Lets see those Scandi grind knives.

Curls_05.JPG
 
Some notes on the so-called "scandi grind" bevel and SBT knives.

This type of bevel has superior wood carving characteristics compared to other types of bevels. However, it is more prone to edge rolling (compared to thicker, secondary bevel type bevels) because of the sinuous nature of the bevel if the edge is not prepped properly or is being abused. Steel is just so strong and even CPM 3V will tolerate just so much when you consider how thin the actual cutting edge is.

The SBT MK1 leaves my shop with a sharp edge that I finish on the grinder with a well worn 600 grit belt. This edge will shave hair but I do not consider it a working edge just yet. There will most likely be a very fine wire edge remaining, this is especially true with A2. This is where the new owner comes in. When the new knife is received the owner should put the knife to a strop and work the edge until the wire is removed. The more stropping you do the more of a convex edge will occur. This slight convex edge will increase the strength of the actual cutting edge without inhibiting the superior carving of the scandi flat grind bevel ( the amount of convexity created will be very small). Another option is to create a micro bevel by going back to the honing stone, tipping the edge up another 15-20 degrees beyond the bevel face and put ten-fifteen strokes on each side of the edge and go back to the strop. This will give you a stronger general purpose edge. Remember, these are general suggestions, knife makers have no control over the skill levels of the user and their sharpening equipment. The user will need to work out their own program.

Also, when sharpening a scandi bevel, make sure you take the individual steps of each grit to completion. We tend to get in a hurry and not finish each step, especially the final steps of honing and stropping. If you follow through with each step and strop until the bevel shines, you will most likely have a very sharp and durable edge that will be the envy of all who see it!

So the next time you are having problems with an edge folding over, regardless of make, reassess your sharpening program first before you grab your pitch fork and start poking at the maker.

Thanks and happy cutting,

Rod
 
Thomas Linton said:
Some notes on the so-called "scandi grind" bevel and SBT knives.

This type of bevel has superior wood carving characteristics compared to other types of bevels. However, it is more prone to edge rolling (compared to thicker, secondary bevel type bevels) because of the sinuous nature of the bevel if the edge is not prepped properly or is being abused. Steel is just so strong and even CPM 3V will tolerate just so much when you consider how thin the actual cutting edge is.

The SBT MK1 leaves my shop with a sharp edge that I finish on the grinder with a well worn 600 grit belt. This edge will shave hair but I do not consider it a working edge just yet. There will most likely be a very fine wire edge remaining, this is especially true with A2. This is where the new owner comes in. When the new knife is received the owner should put the knife to a strop and work the edge until the wire is removed. The more stropping you do the more of a convex edge will occur. This slight convex edge will increase the strength of the actual cutting edge without inhibiting the superior carving of the scandi flat grind bevel ( the amount of convexity created will be very small). Another option is to create a micro bevel by going back to the honing stone, tipping the edge up another 15-20 degrees beyond the bevel face and put ten-fifteen strokes on each side of the edge and go back to the strop. This will give you a stronger general purpose edge. Remember, these are general suggestions, knife makers have no control over the skill levels of the user and their sharpening equipment. The user will need to work out their own program.

Also, when sharpening a scandi bevel, make sure you take the individual steps of each grit to completion. We tend to get in a hurry and not finish each step, especially the final steps of honing and stropping. If you follow through with each step and strop until the bevel shines, you will most likely have a very sharp and durable edge that will be the envy of all who see it!

So the next time you are having problems with an edge folding over, regardless of make, reassess your sharpening program first before you grab your pitch fork and start poking at the maker.

Thanks and happy cutting,

Rod
Click to expand...
Did you replied to my post ? [emoji15]
 
R.G said:
I just got it 5hr ago from a member here, didn't cut nothing with it and didn't test it yet, I like the scandi grind on it and yes it needs a stroping and maybe sharpening.
Click to expand...

Then you may not like the grind that the maker suggests:
The more stropping you do the more of a convex edge will occur.
Click to expand...
 
Hello buckfynn .:D

I see photo but someone can't.

Maybe upload web can not working in some country.
 
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