Little giant double tap

The toggle links could be too slack- they should be quite close to level across with the hammer at rest. Turn the nut, or both if it's newer, to bring them up. Check the spring, it could be worn out. Also, check the bottom of the crank plate opposite the ram for wear. If the toggle linkage is too slack or otherwise maladjusted, the ram could be hitting the crankplate at the top of the stroke. I built new toggle arms and adjusted my hammer a lot, but still had to cut the top 3/4 inch off of the back ram "v" to stop it from hitting the crank plate. I got that from Sid Suedmeier, so it's an acceptable practice. If you're not sure, put a piece of masking tape around the crank plate and run the hammer, then check the tape for scarring.

Also, check your ram for smooth travel throughout the stroke. A wrongly spaced or misaligned front "v" could be causing binding or erratic ram travel. It can be shimmed out, or shims removed to get a nice glide throughout the stroke. I had to actually bend the top of my front ram guide out to make the v ways parallel.

Also, depending on the thickness of your stock, your dies may be too close together or even far apart. For general purpose forging up to 2.5" thickness, with the ram at the bottom of the stroke and at rest, you want about 1.5" between the dies.

You can call Sid at Little Giant, he's super helpful. Also, Dave Sloan here on the forums is very good with LG hammers.

Look for my "LG 50 rebuild" thread, lots of pics and text there about making one run well again.
 
Thanks for the replies. I will check the adjustment on the toggles and if that does not work, change the spring. If that does not work, call Sid.
 
Sir,

P.m. me or call me. I'd be glad to help also.

Several things you need to take into account with your original question. Every bodies LG double taps at one point or the other. I have one of the best running 25's you'll ever see, but when I stick 4 inch material in it, it will double tap for a period (until it is worked down to a smaller size).

To be most helpful we need the size of your hammer, if you could provide photo's that would be another plus and condition.

All the points up to this have been valid. Salem pointed out some things to look at, plus things that are common with 50's. The most common trait that is seen, that will cause a double tap. Is the dies are to short, meaning the lower die has worn enough that the ram has to over extent itself to strike the lower die. The original dies were only case hardened. Sid has the best die height listed on his site under useful information. If they have worn to 75% their original height they are to short.

We can go up from there. Dies without the proper clearance between each other, binding in the guides, forging to large of stock, weak spring, linkage (as Salem referred to in hanging alignment of the ram, double adjusters on the old style hammers), foundation attachment and last if not least what kind of motor or drive system are you using.

But have no fear, help is out there. Like stated before call Sid, myself (p.m me I'd love to help out) or keep posting here folks love to see these things turn out. One of the best phone calls that I was involved in, I was at Sid's shop running a hammer and Keri (Sid's daughter answered the phone), I was running a 25 full tilt. The gentleman on the other end of the phone said "I'm having troubles with my 25". Lot's of background noise to say the least, slight pause in the conversation then "I want my hammer to run like that". We fixed him up in short order.

Dave from Diller
 
Wow, nice post, Salem. You covered all the bases.
This is why Bladeforums is such an awesome place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top