hehe (sorry for giggling)
my main kitchen knife is Zwilling too. overrated **** if you ask me and i am geman so cant take offense. the steel is soft and
ductile, like a cheap steel. easy to grind and create a burr with, but tbh like VG10
not too easy to deburr 100.0%. lansky you say? no doubt you managed to raise and flip a burr wire. please check with your thumb if you can feel burr on any side.
it is your only reason why the knife doesn't perform like a sharp knife should.
and macro-deburring on a guided system can still be a challenge, also for me. and once the macro burr has broken off (fatigue), the apex looks all jagged (zig-zaggy, toothy). then one needs to continue to take off more material (with 3000grit or higher) to smooth out the apex line, etc.
a 2D-loupe (100-200x magnification) can make some macroburr visible but not microburr because of the angle combo (viewing angle vs lighting angle)
which model no. is your knife? just curious.
i don't sharpen Zwilling on guided system anymore. after all these years of sharpening Zwilling with different methods my goto method has become: 204-freehanding with 204M (to raise and control the burr size), then microdeburring on a ruby stone, and afterwards maybe a very short cleanup with/by a wood strop. Short effective session, with crazy sharp results (depending on your deburring skill level). Given how fast the apex flattens after chopping on a hard plastic cutting board, the sharpening session should be kept economic, not wasting extra efforts. In kitchen, it's okay to try to maintain the apex with a SiC leather strop, i just doht do it anymore.
btw no, no finer stone needed. lansky leather? i do recommend the PTS method instead (have you googled it?
) on a guided system. it's faster cutting and indeed idiot-proof. start with the white compound.
@Mr.Wizard linked to a freebook The Knife Deburring Book or so. it says that pro's spend 40% of session time on deburring efforts. so grinding on a lansky is the easiest part, as you admitted.
