones get it seems (to me anyway) the better they get. I am going back to free-handing--I really suck at it but practice makes perfect, right? I have a Norton Combination India Stone and a strop and I can get it sharp enough to cut stuff(not quite shaving sharp). I heard that the Spyerco Sharpmaker is quick and easy and I may look into it when I get more money. I am expecting a Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener in the mail that I am excited to try out.
 
OutdoorsFamilyMan4: I think you will find that all systems require some "fiddlin" around with. My dad always said that anything worth doing is worth doing right. Slow down and enjoy the process, and you will find your success rate will go up along with your enjoyment. Just my $0.02 worth.

Omar
 
OHALLUM said:
OutdoorsFamilyMan4: I think you will find that all systems require some "fiddlin" around with. My dad always said that anything worth doing is worth doing right. Slow down and enjoy the process, and you will find your success rate will go up along with your enjoyment. Just my $0.02 worth.

Omar
Click to expand...
I am sure your right. I am gonna keep practicing my freehand, though.
 
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