Leg Vises!

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Sep 14, 2006
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I got these from the two farms where I grew up. The big one will need some work on the mount. It needs a spring and some wedges. The smaller one is in good shape and should be ready to use once mounted.

Tips on mounting them?

Andy
 
Here's an approach I like to use. Find and old tire still mounted on a rim. Fabricate a stand and mount your post vise to it. The trick that makes it work so well, is filling the tire with concrete. It makes the bugger "rock" solid, but it's still pretty easy to roll around the shop.

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Karl, Phil great ideas on mounting the post vises.

Phil how did you get the cement in the tire?

I have a post vise mounted outside the shop for billet grinding but would like one inside for twisting and other tasks. I will definately borrow from you guys when building my stand.

Thanks
 
I do, I took 2" square stock welded a plate to the top and bolted the mounting plate on the vise to it. Then took angle iron, milled the inside radius square and made a sleeve for the 2" stock to slide in and out of. Then dug a big ol' hole stuck two 6x6 posts at 6 & 9 o'clock and filled with 4 or 5 sacks of concrete. I can now position the vise at two different angles depending on what I'm working on.
 
Here's an approach I like to use. Find and old tire still mounted on a rim. Fabricate a stand and mount your post vise to it. The trick that makes it work so well, is filling the tire with concrete. It makes the bugger "rock" solid, but it's still pretty easy to roll around the shop.

picture.php

Can you put a lot of torque on that setup without it moving around on you?

Andy
 
I do, I took 2" square stock welded a plate to the top and bolted the mounting plate on the vise to it. Then took angle iron, milled the inside radius square and made a sleeve for the 2" stock to slide in and out of. Then dug a big ol' hole stuck two 6x6 posts at 6 & 9 o'clock and filled with 4 or 5 sacks of concrete. I can now position the vise at two different angles depending on what I'm working on.

I am not getting a visual picture on that, but being able to set the thing at a couple different angles would be a good thing. :thumbup:

Andy
 
I have three mounted in the ground, two on RR ties and one on pipe with buried cross-pieces through it, for heavy bending and twisting, and several others on truck rims for taking on installations. They all have their pluses and minuses. One thing to keep in mind if mounting in the ground-- be sure the jaws are oriented so long stock can stick out the door and that you have plenty of room overhead to swing a hammer. With the truck rim, be sure the leg goes all the way down to the ground or floor, same level as the bottom of the rim. Same with the in-the ground-- leg has to have a solid footing for vertical bashing.
 
Mike: I cracked the seal between the tire and rim and propped it open with two railroad spikes. When mixing the concrete, the smaller the aggregate the better, make it a little on the watery side. It's slow going getting it in there. Next time I'm going to see if I can cut a hole in the tire wheel-well with a hole saw or something and funnel it in. The more filled the better.

Andy: I guess it depends on how much torquing you do. Nothing will be as solid as a post sunk in the ground or bolted down to the slab. I find if I place it down on a patch of floor that's pretty clean (free of particulate matter such as the band saw and grinder generate) it stays put pretty well.
 
Thanks, all, for your input.

I think I will be mounting the big one of these to a wooden post put in the ground to maximize solidity, but I may mount the smaller one on a more mobile base such as you folks have done.

I thank you again!

Andy
 
Mike: Watch out for steel belted sidewalls. I bet they'd put up a fight that would be hard to win!
 
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