Leatherman Crater c33

Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
3,352
A friend of mine who uses Leatherman products a lot recommended this knife for me. He told me it was a great knife, great price, and much better than those China and Taiwan-made folders of the same cost. It's the Leatherman Crater, model c33. The Crater comes in many different configurations; plain-edged or partially serrated, a variety of tools, and different steels. This is the basic Crater; a plain-edged knife made with 420HC steel and only one tool: the carabiner. The c33 is American-made and costs around $19. It weighs in at 2.36 ounces. Let's take a look at it...

860011.jpg


Handle Details: The Crater is 3-7/8" closed and 6/16" thick. It's a pretty compact knife and it weighs next to nothing. The handle scales are made of black Zytel. They offer absolutely no texturing, save for a run of vertical lines. The scales are linerless as well to save weight. Handle construction consists of only two T-6 screws per side; one at the blade pivot and one at the carabiner pivot. This gives you a nice flow-through design so you can blow out debris and gunk as the need arises. Even though there are no pillars or reinforcements in the middle of the handle, it's stiff enough not to bend. There's a recession to serve as a finger choil, and a swell to give your hand a nice place to sit when using the knife. This is a three-finger knife for me.
The knife locks open via linerlock with no blade play. The pocket clip is removable, but not adjustable; it's mounted for right-hand tip-down carry only. It's held in place with three T-6 screws, and it's polished stainless steel. Retention is a bit iffy; mine came with a very visible gap where it should be pinching the pant pocket, and I had to remove it and carefully bend it to get it right. Even this isn't a sure guarantee against loss since both the handle scale and the clip itself are very smooth. I find the Crater moving around a lot because of this, and it's fallen out of my pocket a few times.

The Carabiner: The carbiner locks open as well, and I'll describe this as best I can...
The carbiner swings out of the butt end of the handle just like the blade swings out of the other end. The carabiner then locks open and will not disengage until you push it in, then swing it back into the handle. When closed, the carabiner has a small lip protruding that you use to pull it out. Swing it into place and it locks. When locked, there is play, but I'm told that this is normal and is the same with all of the carabiners. When locked open, it is 1" long. The carabiner itself is just a bent piece of steel with another wire-like piece of steel attached to it. Lock it open, and the wire piece (I guess I'll call it the gate since it's a carabiner) moves back-and-forth under spring pressure. The gate doesn't lock, but it does its job in keeping the Crater attached to wherever you put it.

Blade Details: The Crater's blade is 2-3/4" long with a 2-5/16" cutting edge. It's bead-blasted 420HC and just between 1/16" and 1/8" thick. It's hollow ground and bears the following lasered-on markings: LEATHERMAN on the left side of the blade, c33 on the left side tang. The right side has no markings. The left side also has the thumb stud, which is mounted on the left side only and is not reversible. Opening is actually pretty fast because they used thick phosphor bronze bushings, and you can easily flick the knife open. The blade came pretty dull, but it took a nice edge quickly. It loses this edge quickly as well, quicker than Buck's 420HC or Kershaw's old 440A. I can cut through maybe two cardboard boxes before it loses enough edge to be noticeable. My biggest complaint about the blade, however, is that it rusts. A lot. I know that 420HC is pretty rust-resistant, but I think the bead-blasting was a mistake. I can pocket the Crater for a normal work day and it will have rust spots on it when I get home. This isn't from getting it wet or from sweating all over it; this is pocket carry with a minimal amount of use. I've never had a knife as prone to rust as this, not even carbon steel knives.

In conclusion, the Crater is a miss for me. The blades's lack of rust resistance, poor edge-holding, and the questionable pocket clip make it unsuitable as an EDC or even as a work knife (for me). Go with one of those "other" $20 knives; Byrd, Buck Bantam line, Kabar Dozier line, etc.
 
Thanks for sharing this bit of information. My nephew (who is only 8, already buying blades :D ) asked me to look into leatherman knives, as his neighbor has a few he doesn't want, but won't just give to him. This was a while back, so I am not sure it is this one, but I will make sure to check before he asks to buy it, now.
 
Thanks for sharing this bit of information. My nephew (who is only 8, already buying blades :D ) asked me to look into leatherman knives, as his neighbor has a few he doesn't want, but won't just give to him. This was a while back, so I am not sure it is this one, but I will make sure to check before he asks to buy it, now.

E-mail me (click on my user name and there will be a link) with your address and I'll send you a Victorinox to give to your nephew.
 
My Leatherman affinity prompting my to snag Knives like this will always block my Spyderco affinity, preventing any desire for a Delica.
 
I'll generally agree with the assessment. I have two bottom end LM knives, the c33 and the earlier c301 which has a partially serrated blade. Both were obtained new for less than $15.

The both of them offer what I consider to be slightly odd design features for modern knives. I got the feeling LM had a bout of not-invented-here syndrome on their knife design teams, or perhaps were not well versed in typical modern knife construction. So they have what might be deemed slightly odd features to knife nuts. Things like blade stops, liner lock construction, flipper design (on the c301), lots of small parts for such a budget design.

Perhaps one reason LM tools seem to be a bit on the pricey end is that they seem to reinvent implements with every new design. Oddly enough, it looks like their knives, despite following this practice, are among the least expensive of US made knives on the market. Go figure.

I like LM steel. It took a few sharpenings to get down to the good stuff and thin out the plain edges. The serrated portion of the c301 has always been a good performer pretty much as-is. The c33 in particular does have an affinity for rust spots. This seems to be a pretty common problem with LM's bead blasted products. I don't know why they persist with it. Doesn't seem to be a debilitating problem with the knives, but still. They casually develop rust more than any carbon steel knife I've owned.

The c33 has slightly better ergonomics than the earlier c301, which was strangely slippery handle despite the highly textured frn scales. Over the years, the c301 has been modded somewhat, more texturing, removed the thumb stud. Marginally better now.

My biggest criticism of the c33 was the pointiness of the pocket clip. It seemed to have a tendency to catch clothing and upholstery. So I took it to a grinder and kind of squared it off a bit.

Despite it's weird little issues, they have turned out to be pretty solid and reliable folders, good work knives that you don't feel guilty about abusing. With such a low price, I wonder why LM doesn't try to get this model in more home improvement centers and market the made in USA angle with LM's good warranty. They're priced like a lot of those folding boxcutters that seem to have flooded the market and are almost universally disposable crappy devices.
 
Back
Top