Liner lock versus frame lock

I have an admittedly antiquated view that a frame lock is more premium than a liner lock. Mostly due to the fact that it takes a good bit of manufacturing skill for a company produce one correctly. Not to mention that I associate the frame lock with CRK.

Honestly, I'm good with either. Both are plenty strong and have pros/cons.
 
I have an admittedly antiquated view that a frame lock is more premium than a liner lock. Mostly due to the fact that it takes a good bit of manufacturing skill for a company produce one correctly. Not to mention that I associate the frame lock with CRK.

It's funny how people can perceive things differently. I always considered the frame lock a cheaper to produce version of the linerlock. With the frame lock, you don't have to worry about making an extra scale to go on top of the liner, so it's less parts and quicker to manufacture.
 
I have an admittedly antiquated view that a frame lock is more premium than a liner lock. Mostly due to the fact that it takes a good bit of manufacturing skill for a company produce one correctly. Not to mention that I associate the frame lock with CRK.

Honestly, I'm good with either. Both are plenty strong and have pros/cons.
same applies to a properly done liner lock. if done right the frame locks is not much different than the liner lock on precise angles and such. they are pretty much the same in that regard. note is made properly is the key.

as said both are very strong and safe locks if made properly, problem is many of both locks are not.
 
It's funny how people can perceive things differently. I always considered the frame lock a cheaper to produce version of the linerlock. With the frame lock, you don't have to worry about making an extra scale to go on top of the liner, so it's less parts and quicker to manufacture.

I agree, but I think a liner can have looser tolerances and lock up later. A lot of framelocks need to be fit just so at the interface of the tang and lock so that the frame doesn't stick, walk too far, or (worst of all) slip off the tang. Since the liner lock is protected from getting pushed in too far or disengaged, I think it can just sort of plop in there and do its job.

I will agree that I think a frame lock can be very inexpensive to make, but I think they really shine when done perfectly (or at least above average) like you see in higher end knives.

In short, I think liner locks can be pretty much good across the fit/finish board. I think framelocks tend to swing more wildly between garbage and superb.

I'm down with both though :)
 
i like to take it down to the basics. many of us here grew up with folding knives with no locks. think they are called traditional now. a knife that stays tight when open and in use is fine. using the knife safely doesn't require a lock in most cases but does require common sense.
 
I prefer liner for symmetry, but I'll do frame if it's done well.

IMG_0650.jpg

Liner is hit and miss; some like the Thornburn are pretty well done (look at thickness of the scales and liners!) others, not so well:

IMG_0651.jpg

That's almost toast!

Frame locks for the most part have inserts so you are good to go there as far as wear and tear.
Symmetry: that's why I don't have a Hinderer, etc.
 
There are hybrids, too, i.e. symmetrical scales but frame-integrated lock:

i-P4Ljvp7-X4.jpg


i-tF7tPn6-X4.jpg
 
It's funny how people can perceive things differently. I always considered the frame lock a cheaper to produce version of the linerlock. With the frame lock, you don't have to worry about making an extra scale to go on top of the liner, so it's less parts and quicker to manufacture.
This is kinda how I always viewed the frame lock. I thought it a bit lazy as they are leaving a scale off the knife.

Nope, it’s a feature!!!😀
 
Don't quote me on this but I read somewhere that the lock supposed to do it's job without interference form the grip, or at least to be minimal...
As one gentleman mentioned earlier in the thread - Bob Terzuola's, Emerson's, MOD, most of those knives are liner locks.
Makes sense to me. I personally prefer liner locks but have no problem compromising with frame lock if it's done well or if my priority is blade shape for instance.
Unfortunately vast majority of the frame locks, even in well positioned companies, are done so either it's hard to open the blade if your grip falls on the lock,
or the cut-off is exactly where the clip goes over your pocket and it drags your pants up when drown instead of releasing the knife.
These are of course exceptions and I don't want to make rule out of it but it's a fact in my case. I don't own really high end folders with frame locks but had a chance to play with few and
some of those don't make exception either... Another company had the clip positioned directly over the lock bar making opening of the blade with the thumbstud impossible... I still have this knife but not using it at all.
lots of people are looking at the lock as some mechanism that must withstand enormous pressure but this is not the case if you think about it. Liner lock IMO is utilitarian profile lock,
whether the frame lock is done for other reasons. To me these are trendy models before they are truly functional, of course again, with few exceptions. Most of the frame locks are flippers, this makes the knife less complicated for manufacturing,
also somebody brought it up here...
Either way, I have no problem with frame locks, especially if the knife in question looks good, but prefer liner locks.
If one is looking for concrete solid lock, we got CS's back/triad locks, one for stabbing I'd pick Benchmade's AXIS lock before anything else... :cool:
 
I have had plenty of both and have found no fault with either. Mine have been high end production and custom. I was a big framelock fan, but have been leaning toward linerlocks recently.
 
Many years ago, I wore out a Benchmade 856 Pardue liner lock, resulting in vertical blade play. It was a small knife, with thin titanium liners and as it was my fidget knife and opened many times a day, I had no complaints. But wearing out a liner lock can happen, which is why I now prefer the frame lock.
 
Many years ago, I wore out a Benchmade 856 Pardue liner lock, resulting in vertical blade play. It was a small knife, with thin titanium liners and as it was my fidget knife and opened many times a day, I had no complaints. But wearing out a liner lock can happen, which is why I now prefer the frame lock.
you can wear out a frame lock too. done it.
 
I agree with many of y'all. I prefer symmetry as well.

I use my folding knives for cutting, nothing else.

Though I own many, I am not a huge fan of either. Probably because the only locks to ever fail me were frame and liner. CRKT M16-12Z (piece of junk as it was) and if it weren't for the flipper tab I would have been bit. Granted it was before I learned not to do stupid crap with a folder, and was chopping/stabbing ice.

The other was my Bailey Model 2, which is a custom. It started to get some lock slip, but Matt was able to repair it and it's rock solid.

I really like Spyderco's caged ball bearing lock. After that, probably the compression lock.

I had an early Triad lock recon 1 (probably somewhere in a box somewhere been missing for 5 years) but it was difficult to unlock even with two hands and made me lose interest in CS.

Regardless of lock, buying a quality knife and using it as intended is the correct answer here.
 
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