I currently make a selection of resin bond diamond stones with EP style aluminum backs and would like to start making bench stones too. They will have cnc machined 6061 aluminum bodies with a resin/diamond layer bonded to one side. Other abrasives can be used, I have some boron carbide powder to try and am open to sugestions. I would like to know how thick, wide, and long the perfect stone would be? Would rubber feet on the bottom be desirable? Any special features you would like to see?
Looking for design input on resin bond diamond bench stones
- Thread starter Diemaker
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Diamond is probably the top of the heap for hand sharpening I'd think. Maybe CBN might be worth trying. 3" x 8" is probably the current standard for good bench hone size. Longer option wouldn't hurt for large knives. Double-sided multi-grit would be cool, maybe with a rubber or plastic holder that could hold the hone either side up. Put the feet on that.
The last time I asked the place I buy my diamond powder CBN was much more expensive than diamond but I won't rule it out, perhaps worth a few prototypes. 3" x 8", how thick? There is little advantage to a double sided stone and you would have to worry about contaminating the bottom stone with swarf and other debrise, remember it is a resin bond.
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I like the traditional 2"x8" personally.
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Are you asking how thick the bench stone should be or how thick the working surface should be?
(BTW, I could live with 2 x 8 as well...though I think 3 x 8 x 1/2" would be more optimal for a variety of uses.)
How thick the finished stone should be. The abrasive layer will probably be 1/16" thick, which should last for many years of regular use. A 3/8" thick aluminum body would be enough strength wise but 1/2" would still be about as cheap to make.
Advantage to a 2 x 8 is it would cost almost 1/3 less than a 3 x 8 stone. Not opposed to doing both though.
Advantage to a 2 x 8 is it would cost almost 1/3 less than a 3 x 8 stone. Not opposed to doing both though.
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I think it should be thick enough so the top sits above common stone holders, in a worn state.
Exactly! Any idea what that thickness would be? My problem here is that I don't freehand, I got into guided sharpening in 1994 and haven't looked back, so I don't have any equipment for freehand sharpening.
1/2" would work out really well for me, and it would be thick enough for rubber feet if that works out. I figure there is no such thing as a perfect size stone so 2 or 3 different sizes may be a given. I will have many molds for production so some will just be different sizes. Is 8" long enough for a 3" wide stone or would a little more be worth it?
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Speaking for myself, 8x3 is fine. Even 8x2. That will handle most anything I'd use them for.
It really depends on the price point of the different sizes. Some folks are happy freehand sharpening with the Edge Pro sized stones. For others, the bigger the better.
It really depends on the price point of the different sizes. Some folks are happy freehand sharpening with the Edge Pro sized stones. For others, the bigger the better.
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Not a fan of the 8x2.
Too skinny.
The 8x3 will sharpen kitchen knives faster, and is more stable. 8x4 would be too wide and would leave a lot of high spots in the middle.
Too skinny.
The 8x3 will sharpen kitchen knives faster, and is more stable. 8x4 would be too wide and would leave a lot of high spots in the middle.
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1x4 pocket stone
2x6 small bench stone
3x8 full size.
For a 2x8, The extra 2" length on a 2" wide stone is unnecessary unless it's an extra 1" wider.
1x6" pocket stone is too long to comfortably carry.
8x3" is the universal work horse size
Just my opinions and experience with stones
2x6 small bench stone
3x8 full size.
For a 2x8, The extra 2" length on a 2" wide stone is unnecessary unless it's an extra 1" wider.
1x6" pocket stone is too long to comfortably carry.
8x3" is the universal work horse size
Just my opinions and experience with stones
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Too skinny for what? And how will an 8x3 work faster? Curved blades result in a very small point of contact anyhow, and on straight edges a larger surface contact makes for reduced pressure, which negatively impacts the cutting speed. They can be handy when trying to work on things like spoke shave and plane irons, exceptionally wide chisels, and the like, but can't envision them cutting faster for any reason not related to a difference in composition.
With these diamond stones, reduced pressure is a good thing!!!! Too much pressure is going to be a common problem, they work best with very light pressure and edge trailing strokes. The 80 micron stone will cut Maxamet just fine with just the weight of the stone and stone arm with my Apex. Granted a little more pressure will increase the speed of cutting but at the expense of edge quality.
1 x 4 stone, how thick? I like this size as it would be relatively cheap.
2 x 6 and 3 x 8 I assume should be the same thickness, .475" thick aluminum body with .062" of abrasive. To fully machine the bodies I need to remove .025" from the width and thickness of the aluminum bar.
Adding a 2 x 8 to the lineup wouldn't be much extra work and it would cost around 1/3 less than a 3 x 8.
1 x 4 stone, how thick? I like this size as it would be relatively cheap.
2 x 6 and 3 x 8 I assume should be the same thickness, .475" thick aluminum body with .062" of abrasive. To fully machine the bodies I need to remove .025" from the width and thickness of the aluminum bar.
Adding a 2 x 8 to the lineup wouldn't be much extra work and it would cost around 1/3 less than a 3 x 8.
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If you sharpen a 240mm gyuto on a 2x6, it will take a little longer and be more awkward then on a 8x3
Mo' stone, mo better.
Mo' stone, mo better.