Lathe tool blank for marking knife

M

Melvang

Joined
Apr 2, 2019
Messages
21
In the toolboxes from both my wife's grandfathers (both were engineers of yesteryear), are some old square and rectangle lathe tool blanks. Do you guys think these would serve as a decent woodworker marking knife?

If so, ballpark, what angle should I grind one at?
 
I think he's asking about using it to scratch lines on wood...since I use lathe tool blanks to make my engraving chisels I think it would last forever in this application:thumbsup:;)
 
WValtakis said:
I think he's asking about using it to scratch lines on wood...since I use lathe tool blanks to make my engraving chisels I think it would last forever in this application:thumbsup:;)
Click to expand...

That is where I was heading with it. If I can get some time, I will see if I can get something roughed out at work tonight.
 
eisman said:
They make wood scribes.
Click to expand...

I may not work with dead tree carcass very often, but last I knew, those are called an awl. And typically used for locating holes to be drilled, much the same way as a center punch for metalworking. Unless I am wrong, please lead me to some new info.
 
This is a wood scribe knife:

3UuBPgi.jpg


Not my image. My dad made clock cases and always had one of these on the bench. I've got one somewhere in the shop. The other alternative is a traditional Carpenters knife, which looks like a modified Whittler. Not real common any more.
 
That is pretty much exactly what I am making. Using a lathe tool blank as a starting point. It was in my wife's grandfathers toolbox. Planning on using some maple flooring I have as well for a handle. Like, I said. I am not a woodworker by trade so I had not heard or seen these referred to as a scribe in any fashion. I have only seen these, both single and double-sided like this one referred to as a marking knife.
 
Melvang said:
That is pretty much exactly what I am making. Using a lathe tool blank as a starting point. It was in my wife's grandfathers toolbox. Planning on using some maple flooring I have as well for a handle. Like, I said. I am not a woodworker by trade so I had not heard or seen these referred to as a scribe in any fashion. I have only seen these, both single and double-sided like this one referred to as a marking knife.
Click to expand...

I really don't get the sentiment of just go buy this or just go buy that, if you can make it yourself do it.
It's practice, fun, and satisfaction of making yourself something useful.
 
Hickory n steel said:
I really don't get the sentiment of just go buy this or just go buy that, if you can make it yourself do it.
It's practice, fun, and satisfaction of making yourself something useful.
Click to expand...

And this is exactly why I made this thread. I am fairly new into this level of knives and was questioning the viability of this genre of steel (not real sure as to the actual grade of it) for this intended purpose.
 
Lathe tool steel is damn hard, totally capable of becoming a marking knife. If you make your scribe chisel ground, you can lay the flat side against a straight edge and make clean, straight lines. I don't think I have ever seen or used one that had a bevel on both sides. That diamond point on eisman's scribe adds a bit of functionality in that you don't have to worry about right or left handedness, but unless you are actually a knifemaker or skilled with grinding angles a simple kiridashi design would be best for an initial attempt. Make the beveled side 20 degrees and it will get sharp enough and will be easy to maintain. I also learned that prototyping in a softer steel saves me grief--and waste and money-- instead of starting off with the good stuff.
 
BitingSarcasm said:
Lathe tool steel is damn hard, totally capable of becoming a marking knife. If you make your scribe chisel ground, you can lay the flat side against a straight edge and make clean, straight lines. I don't think I have ever seen or used one that had a bevel on both sides. That diamond point on eisman's scribe adds a bit of functionality in that you don't have to worry about right or left handedness, but unless you are actually a knifemaker or skilled with grinding angles a simple kiridashi design would be best for an initial attempt. Make the beveled side 20 degrees and it will get sharp enough and will be easy to maintain. I also learned that prototyping in a softer steel saves me grief--and waste and money-- instead of starting off with the good stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the angle suggestion. I am going to be making it double sided to be used on either edge as I have a habit of marking on both sides of my straight edge from time to time.

It's funny you mention starting with a scrap piece. Especially because I am not an experience knife maker. I have only owned my TSProf for a week or so and only taken 5 or 6 knives to it and I totally suck at free hand sharpening.
67732097_10214896695754909_557732560294117376_n.jpg
 
I've used them for various things. They are often M2 or another high speed steel and work well for applications that don't require flexibility or toughness. You can typically grind them into shape on a bench grinder without worrying about ruining the temper.

That said, I've found some re-purposed M2 to be really surprisingly tough, especially in the form of 1/8" or thinner 10 or 12" metal slitting saw blades. Those make great utility knives, scrapers, wood carving knives, and small kitchen knives.
 
Silverbullet951 said:
I've used them for various things. They are often M2 or another high speed steel and work well for applications that don't require flexibility or toughness. You can typically grind them into shape on a bench grinder without worrying about ruining the temper.

That said, I've found some re-purposed M2 to be really surprisingly tough, especially in the form of 1/8" or thinner 10 or 12" metal slitting saw blades. Those make great utility knives, scrapers, wood carving knives, and small kitchen knives.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the idea, I will keep my eye open for one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top