Looking for Fairbanks hammer operating manual...

I could see a motor mount like the mount on a car alternator. One side rotates on a hard mount and the other moves on an arc in a slotted mount and is tightened when the desired adjustment has been made. Bruce is probably right about things jumping, if the motor is not bolted down, and it hangs to produce tension. However, mounted like an alternator with tensioning on the belt by adjusting on the arc would solve that.

I am mounting mine in a normal fashion with some adjustment but certainly not 5%. I may have to modify things later. I will take a picture and post it of the mount, since I just finished it today.
 
I've not run the numbers but I'm skeptical there will be 5% of 120 +/- inches in a mount like that. We'll see, though, when I can make time to do the figuring. If getting a wider belt and keeping the 4" motor pulley looks like a good solution, my tendency would be to figure out a shim system... un-bolt motor, take out shiIt lm(s), re-bolt motor. It looks to me like figuring out how thick a shim needs to be is about the toughest part of the planning/building.

Yup, more pictures Robert... pictures are always good... =]

Mike
 
I moved the hammer yesterday to its "final resting place." It was only a matter of six feet or so, but it had to be lifted off the custom heavy pallet it was shipped on, rotated and placed on its permanent stand. I did it with a portable gantry crane I recently purchased that is adjustable in height. It lifts 2 tons. The ceiling in the shop is right at 10 feet, and with a chain hoist and trolley under the crane beam, there was barely enough room above the hammer to have space to do any lifting. In fact, I had to set it down once and drop the crane beam to get under the florescent ceiling lights and then lift the beam back up and reconnect the hammer on the other side of the lights. In the end, it worked like a champ, and everything is great.

I did the lifting with a single 6400 pound strap through the pass-through hole with the loops brought together just above the middle of the main shaft. I only lifted the hammer the minimum amount just to clear the pallet and was very careful to watch the balance. It was heavier in the front than the back, even with the arms, links and ram removed and with the motor installed low in the back. However, the back only rose 6 inches or so above the front, so it was manageable and never in danger of tipping.
 
I thought I would post a few pictures that I haven't posted before of things we have discussed, just for documentation.

Here is a picture of the old main shaft from my mid-drive Model B Fairbanks 75# hammer. The marker is at the end of the thickest part of the shaft. The shaft is the largest in diameter only under the crank/flywheel. It steps down after the crank and then gets even smaller in diameter after the mid-mount drive pulley. The smallest portion is inside the rear yoke bushing.
oldshaftlores.jpg
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Here is a picture of the old brake eccentric pin. One of the indentations is for the set screw from the bar and ball. The other indentation is from the set screw for the tensioner/idler pulley arm, since it is mounted up high on a mid-drive hammer. The narrowed portion sticks into the brake between the two little adjusting arms. As the pin is rotated, the narrowed portion acts a cam to spread or allow the contraction of the brake ring which applies or lts off the brake.
eccentricoldlores.jpg
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Here is a picture of a few of the set screws from the hammer. This is not all of the sizes. As you can see, there are various lengths and there are different diameters. The correct pin needs to be in the correct hole. I have discussed the placement in earlier posts.
setscrewslores.jpg
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Robert, did you say the brake eccentric pin was bent? Wonder how that happened? Or is it wore crooked? Curious minds and all.
 
Bruce, the brake eccentric pin was not bent. It was badly worn out because it had not been lubricated which also resulted in the hole in the casting to become oblong. I drilled the hole out and made a new pin out of heavier stock sized for the new hole.

The bent pin was the pin that passes through the tensioner/idler pulley. That one was apparently bent intentionally at the factory because the idler pulley arm had been cast with a bend in it. To get the pulley to rotate up straight, they had to bend the end of the pin where the idler pulley rides on the pin.

Snow melted yet?
 
I have a few more pictures of work just completed.
Here is the idler arm and pulley permanently installed.
idlerarmlores.jpg
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Here is the treadle linkage installed.
bottomlores.jpg
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Here is the upper part of the treadle linkage to the brake eccentric pin.
toplores.jpg
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Here are a couple of the installed magnetic switch.
switchlores.jpg
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IMG_0506switchlores2.jpg
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Here are the motor and jackshaft on the adjustable plate.
jackshaftlores.jpg
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Robert, is that 60's GMC green :)
You are prit near there.
Whatcha find out about the belt? If necessary, I can look in my stash and swee whats there, Also, I have alligator clips for cloth belts.
 
Bruce, I believe the color is "forest green," as in "Run Forest, run."

I just measured for the belt today. I believe I need one 121 1/2" total length. My drive pulley is 2 7/8" wide. I also need to get a v-belt that is 42 1/2", if I am going to keep the present size of pulley on the jack shaft. I haven't decided on that. I am not sure that I want this hammer hitting any more than a couple hundred beats a minute. Do you ask for 1/2 of the total measurement on belts or the total length?

Are you still snowed in?
 
I don't know how to order belting. Never had to buy any.
You'll have to ask Mike to do the equation on BPM. He's the numbers brainiac (BOG) Really good at that.
What do the specs say for BPM on yourt 75#? I wouldn't be afraid to run it at that.

I cleaned up 8" yesterday and another 3 today. As my wife said, it was pretty in December..........
 
I went back through some of the posts last night looking for the belt info. Mike had posted a link for Western Belting in Denver. They apparently sell belting for everything. Their phone number is 800-332-5927. I am going to call them.

I also found my own info for the 9/16" square-headed set screws on the drive pulley. I still need to order them. The company that sells them individually for $15.00 each is Suburban Bolt and Supply on the internet. I am going to order some today. They have them in 1 1/2" and 2" and maybe 1 1/4". I think that 1 1/2" will work for both set screws on the brake side of the drive pulley. However, it will be trial and error, because there is only 1" clearance on the top as the pulley rotates by and the head of the set screw is normally 1/2". The hole that has the key under it needs at a minimum a 1 1/4" set screw, and the hole that hits the shaft directly needs at a minimum a 1 1/2" set screw. Nothing can impact a set screw on the other side of the drive pulley, so any length over or equal to the minimum of 1 3/4" should work.
 
I ordered four 9/16" square headed set screws today through the website for Suburban Bolt and Supply. Indeed, it was $60.00 plus shipping.

I ordered a new flat belt from Western Belting in Denver. Their phone number is 1-800-332-5927. The guy was really helpful and very nice. The belt is very reasonable. I believe he said it is $1.19 per foot for 2 1/2" belt and $10.00 for them to put in the "hammer-in" connector. They are also sending me an extra connector to shorten the belt after it stretches. They can make an "endless" belt by shaving down each end and gluing it, if you want that. He told me there is also a material now that is nylon in the middle, and it does not stretch at all. That may be just what Mike is looking for. Since I have changed so much on the machine, I want to figure out my belt size before I go to a belt that does not stretch.
 
I need to add that I am talking about a synthetic belt - not leather. He said leather was 5 or 6 times the cost of synthetic.
 
I have had a little trouble getting the new Pitman bushing, part #26, made. It is unusual for a bushing, since it is designed to rotate in the Pitman housing, instead of being pressed in. The wrist pin, part #29, apparently is designed to not rotate inside the bushing, since it is not lubricated. This is the opposite of how most bushings would work, with the bushing being pressed in and the pin rotating. The machine shop made it the normal way and had to remake it. It was my fault for not explaining the situation, but the fact that the oil hole does not penetrate the bushing and instead only takes oil to the outside of the bushing should have raised a red flag with them. In my old one, the pin was rotating simply from wear, however, and may have confused them. Also, your machine shop needs to be told that the bushing must be a little longer than the Pitman housing in the front or it will be clamped down tight and the bushing will not rotate when the washer and nut on the outside are tightened. This is critical and was also part of the remake of mine. Hopefully, it is correct now.

The new 9/16" set screws for the drive pulley came in. I am still amazed at the price of $15 each. The length of the set screws for the brake side of the drive pulley is really critical. I could only find them in 1 1/2" and 2" lengths. 1 1/2" is too short for one of them and 2" is too long and actually hits the top of the brake ring when the drive pulley is rotated. I had one old one that was 1 3/4" and it just barely clears the brake ring on rotation. If that set screw backs out at all, it will hit the brake ring and get sheared off, which must be exactly what happened to the one that I had to remove with an easy out that was broken off. Ideally, that set screw would be 1 5/8", and you better check them every now and then.
 
I just realized that my required length for the set screws will be a little different than yours, because my drive pulley was reamed out in the center to accept the larger single-diameter main shaft that I am now using. The issue is the same, however, the lengths of the set screws on the brake side are critical, and they must be kept tight or you will shear one off.
 
Robert, I did it about the most unsafe way possible. Used a long drift and kept trying to force it in. Finally my brother hit it just right. Those springs can travel quite a ways upon compression and release (BOG)It was an entertaining afternoon.
I believe Mike used an all-thread affair to squeeze his and popped it in. I'm sur ehe'll chime in soon.
The ground frost is leaving and my hammer is finally settling back to normal position. Whew! Long wait.
 
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