Lets talk GEC!

Good point, Trand! I was comparing the pulls of a 73 slipjoint to a 72 lockback.

-Russell-
 
Good point, Trand! I was comparing the pulls of a 73 slipjoint to a 72 lockback.

-Russell-

My 73 slippie is way tougher to open than my 72 lockback. I can pinch the lockback open. No way on the 73. Current run, cocobolo for both.
 
Part of the function of the backspring on a slip joint pocket knife is to hold the blade in the open position. Not to just provide a loud "snap" when the blade closes. A Lock Back pocket knife does not require such a strong back spring since the blade locks in the open position. A strong backspring on a slip joint is actually somewhat of a safety feature, IMHO.
 
Part of the function of the backspring on a slip joint pocket knife is to hold the blade in the open position. Not to just provide a loud "snap" when the blade closes. A Lock Back pocket knife does not require such a strong back spring since the blade locks in the open position. A strong backspring on a slip joint is actually somewhat of a safety feature, IMHO.

Couldn't agree more Bob. I love a strong spring on my knife. I could never carry say a white owl for example. I know many love the pattern because of the softer spring but it turned me off. I want to know its staying open and my current trend is Liner Locks so maybe my view is a little skewed ;)
 
so, thanks to bob...i have the new 73 and 72LB. the 42 i picked up in the exchange.

you guys have already answered the pull question. the LB is much easier to pull. i like the 72 very much. little smaller/lighter (obviously) than the 42. so, the 72 has been my user since i got it. and, i dont see that changing any time soon.

in short, i love this knife.

i will post comparison pics of the 73, 72 and 42 when i get home. camping for the wknd.
 
Part of the function of the backspring on a slip joint pocket knife is to hold the blade in the open position. Not to just provide a loud "snap" when the blade closes. A Lock Back pocket knife does not require such a strong back spring since the blade locks in the open position. A strong backspring on a slip joint is actually somewhat of a safety feature, IMHO.

I think Carl and I disagree with you on a strong spring being a "safety feature". Neither of us wish to struggle against a strong spring when opening a knife with wet or cold hands. If you are using a knife correctly, the only function of the spring is to hold the blade open when you are not actually cutting something. A strong spring is not required for that.

If you like a strong spring, that's fine. Lots of folks do. But I wouldn't consider it a safety feature.
 
I think Carl and I disagree with you on a strong spring being a "safety feature". Neither of us wish to struggle against a strong spring when opening a knife with wet or cold hands. If you are using a knife correctly, the only function of the spring is to hold the blade open when you are not actually cutting something. A strong spring is not required for that.

If you like a strong spring, that's fine. Lots of folks do. But I wouldn't consider it a safety feature.


Obviously spring tension and ease of open are very personal things and vary for everyone. While most might not feel the added safety of a stiff spring is needed(and I get that), I find it hard to argue that a knife which is more difficult to close is not safer during use?
 
Harder to close may be safer but it also may give a false sense of security which could lead one to use in a manner that could cause accidental closing. If that happens the strong spring also may mean it closes with more authority once it gets over center and causes a worse cut. My only recent experience of this nature was with a non traditional slip joint with weak spring. Being non traditional (hole-y blade, Batman!) muscle memory told my brain it was a lock back.. . .. Duh! A stronger spring behind the fully serrated edge would have made the situation much worse!
 
Another good point made Brett!

Hmmm, I would say two things to rebut that argument.

1. All knives should have half-stops :D lol
2. If you did something to make it close on you with a strong spring, you bought your finger a little more time attached to your body as the weaker spring would have already damaged the digits.

For me the positives of a strong spring out-way the negative.
 
Another good point made Brett!

Hmmm, I would say two things to rebut that argument.

1. All knives should have half-stops :D lol
2. If you did something to make it close on you with a strong spring, you bought your finger a little more time attached to your body as the weaker spring would have already damaged the digits.

For me the positives of a strong spring out-way the negative.

All valid points, Jeff. :)

For m'self, I've been bitten the most when closing my knives. In my mind, a folder is designed to do two things: fold and cut. I seem to be keenly aware of this while using my knives, but have been (foolishly) careless once the work is done. It is said that many traffic accidents occur when a driver is close to home and thus lets their guard down; perhaps a related condition? ;) Anyhoo, I now close all my slippies using two hands: I hold the knife edge up, pinch the handle between my thumb and index finger, and fold the blade closed with the flat of my opposite index finger. Everything stays out of the blade's path, it's become routine, and I've managed to save a lot on band-aids! :D

-Brett
 
Great points my friend. I too think the majority of my bites have come from closing. The analogy of the car is spot on :thumbup:.

I think the spring is really a comfort thing. None of us are wrong we just see the dangers of things differently. To me a weak spring is just more of a hazard then the chance of a strong one closing on me. Our ramblings may help someone see the light one way or another.

Going back to what Frank said about cold and wet hands. I would say that I may have conditions like that maybe 5-10% of the time I open a knife. Where as in my mind the stronger spring is a bonus 90-95% of the time. We just see it from opposite ends of the spectrum.
 
Here's what gets me. It may be narrow-minded but it gets me anyway.

Since day one when GEC released the #23 and #73 knives, it's been know that stiff, hard, pulls are the norm with these knives. Yes, some are a little lighter than others but they are still very difficult on most of these knives. It been posted about to the point of being beaten into the ground yet people STILL buy them and complain about them.

As I type this, there is a fellow posting that, because the spring on his #73 is so stiff/hard, he may take a dremel tool to it to modify the spring and admits that by doing so he may alter the stress on the spring and cause it to break.

My .02¢ says that if you don't like a stiff/hard pull, even a moderate pull, don't buy a #23 or #73 but then like I said above, I'm a bit narrow-minded.
 
Great points my friend. I too think the majority of my bites have come from closing. The analogy of the car is spot on :thumbup:.

I think the spring is really a comfort thing. None of us are wrong we just see the dangers of things differently. To me a weak spring is just more of a hazard then the chance of a strong one closing on me. Our ramblings may help someone see the light one way or another.

Going back to what Frank said about cold and wet hands. I would say that I may have conditions like that maybe 5-10% of the time I open a knife. Where as in my mind the stronger spring is a bonus 90-95% of the time. We just see it from opposite ends of the spectrum.

The ironic thing is that I too prefer backsprings to be stiffer rather than weaker. A weak backspring can feel 'sloppy'--kinda like drinking flat soda, y'know? :)

-Brett
 
Here's what gets me. It may be narrow-minded but it gets me anyway.

Since day one when GEC released the #23 and #73 knives, it's been know that stiff, hard, pulls are the norm with these knives. Yes, some are a little lighter than others but they are still very difficult on most of these knives. It been posted about to the point of being beaten into the ground yet people STILL buy them and complain about them.

As I type this, there is a fellow posting that, because the spring on his #73 is so stiff/hard, he may take a dremel tool to it to modify the spring and admits that by doing so he may alter the stress on the spring and cause it to break.

My .02¢ says that if you don't like a stiff/hard pull, even a moderate pull, don't buy a #23 or #73 but then like I said above, I'm a bit narrow-minded.

:thumbup: another What He Said! :cool:
 
Another thing to be said for strong springs: after 50 years of use, when your Grandson is ready to pass on the knife, it will still have a functional spring. Built to last!
 
Has anyone ever posted which GEC's are the harder to open

(strong spring) than a tuna can with nail clippers?
 
Quite frankly, on a slip joint my use is such that a strong spring just isn't necessary. My only concern is that the spring is strong enough that I don't have any concern over the blade closing on me while stropping. And I have had a couple where this was a problem. They were given away with a kind warning of the spring situation.
 
If you want an easier opening #23 or #73, I would be looking for one of these models.

Tidioute
#735111T
Exotic Mexican Bocote Wood 35 pcs. no serial number
Jigged Brazilian Cherry Wood 18 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Grizzly Cut Bone 27 pcs. no serial number

#735111LT
Exotic Mexican Bocote Wood 33 pcs. no serial number
Jigged Brazilian Cherry Wood 19 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Grizzly Cut Bone 55 pcs. no serial number

Northfield
#735111T
Cocobolo Wood 27 pcs. no serial number
Dark Cocobolo Wood 10 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Stag 35 pcs. serialized 47 pcs. no serial number
Genuine Stag 24 pcs. serialized
Walnut Stain Jig Bone 39 pcs. no serial number

#735111LT
Cocobolo Wood 30 pcs. no serial number
Dark Cocobolo Wood 5 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Stag 35 pcs. serialized 55 pcs. no serial number
Genuine Stag 23 pcs. serialized
Walnut Stain Jig Bone 39 pcs. no serial number

Tidioute
#235111T
Ebony Wood 31 pcs. no serial number
Exotic Mexican Bocote Wood 27 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Grizzly Cut Bone 25 pcs. serialized 25 pcs. no serial number

#235111LT
Ebony Wood 29 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Grizzly Cut Bone 25 pcs. serialized 24 pcs. no serial number
Exotic Mexican Bocote Wood 29 pcs. no serial number

Northfield
#235111T
Primitive Bone 18 pcs. serialized
Cocobolo Wood 25 pcs. serialized 19 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Stag 35 pcs. serialized 19 pcs. no serial number
Natural Stag 10 pcs. serialized
Garnet Jig Bone 21 pcs. no serial number
Autumn Gold Jig Bone 16 pcs. no serial number

#235111LT
Cocobolo Wood 25 pcs. serialized 21 pcs. no serial number
Garnet Jig Bone 21 pcs. no serial number
Burnt Stag 35 pcs. serialized 29 pcs. no serial number
Natural Stag 8 pcs. serialized
Autumn Gold Jig Bone 25 pcs. no serial number
Genuine Stag 21 pcs. serialized

In my experience, these with lanyard tubes are easier to open than those with a solid rear pin or end cap. The Jigged Brazilian Cherry #73 in this picture was made only a few months before those with tubes. It was a 7-8 when I got it, now its maybe a 6.5. It was replaced as my go to user #73 by the grizzly bone #73T in the second pic which is a solid 5. In my experience (including only 2 #23Ts) the pulls on these were about 4.5-6. Also, a Tidioute model will have a deeper nail nick giving you better purchase making it less likely to slip and easier to open. Something to consider imho.

 
My .02¢ says that if you don't like a stiff/hard pull, even a moderate pull, don't buy a #23 or #73 but then like I said above, I'm a bit narrow-minded.

But Ed, they aren't ALL stiff. I have a 73 and a 23. Both have what I would consider reasonable springs, just about what I would rate as a 5 (= Victorinox). On the other hand, my dogleg jack is more like an 8. If I'm not careful opening it, I will break a nail.
 
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