Loctite 326

A

Andybrock

Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
59
Having seen one or two makers use Loctite 326 and activator 7649 I thought I’d buy some to try. I’m a little disappointed with it’s performance.(or maybe it’s my performance!)
I rough both surfaces then I clean both scales and liner with acetone then clean again with rubbing alcohol, spray the activator on the scale, let it dry then put the glue on the liner, hold them together for a minute then clamp.
It’s bond isn’t anything like GFlex that I normally use, what am I doing wrong?
I’m sticking canvas micarta to 304 grade stainless steel liners, could that be the problem?
 
Andybrock said:
Just until the activator has evaporated. Put the pieces together and clamped them for an hour or so before I started working on them again.
Click to expand...
And what does the activator directions say for bonding cure time?
Mine says full cure 3-12 hours
Fixture time is 10 mins
 
HSC /// said:
And what does the activator directions say for bonding cure time?
Mine says full cure 3-12 hours
Fixture time is 10 mins
Click to expand...
From memory mine says pretty much the same ( I’ve not got it to hand at the moment) but after a couple of days it’s fairly easy to pull apart, whereas a gflex bonding won’t budge! Have you bonded micarta with yours?
 
Andybrock said:
From memory mine says pretty much the same ( I’ve not got it to hand at the moment) but after a couple of days it’s fairly easy to pull apart, whereas a gflex bonding won’t budge! Have you bonded micarta with yours?
Click to expand...
Possibly. I can’t recall. Haven’t used mine in awhile to be honest
Try contacting @javand he might be able to assist
 
I've occasionally used it (at least 5 times) with the 7075 activator to bond a quarter to the concrete street in front of my home. It usually will stay there at least a couple of months until I notice that the quarter is gone. Determined kids, with tools!
 
You might have expired stuff or it has been ruined with excessive heat .

I used it on many knives and it did great. When it works it is fantastic

The last two times I bought it, the bonds would not cure. I suspect it was old stock or lost effectiveness from getting hot pre sale.

I hated to chuck to bottles and the activator but it became to unreliable.

Now I use JB Weld Clear Weld and like it a lot.
 
I'm not a knifemaker but doesn't alcohol leave a thin residue? I wonder if using lacquer thinner would work better?
 
I had the same issues Adam noted. It would not set up worth a darn. I left one job sitting for a week and could pop it apart by hand.
 
AVigil said:
You might have expired stuff or it has been ruined with excessive heat .

I used it on many knives and it did great. When it works it is fantastic

The last two times I bought it, the bonds would not cure. I suspect it was old stock or lost effectiveness from getting hot pre sale.

I hated to chuck to bottles and the activator but it became to unreliable.

Now I use JB Weld Clear Weld and like it a lot.
Click to expand...

just wondering if that’s the problem, old stock? I’m in the UK and had to search long and hard for a supplier so I doubt it’s sold regularly enough to ensure good stock rotation?
 
I tried it in lieu of solder for fastening bolsters to liners. It does not stand up to the heat if grinding. Easier and more secure to learn to solder
 
000Robert said:
I would substitute lacquer thinner for the alcohol or omit the alcohol altogether, then give it a go. I know that when I clean PCB's with alcohol it leaves a residue.
Click to expand...
I thought alcohol was the least likely to leave a residue....am I wrong here? It was the impression I had from a number of threads here. Here in Canada I get methyl alcohol that is about 99.9% pure according to the label.
 
Randydb said:
I thought alcohol was the least likely to leave a residue....am I wrong here? It was the impression I had from a number of threads here. Here in Canada I get methyl alcohol that is about 99.9% pure according to the label.
Click to expand...

I use 99% isopropyl alcohol a lot. I'm not sure about methyl alcohol. But you can drop a couple of drops on a cleaned piece of metal or glass and let it evaporate, and see if it leaves a residue. But for cleaning most stuff I prefer lacquer thinner or acetone. Just test them in an inconspicuous spot to make sure it doesn't discolor it or have some adverse effect.
When cleaning PCB's, I clean it first with alcohol, then clean it with lacquer thinner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top