Loctite adhesive

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yakantosh

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Jun 21, 2014
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I am getting ready to glue the scales on to a blade blank. The two glues that I have sitting around my shop right now are jb weld and loctite premium construction adhesive. I don't want to use the jb weld because of the grey line it leaves, but I don't know much about the loctite adhesive. It says that it is a polyurethane adhesive, and says it sticks to just about anything with a 30minute set time and a 24 hour cure time. Does anyone know how this glue works in the application of wood knife scales, specifically hickory?
 
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Do yourself a favor and go buy a good epoxy. Loctite isn't made for knifemaking.

My $.02
 
HomeBru said:
Do yourself a favor and go buy a good epoxy. Loctite isn't made for knifemaking.

My $.02
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Hold on now, Loctite is a brand name that represents hundreds of products

Some of those are good for knifemaking.


However I wouldn't choose that construction adhesive.

They have great CA glues and great epoxies.

I do like G Glex though, easy to find, nice packaging, works well
 
I'm not sure which Loctite brand glue you have but I've been using the Loctite 325 with the 7075 Activator for handle glue up and it's done very well for me so far. It seems to be plenty strong.
 
woodwrkr221 said:
I'm not sure which Loctite brand glue you have but I've been using the Loctite 325 with the 7075 Activator for handle glue up and it's done very well for me so far. It seems to be plenty strong.
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Yes, I like the Loctite speed bond better than any epoxy. It is very good stuff!
 
Don can you refresh my memory on which speedbond you like? Ever try tinting it with a liquid or dry tint?
 
Maelstrom78 said:
Don can you refresh my memory on which speedbond you like? Ever try tinting it with a liquid or dry tint?
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I believe I'm using 326 right now, but have used 324 & 325. Can't tell any difference, but you have to have the primer that matches the model number. Where this stuff shines and really shows it's strength is when gluing scales on slip joint liners. The scales will usually pop off at some point in the build process when epoxy is used, but never when Loctite speed bond is used. I've been using it for 8-9 years now.
 
Don Hanson III said:
I believe I'm using 326 right now, but have used 324 & 325. Can't tell any difference, but you have to have the primer that matches the model number. Where this stuff shines and really shows it's strength is when gluing scales on slip joint liners. The scales will usually pop off at some point in the build process when epoxy is used, but never when Loctite speed bond is used. I've been using it for 8-9 years now.
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Loctite 330 is good too if you can find it. Using it for 6 years.
 
I use barco bond epoxy ... It's industrial strength , seems to hold up good. there's another epoxy we use to patch cracks on 16 cylinder komatsu Diesel engines ... It's black and I forget the name but I can get the name tonight of you'd like.
 
I am going to look into using the speed bond. How does it finish, in terms of glue lines and such?
 
I've never found any glue lines that weren't my own fault for not getting the mateing surfaces flat, true, well fitted and what not. I've never thought about tinting the Loctite Speed Bond cause if I do my job well it shouldn't be necessary. A very thin layer of the glue is all we want. We aren't trying to fill gaps with the glue and glue isn't good at filling gaps anyway.
 
In my instance, I am going to be doing the handle for a Spyderco mule team. Would I be able to use the speed bond to glue scales on, and fill the holes in the handle tang with a filler glue, or can I just glue the scales to the handle without worrying about the gaps?
 
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After doing some more research, I ended up using system 3 t88 epoxy. The handle turned out very well, and I am pleased with how the epoxy performed both during the glue up. Thank you to those that steered me away from wrecking a great blank with inadequate adhesive.
 
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