Lets see some Hinderer action

Pretty sure Black Linen Micarta. His description does not always say. You can contact him on IG and he will make you one.

I don't do IG but I've sent him 2 messages via his eBay store and no reply to either. Not sure why because I got copied with the request. I'll keep looking for a similar micarta I like.
 
:D:D
Am3aywqm.jpg
 
So why on earth does the blade on the new Gen2 Jurassics have to be so thick?
I want one really bad, but MY use case for that knife doesn’t jive with that blade thickness.
It’s still a tank of a knife and not much shorter than my 3.5s when closed.

Anybody think a Skinny Jurassic is in the works?
 
.....I even had the idea of flaming them bronze over my gas stove (is that a thing?), but I'm not sure if that's a good idea because it make make them soft and prone to damage (any insight appreciated).

I've filed and sanded on a lot of Hinderer hardware in both Titanium and stainless, no matter what you do to them there all soft as butter. You could probably bite them and they would dent! :confused:

For the conspiracy minded....
Make knife thats customizable,....... then ambush the screws to customize it....... Sell replacement screws for $100! o_O

Anyone have better luck with the titanium srews vs the SS screws and vice versa?
 
Anyone have better luck with the titanium srews vs the SS screws and vice versa?

Yes, the SS screws (stainless, working finish or black) are harder, and cheaper, too :). You'll still need a good allen driver. BTW, bladeswelove sells Ti Torx handle screws that work with the XM-18 and 24, in blue, bronze, and plain. And MXG also sells Ti handle screws in the 3 colors (flatheads&allen).

Regarding Knives&Lint's question: that's what I like about Ti hardware, it's easy to bronze/blue. If you heat anodize and quench in water, Ti should not get softer (it feels actually like the screws are getting harder). If you want bronze Ti screws, buy some spares, they turn blue very quickly. Stainless behave a little more predictable/slower.
 
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I could use skinny sheepsfoot screws that are harder, mine keep stripping or breaking, any links?

Here's my set tonight:
6MCrs8Kh.jpg

I had the same problem with my regular sheeps foot. The screws are a freekin joke!
I eventually just swapped out the hardware for regular xm18 hardware and it worked great. So much more robust! The whole reason they had to go to a different hardware set for the sheepsfoot model is because of poor planning.
The top most standoff interferes with the blades edge when closing by (I kid you not) 0.60mm! Thats a matter of sharpening it a few times!
What you could do is file just 0.60mm off the middle of the regular style standoff and face it inwards towards the blade edge during assembly.
As far as the replacement screws go, Im pretty sure they are Eklipse screws.

XM-18 hardware on a sheepsfoot below..
QArHfVzm.jpg
 
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I had the same problem with my regular sheeps foot. The screws are a freekin joke!
I eventually just swapped out the hardware for regular xm18 hardware and it worked great. So much more robust! The whole reason they had to go to a different hardware set for the sheepsfoot model is because of poor planning.
The top most standoff interferes with the blades edge when closing by (I kid you not) 0.60mm! Thats a matter of sharpening it a few times!
What you could do is file just 0.60mm off the middle of the regular style standoff and face it inwards towards the blade edge during assembly.
As far as the replacement screws go, Im pretty sure they are Eklipse screws.

XM-18 hardware on a sheepsfoot below..
QArHfVzl.jpg


good lookin out
 
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