Let’s talk Seax.

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
876
just the tip


Ok no more puns. But really where do most of you amazing fiends who make seax style blades put the point. I’ve noticed the historically accurate aren’t straight edges like a wharncliffe. But bringing the tip to the middle or above it tends to blend the line between a seax and a bowie.

I can draw a bowie and profile one etc, but for some reason I can’t seem to get a seax to look “right” if that makes sense.

Main focus being the broke back seax. Appreciate any help fellas
 
just the tip


Ok no more puns. But really where do most of you amazing fiends who make seax style blades put the point. I’ve noticed the historically accurate aren’t straight edges like a wharncliffe. But bringing the tip to the middle or above it tends to blend the line between a seax and a bowie.

I can draw a bowie and profile one etc, but for some reason I can’t seem to get a seax to look “right” if that makes sense.

Main focus being the broke back seax. Appreciate any help fellas

The apex at the spine is wider and thicker than any other place, including closest to the handle.
The edge can be straight our a slight belly. I had a chart, but I think it was on my old phone.
Here's a chart at the site that can maybe help you dial in something. Got some great examples.
Hope it helps.
http://www.vikingage.org/wiki/images/b/bb/Seax_Blades.jpg
 
For a seax to look 'right' to you, you must have a good understanding of what real seaxs looked like. Google "historic seax". Look carefully at the drawings and photos of old seaxs from 1000 years ago or so. Ignore the modern reproductions, which are usually poor interpretations of the real thing. Keep in mind that the old seaxs we have today are badly rusted, which has affected the profile of some, and they are sometimes well used blades, which means they may have been sharpened until the tip has been move up.

To my eye a seax and a bowie are very different. If your drawings of a seax look like a bowie, you are probably drawing a bowie-like blade.

A seax is more than a single edged knife with a straight, unsharpened clip. 1) The seax has no plunge. The blade bevel continues into the entire tang, something like a Pukko with a triangular cross section. 2) Some seaxs have their greatest width at the end of the front 'clip' and taper either steeply or almost imperceptively toward the tang, which produces the 'broken back' profile. Some seaxs are straight, although these tend to be the longer ones. 3) Seaxs range in length from a handy edc blade up to sword length. The longer ones were weapons, not tools. They were designed to penetrate riveted chain mail. So they had strong points and relatively thick spines. 4) To my mind a seax never has a guard. You go straight from blade to handle. (Some people include guarded knives as seaxs because they call every old, northern European single edged knife a seax. I disagree.) 5) A bowie edge starts basically straight from the tang and, about 3/4 of the way down the blade, it curves up to the tip. The curve looks like it can be used for skinning and it has belly. A seax is essentially a straight blade. The tip is almost never above the center of the blade and usually is well below the center of the blade. If there is a curve to the edge near the tip, the curve is gradual and has no belly. 6) A seax can have a steep clip or a long, gradual clip. But the clip will be straight or curve down. The clip will never curve up like some bowies.

The definition of any knife style is fuzzy. There are no 'standards'. Still, if it is a recognizable style, there will be common features. I have given you my definition of a seax. Feel free to define it for yourself.

By the way, the Franks supposedly got their name from the "francisca", a small ax or hatchet. Just before charging an enemy they threw their franciscas to disrupt a line of enemy warriors or a shield wall. The Saxons supposedly got their name because they loved to fight with the seax.
 
just the tip


Ok no more puns. But really where do most of you amazing fiends who make seax style blades put the point. I’ve noticed the historically accurate aren’t straight edges like a wharncliffe. But bringing the tip to the middle or above it tends to blend the line between a seax and a bowie.

I can draw a bowie and profile one etc, but for some reason I can’t seem to get a seax to look “right” if that makes sense.

Main focus being the broke back seax. Appreciate any help fellas

This is the blade style you are going for? (Not my pic)
post-29349-0-59620700-1370561835.jpg
 
I want to play,
Photo%20Dec%2021%2C%201%2033%2029%20AM.jpg


On a broken back seax like this one I put the point just about inline with the bottom of the narrowest part of the handle. Then give it a little belly from the handle to the point. At the widest part of the belly is where I put the broken back and it's the same height offthe center line as the belly. The entire blades is one long flat grind from tip to butt. This causes the apex of the broken back to be wider. This one was around 1/4" at the handle and if I remember correctly close to 3/8" at the apex. It really puts some weight in the sweet spot.
 
Just so y’all know you guys are amazing for coming through!!

I was thinking VERY subtle guard like a 1/4” nub sticking up from handle.

Mitch those proportions are excellent, and Bob amazing Info gave me a lot to think about thank you.

If I could figure out how to upload pictures I’ll try and show my drawings and go from there.

I don’t want a langseax

More of a day belt size seax possibly bigger


Ok so almost no belly, but a little bit of curve extending wider then the hilt into the tip that is dropped definitely below Center.

JT it was your seax post the other day that I was like ok I gotta post this.

Idk what it is about the design, it’s so elegantly simple and has stood the test of time.
 
I have heard some folks say that the broken back design was the predominant form seen in the British Isles and nearby areas and that blades from other parts Germanic world oft times are more what we would today call a spear point design. According to Wikipedia, the long seax also appeared later in England than on the continent. The article also has a picture of three Merovingian era Frankish seaxs and they are all pretty symmetrical spear point blades. I guess that we picked up on the broken back design in modern times because its looks cooler.
 
I want to play,
Photo%20Dec%2021%2C%201%2033%2029%20AM.jpg


On a broken back seax like this one I put the point just about inline with the bottom of the narrowest part of the handle. Then give it a little belly from the handle to the point. At the widest part of the belly is where I put the broken back and it's the same height offthe center line as the belly. The entire blades is one long flat grind from tip to butt. This causes the apex of the broken back to be wider. This one was around 1/4" at the handle and if I remember correctly close to 3/8" at the apex. It really puts some weight in the sweet spot.

I get seax-ual release every time I look at that! Lol. Sorry I had to do it!:D

Daniel.
 
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