Lansky guided system vs DMT Aligner kits. Angel call outs, are they true?

sir_mike

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Hello everyone.

I hope this subject hasn't been beat to death but I couldn't find it during a search so here it goes.

Now I have heard that the angles on these guided systems are NOT true to their call out. Example: Just recently I seen where someone stated that the Lansky 17 degree rating is more like 14 degrees but I can't find that comment right now either.

So are these angles listed on these guided systems correct or should I say true? If not, how does one know which actual angle he/she is sharpening a blade to if they are off?

I would really like to know so I can figure out which angle I will actually be sharpening sak's, mt's, folder's and even a fixed blade or two too!

Thx. in advance for any and all comments and again, if they has been discussed before then I apologize and feel free to have this thread deleted/closed. :)
 
The angles will vary with the width of the blade being sharpened.
There are several ways you can measure your angles; a digital angle cube - $19.95, a plastic protractor - 10¢, or a free ap on your mobile phone.
But in fact, the easiest method is not to worry about the numbers. Just keep track of which setting you've used for each blade, and use that same one when you resharpen.
 
Here's what DMT provides as a reference with the Aligner...

bdf99b36514aa7ac2d706e7ae79e7a32_zpsprwz3vp9.jpg


The Lansky is similar... the actual angle is based on how far from the edge of the clamp the edge of the blade is. So if you want to know the actual angle, as Stitchawl said, easiest way is to independently measure it.
 
The angles will vary with the width of the blade being sharpened.
There are several ways you can measure your angles; a digital angle cube - $19.95, a plastic protractor - 10¢, or a free ap on your mobile phone.
But in fact, the easiest method is not to worry about the numbers. Just keep track of which setting you've used for each blade, and use that same one when you resharpen.

Yeah, I understand there are options to measure it but just wondered if this has already been discussed and documented. That makes sense just to use the same setting on the resharpen. Thx.

Here's what DMT provides as a reference with the Aligner...

bdf99b36514aa7ac2d706e7ae79e7a32_zpsprwz3vp9.jpg


The Lansky is similar... the actual angle is based on how far from the edge of the clamp the edge of the blade is. So if you want to know the actual angle, as Stitchawl said, easiest way is to independently measure it.

I forgot about that chart! Thx.

Does anyone know what the normal angle setup is on the Leatherman's?
 
those degree marks on lansky are basically useless because as several posters already ponted out, the actual degree also depends on how far the clamp is away from the edge. I should also add that it is also affected by the thickness of the blade and how it is tapered and clamped. For example, to fully secure the blade with the clamp, the two sides of the clamp for ZT0562 will be parallel but not for spyderco pm2, so even though everything else is set the same, the resulting dps for these two knives will be noticeably different.
 
This is one of the reasons I went with the KME System. It is infinitely adjustable so you can set the angle you want to use. I had a DMT, kept the hones, the rest went into the trash.
 
Just recently I seen where someone stated that the Lansky 17 degree rating is more like 14 degrees but I can't find that comment right now either.

That was probably my statement, see: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1378465-Lansky-question?p=15886896#post15886896

It is very unlikely that a factory edge exactly matches one of the settings on a clamping system.

So, the first time you sharpen a knife in a particular clamping system with fixed angle settings, you will probably have to reprofile the edge and as already mentioned by others, it is important to clamp the knife in such a way that the next time you sharpen it, you can clamp it in exact the same position.

Once you get used to doing it this way, you can very quickly touch-up a knife with removing as little steel as possible.
 
Thanks all.

I like the idea on the diamond stones on the DMT vs the standard on the Lansky but the guided part seems better built on the Lansky cause it is metal vs DMT plastic.

So which set is the best, price aside? I know the Lansky is much cheaper and an used one even more so vs the DMT.
 
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Thanks all.

I like the idea on the diamond stones on the DMT vs the standard on the Lansky but the guided part seems better built on the Lansky cause it is metal vs DMT plastic.

So which set is the best, price aside? I know the Lansky is much cheaper and an used one even more so vs the DMT.

Doesn't Lansky make a diamond kit? I think the Lansky clamp is better also.
 
The DMT aligner holder and stones will also work with the Lansky clamp and in my opinion, the DMT stones are better than the Lansky diamond stones but there are more options.

You could tape just about any stone to a Lansky stone and adjust the guide rod so it is aligned. Here are some pictures of a Lansky stone to which I glued a piece of Aluminum so I can use it as a blank for sandpaper or 3M lapping films.

I also use it with thin double sided diamond plates that I bought on eBay. They are less than $5 each so for less than $10 you have 4 grits (150, 400, 600 and 1000).
You will find them if you search for: Diamond Plate Ti Titanize Knife Sharpening Stone

So far they are performing better than the Lansky and DMT stones but I am doing a series of tests at the moment and I will post the results with detailed photos when I am ready.

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25590705394_3526586aeb_c.jpg
 
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