Lansky Vs Spyderco

I do not like my Lansky system one bit. It's only really suitable for smaller knives and is a pain to use. I have a buddy who owns the Spyderco (sharpmaker I believe?) and he likes it, I have yet to use one myself though.

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I use a lansky, it does the job but I would like a wicked edge at some point. I've never used the sharp maker but hear good things.
 
Lansky for primary bevel repair or angle change. Spyderco for touch up of secondary bevel.
 
Try the Spyderco Sharp Maker with diamond stones added to the basic set.
 
jonnieb27 said:
Lansky for primary bevel repair or angle change. Spyderco for touch up of secondary bevel.
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That's exactly right. I own both, if your primary bevel is 40° or more then sharpmaker won't help. Lansky isn't perfect but I can easily make all my blades shave sharp, most are S30 & S35VN. Then SM for touch ups as mentioned above.

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The Sharpmaker is simple to use and very effective. Preset angles of 30 and 40 degrees included angle.
You can also "tilt" the edge at any angle you like if you want/need some sharpening angle other than those. I don't see how you can go wrong.
Two basic sets of stones (different grits) are included in the standard set and will suffice for all but the more extreme perfectionist.
 
whp said:
Try the Spyderco Sharp Maker with diamond stones added to the basic set.
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If you want to save money, get the ruby stones from congress tools instead of the Spyderco diamond rods. Alternatively, you can wrap sandpaper around the included spyderco rods, or clamp a regular diamond stone (assuming you already own one) to the rods. Do a google image search for sharpmaker reprofliling to see examples, or just search this site.
 
I'm a total noob to knives and sharpening, but I bought a Spyderco Sharpmaker and was able to get a dull blade to hair shaving sharp in less than 5 minutes. It was my first time sharpening anything.
 
i so have a question regarding the lansky deluxe kit. is it good enough for reprofiling? or the diamond kit is needed for that. i am curious as i allready own a sharpmaker and the lansky seems like a cheap solution to the shortcomings of the sharpmaker when it comes to reprofiling
 
Diamond stones are preferred for repairing and reprofiling, especially with modern steels.

But, the Spyderco Diamond/CBN rods are not worth it. They're expensive and only about 400 grit. For the same money you can get the Lansky Diamond kit, better yet, the DMT Aligner Deluxe kit. Add an Extra Coarse and Extra Extra Coarse stone to really make quick work of a major job.

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is great at maintaining a sharp edge. My SM lives in the kitchen and is my go-to for my kitchen knives and my EDC. But, for repair/reprofile, I get out my DMT Aligner or EdgePro clone.
 
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I greatly prefer the Spyderco system. Most sharpening jobs are just touch-ups, and that's where the Sharpmaker excels. Nice quick touch-ups. If you want to do the occasional reprofile, pick up the diamond hones. My Spyderco diamond hones are about 5 years old, and my Sharpmaker is 16 years old, and still going strong. It's great for scissors too. Best sharpening buy I've ever made, next to my coarse DMT diamond benchstone.

I did buy a Lansky system before I bought my Sharpmaker. I didn't like it at all. The clamp scratched up my blades. It was annoying and cumbersome to set up, just for a quick edge touch-up. The diamonds fell off of the hones if you even got remotely heavy handed with them. I didn't like the system at all. Maybe it's improved over the years. I don't know.
 
Sorry for needing to ask, but for me, lansky vs spyderco isn't quite specific enough. Spyderco sells like 4-5 different kinds of sharpeners, and lansky seems to sell 50 kinds of sharpeners. I could presume someone is talking about the spyderco sharpmaker 204 when they say spyderco.... but I haven't a clue what they're referring to when they say lansky.
 
I own the DMT Aligner and Spyderco with both diamond and UF stones, along with the Worksharp Field Sharpener and freehand stones including my Norton IM100. Truth be told the DMT Aligner takes too long to setup so it's good for initial reprofiling but after that touching up the blade doesn't happen much unless it's really needed due to the hassle. The Spyderco is better but takes forever to reprofile even with the diamond stones. The Worksharp requires zero setup and works best in my experience for quick touch ups which it excels at and worth purchasing for this reason alone. It's so convient there is never an excuse to have a dull blade, sadly the angles are set at 20degree for diamonds and 25 for secondary bevel (strop and ceramics) which isn't an issue for in my opinion but I would prefer the diamonds set at 15degree as a preference. As for the Lansky I imagine you encouter the same issue with setup time being a pain and it may be used to maintain your blades often, if you do get one get the diamond kit as it will remain flat and will cut through the steel faster.

Having owned the Spyderco with the optional stones my advice on it, pass unless you want to go OCD on sharpening and care more about things than having a just sharp blade (like using spyderco UF rods or achieving a mirror finish). The Lansky turnbox with diamond rods will suffice and from what I recall the rods match the same dimensions as a larger drillbit (don't recall the size as I didn't write it down) so with that and a protractor nothing is stopping you from drilling some new holes for the 15degree angle the Spyderco has or more acute/obtuse if you want. From what I remember there wasn't exactly a night and day difference between the 600grit lansky diamond on here and the Spyderco's 400grit, and you may actually experience very similary performance in metal removal in actual use. Reason being is your sharpening on an "edge" constantly creating more force applied and a simple turn of the rod and you have a fresh surface where as the spyderco is a more prone being loaded up and corners and require more cleaning to use them constantly. Medium and Fine rods on lansky are a bit coarser than the spyderco rods. Spend a few dollars on some non slip rubber or silicone feet on either device and you be happy with the ability for it to not slip around too. I've bought the diamond turnbox and deluxe turnbox before for family and have used them both and honestly think they provide great value and sadly are overlooked too often here. Both the spyderco and lansky turnbox work on the same principal for achieving a sharp blade the main difference is the angles you have to choose from, but at the same angle it will achieve the same level of sharpness just a difference finish.

Now if you beat the ever living snot out of your blades like I used to, or like a quick and simple way to maintain them or get them sharp. Buy the worksharp field sharpener, I used to cut against rocks, metal, etc and would damage a blade or ruin a perfectly good edge and this bring me up to slicing receipt paper in less time than it take me to setup the Spyderco. Every now and than I have to spend a few minutes reprofiling the blade back to 20degrees but that came with the territory of abusing a blade.

Wish I could offer real advice on the normal Lansky system but honestly I have no experience from it. Truth be told though what matter most is you get the setup you think you use and will get the most out of. What works for me may not work for you and vice versa.

Edited In:
The difference in the size of the rods for the Lansky Turnbox and Spyderco Sharpmaker didn't seem to affect sharpening time, nor make a longer blade easier or harder to sharpen from my experience. It just took a few minutes to adjust, and when using a up and down motion sharpening when your not lifting the blade off the stone there is really no reason to see a decrease or increase in sharpening time.
 
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No go on the Lansky standard stones. Diamonds work well. BUT - I might not keep mine that much longer, as the Lansky hones are so narrow that they make it difficult to work on the tip of the blade, it's easy to round the tip a little because of the way you have to grip the stone.
 
Bob6794 said:
I own the DMT Aligner and Spyderco with both diamond and UF stones, along with the Worksharp Field Sharpener and freehand stones including my Norton IM100. Truth be told the DMT Aligner takes too long to setup so it's good for initial reprofiling but after that touching up the blade doesn't happen much unless it's really needed due to the hassle. The Spyderco is better but takes forever to reprofile even with the diamond stones. The Worksharp requires zero setup and works best in my experience for quick touch ups which it excels at and worth purchasing for this reason alone. It's so convient there is never an excuse to have a dull blade, sadly the angles are set at 20degree for diamonds and 25 for secondary bevel (strop and ceramics) which isn't an issue for in my opinion but I would prefer the diamonds set at 15degree as a preference. As for the Lansky I imagine you encouter the same issue with setup time being a pain and it may be used to maintain your blades often, if you do get one get the diamond kit as it will remain flat and will cut through the steel faster.

Having owned the Spyderco with the optional stones my advice on it, pass unless you want to go OCD on sharpening and care more about things than having a just sharp blade (like using spyderco UF rods or achieving a mirror finish). The Lansky turnbox with diamond rods will suffice and from what I recall the rods match the same dimensions as a larger drillbit (don't recall the size as I didn't write it down) so with that and a protractor nothing is stopping you from drilling some new holes for the 15degree angle the Spyderco has or more acute/obtuse if you want. From what I remember there wasn't exactly a night and day difference between the 600grit lansky diamond on here and the Spyderco's 400grit, and you may actually experience very similary performance in metal removal in actual use. Reason being is your sharpening on an "edge" constantly creating more force applied and a simple turn of the rod and you have a fresh surface where as the spyderco is a more prone being loaded up and corners and require more cleaning to use them constantly. Medium and Fine rods on lansky are a bit coarser than the spyderco rods. Spend a few dollars on some non slip rubber or silicone feet on either device and you be happy with the ability for it to not slip around too. I've bought the diamond turnbox and deluxe turnbox before for family and have used them both and honestly think they provide great value and sadly are overlooked too often here. Both the spyderco and lansky turnbox work on the same principal for achieving a sharp blade the main difference is the angles you have to choose from, but at the same angle it will achieve the same level of sharpness just a difference finish.

Now if you beat the ever living snot out of your blades like I used to, or like a quick and simple way to maintain them or get them sharp. Buy the worksharp field sharpener, I used to cut against rocks, metal, etc and would damage a blade or ruin a perfectly good edge and this bring me up to slicing receipt paper in less time than it take me to setup the Spyderco. Every now and than I have to spend a few minutes reprofiling the blade back to 20degrees but that came with the territory of abusing a blade.

Wish I could offer real advice on the normal Lansky system but honestly I have no experience from it. Truth be told though what matter most is you get the setup you think you use and will get the most out of. What works for me may not work for you and vice versa.

Edited In:
The difference in the size of the rods for the Lansky Turnbox and Spyderco Sharpmaker didn't seem to affect sharpening time, nor make a longer blade easier or harder to sharpen from my experience. It just took a few minutes to adjust, and when using a up and down motion sharpening when your not lifting the blade off the stone there is really no reason to see a decrease or increase in sharpening time.
Click to expand...
The Lansky works well within its limits, would work well for one who understands sharpening, as you people certainly do. Get the diamond stones and the Ultra-fine stone, plus a leather strop: you'll already have the rouge. Fairly inexpensive way to get sharp and also polish a bit. The KME is a much more advanced variation on th e Lansky system, IMHO.
 
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