Lets talk GEC!

Just a guess and it may not matter to many but my experience is that sometimes acrylics are poured in multiple layers which for me is quite a bit different than bonded seams. The pours can be done this way to aid with the mixing of colors and to help avoid bubbles in the cure.
 
Always been keen on most of GEC's Acrylics, thought it was a bold & adventurous path they were taking-trying to recreate the atmosphere of Cell from former times without the outgassing self-harm ;)

Been dreaming of them doing a Butter n' Molasses look :cool:

But, definitely don't need no stinking seams :eek::poop:
 
Hi guys! I've received a pre-own gec 71 and there is a slight rusting in between the liners and a back spring. I've tried soaking that area in mineral (victorinox) oil, it helped a bit (or so it looks like), however still when working a knife while it's oiled you see some of the rusting coming out. Is there any tips/tricks on how to kill the rusting there? Below is a photo of how it looks like from the top.
It's quite nearly impossible to get a #71 in Europe, so I hope that the one I've received from Tennessee will server me well for a long time.
P.S. I apologise in advance if I've posted it in the wrong topic ;) Thanks!
https://ibb.co/xCZYSWs
 
Hi guys! I've received a pre-own gec 71 and there is a slight rusting in between the liners and a back spring. I've tried soaking that area in mineral (victorinox) oil, it helped a bit (or so it looks like), however still when working a knife while it's oiled you see some of the rusting coming out. Is there any tips/tricks on how to kill the rusting there? Below is a photo of how it looks like from the top.
It's quite nearly impossible to get a #71 in Europe, so I hope that the one I've received from Tennessee will server me well for a long time.
P.S. I apologise in advance if I've posted it in the wrong topic ;) Thanks!
https://ibb.co/xCZYSWs

Is that just oil with rust in it that's seeping out, or is that rust on the back spring? If it's on the spring, you can open the knife to half stop and then open it another 1/4 of the way, so that the spring is sticking up, and then use a fine sandpaper or other abrasive and sand off the rust (careful not to do too much). If it's just seeping out, I would soak it in some kind of penetrator oil, like 3-in-1, or Kroil, or whatever else you'd use to clean/protect firearms. (you could even do this with diesel fuel, just plop the knife in a container of it for a few days and then clean it up really well.

Otherwise, get used to the corrosion. The 1095 carbon steel and the simple alloy steel of that spring/liners are always going to patina and corrode, so just keep it oiled if you want to slow that process. But the knife will serve you well for a long time.
 
A Antons The Bullnose is an all steel construction knife so rusting can be a potential enemy. You need to get inside the well of the knife use some very fine grade abrasive paper (protect the pivot from filing dust by some tape) to clean out the rusting. Then use a wooden stick cut to size or a pipe cleaner folded up to apply fresh oil This should take care of it quite easily.Then polish the spine of the knife (as shown in your pic) with metal polish (Autosol stainless steel polish from Germany is very good) and apply thin film of oil afterwards.

Glad you got one, as a European I know how tricky it is to get them but these are fine user knives.

Regards, Will
 
Is that just oil with rust in it that's seeping out, or is that rust on the back spring? If it's on the spring, you can open the knife to half stop and then open it another 1/4 of the way, so that the spring is sticking up, and then use a fine sandpaper or other abrasive and sand off the rust (careful not to do too much). If it's just seeping out, I would soak it in some kind of penetrator oil, like 3-in-1, or Kroil, or whatever else you'd use to clean/protect firearms. (you could even do this with diesel fuel, just plop the knife in a container of it for a few days and then clean it up really well.

Otherwise, get used to the corrosion. The 1095 carbon steel and the simple alloy steel of that spring/liners are always going to patina and corrode, so just keep it oiled if you want to slow that process. But the knife will serve you well for a long time.
I know that I might sound incredibly rude and dumb, but will WD-40 do the trick as a penetrating oil (even if it's not considered an oil, but a water-displacing spray), and then applying some fresh mineral oil after? And yes, it's just an oil coming out with some rust when opening/closing the knife while it's heavily oiled.
Will Power Will Power The problem is, that there is no visible rusting while checking the inside of the knife nor from the top. The only way to see the rusting is when working in the oil. So I guess it wouldn't be possible to sand it somehow :/
 
I know that I might sound incredibly rude and dumb, but will WD-40 do the trick as a penetrating oil (even if it's not considered an oil, but a water-displacing spray), and then applying some fresh mineral oil after? And yes, it's just an oil coming out with some rust when opening/closing the knife while it's heavily oiled.
Will Power Will Power The problem is, that there is no visible rusting while checking the inside of the knife nor from the top. The only way to see the rusting is when working in the oil. So I guess it wouldn't be possible to sand it somehow :/

i would do the same... first WD40!
WD40 is thinner, more liquid thn oil and rust solvent.
and please dont use sandpaper or similar abrasives to work on just a part of the backspring.
spray the WD40 firmely in all the moving parts and joints, open and close the blade several times, spray again, wait an hour and repeat that as long as rust/ dirt comes out while open and close the knife.

good luck!
 
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I know that I might sound incredibly rude and dumb, but will WD-40 do the trick as a penetrating oil (even if it's not considered an oil, but a water-displacing spray), and then applying some fresh mineral oil after? And yes, it's just an oil coming out with some rust when opening/closing the knife while it's heavily oiled.
Will Power Will Power The problem is, that there is no visible rusting while checking the inside of the knife nor from the top. The only way to see the rusting is when working in the oil. So I guess it wouldn't be possible to sand it somehow :/
Flood it with WD-40, working the blade back and forth, then more WD-40, etc. until you just have clean WD-40 coming out. Then flush it out with mineral oil.

-Tyson
 
Hi guys! I've received a pre-own gec 71 and there is a slight rusting in between the liners and a back spring. I've tried soaking that area in mineral (victorinox) oil, it helped a bit (or so it looks like), however still when working a knife while it's oiled you see some of the rusting coming out. Is there any tips/tricks on how to kill the rusting there? Below is a photo of how it looks like from the top.
It's quite nearly impossible to get a #71 in Europe, so I hope that the one I've received from Tennessee will server me well for a long time.
P.S. I apologise in advance if I've posted it in the wrong topic ;) Thanks!
https://ibb.co/xCZYSWs
Pop the whole thing in some vinegar. I have found that vinegar will turn red rust into patina then just keep it oiled. Wash it really well first to get out all the oil so the vinegar will get in between the liners and springs. Should be fine after that and offer some protection against further rust.
 
Pop the whole thing in some vinegar. I have found that vinegar will turn red rust into patina then just keep it oiled. Wash it really well first to get out all the oil so the vinegar will get in between the liners and springs. Should be fine after that and offer some protection against further rust.
My dad used vinegar to remove rust, it was an old method that he learnt when those earlier generations did not have what we have at our disposal, and they made good with what they had. And sometimes the old ways are the best ways.
 
My dad used vinegar to remove rust, it was an old method that he learnt when those earlier generations did not have what we have at our disposal, and they made good with what they had. And sometimes the old ways are the best ways.
I didn’t realize that, but it doesn’t surprise me it is really striking how well it works. It helps to scrap at it with a toothpick too and re-submerge it if it’s particularly stubborn.
 
kjYR64S.jpg

A very special thanks to two of my fellow porch members, Jiki Jiki and @Leslie Tomville for offering to sell me these two beautiful 38’s at cost. Jiki’s package came with the added bonus of the carved bear seen surveying the scene, and a piece of basswood which I turned into figures (inspired by Jiki’s usual character carvings). Both were done solely with the 38’s main blade (and a hatchet to divide the wood blank in half).
The Whittler pattern is my favorite multi blade pattern, and I’d have no doubt missed these completely if it wasn’t for the two gentlemen. To have one is great, and to have two is outstanding. I fully intend to use of of these up in my lifetime.

dRddrua.jpg
 
Realistically if the rust is limited to between the spring and liner just opening and closing it will rub it all away anyway. It can only get there through disuse.
Hopefully good bath of wd-40 with some mineral oil afterwards + everyday multiple opening/closing the knife will do the trick! "It can only get there through disuse." - 100%, considering that I've bought it pre-used, most probably it was somewhere in the drawer for a quite some time (even tho Tennessee is not a very humid place comparing with my hometown).
 
kjYR64S.jpg

A very special thanks to two of my fellow porch members, Jiki Jiki and @Leslie Tomville for offering to sell me these two beautiful 38’s at cost. Jiki’s package came with the added bonus of the carved bear seen surveying the scene, and a piece of basswood which I turned into figures (inspired by Jiki’s usual character carvings). Both were done solely with the 38’s main blade (and a hatchet to divide the wood blank in half).
The Whittler pattern is my favorite multi blade pattern, and I’d have no doubt missed these completely if it wasn’t for the two gentlemen. To have one is great, and to have two is outstanding. I fully intend to use of of these up in my lifetime.

dRddrua.jpg
Nice! I was going to ask Jiki Jiki how he sharpens his I’m assuming course for the main and fine for the secondaries, that’s what I did but I whittle like once or twice a year and nothing much comes of it, so what do I know.
 
kjYR64S.jpg

A very special thanks to two of my fellow porch members, Jiki Jiki and @Leslie Tomville for offering to sell me these two beautiful 38’s at cost. Jiki’s package came with the added bonus of the carved bear seen surveying the scene, and a piece of basswood which I turned into figures (inspired by Jiki’s usual character carvings). Both were done solely with the 38’s main blade (and a hatchet to divide the wood blank in half).
The Whittler pattern is my favorite multi blade pattern, and I’d have no doubt missed these completely if it wasn’t for the two gentlemen. To have one is great, and to have two is outstanding. I fully intend to use of of these up in my lifetime.

dRddrua.jpg
Awesome, glad you could put it to good use.
 
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