Lost Coast Backpacking

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Jun 27, 2007
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Northern California's Lost Coast is an unusual region. Due to the harsh terrain Hwy. 1/101 cuts inland for about 70 miles. The communities in this region have poor access and are fairly isolated. If you like your roads local, twisty, rugged, and semi-paved it's the place to be. And if enjoy shrubbery this area is extra special. :) Shelter cove was "developed" in the 60s/70s, but failed miserably due to shyster developers, poor access, and an unfortunate plain crash at the small airport killing 17. The region has a checkered history for sure.

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Last week nine of us set out on a four day hike starting at Shelter Cove. Instead of pounding out the entire trail we decided to smell the roses and do two four mile days North, stay two nights, and one eight mile day back South to the trail-head. For the most part the tides dictated when we could travel. Low tide was around 0600 so there were some early mornings. The weather can be unpredictable, but we lucked out with high 60s/low 70s during the day and low 50s at night. Heavy fog in the mornings and evenings kept everything damp. Great weather for hoofing it up the coast.

Trail-head day 1:
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Okay, sand is a workout for sure:
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Plenty of wildlife:
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First camp:
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Bear vs. Sea Lion carcass about 200 yards from our first camp, and the after-party:
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Luckily someone brought the manual MP3 player:
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The second camp was tucked in the trees at Big Flat:
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Looking for the beer! Where's the freakin' beer!!! Next time I'm paying for an air-drop.
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The mandatory knife pic. The Bark River Colonial Patch is a great light-weight all-arounder that has served well for years.:
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On the way out. Forget about sand, rocks will do you in. Rough on everything from the knees down and requires a lot of attention. Guessing that 20% of the distance was through rock but it required 50% of the effort.
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Outside of the random backpacker and a handful of off shore fishing boats there wasn't much trace of humanity. Wildlife is in abundance including bear (tracks everywhere), rattlesnake, raccoon, sea lion, hawk, vulture, skunk, deer, more deer, etc. Next year it's the entire trail for sure (with beer)!
 
Looks a great trip. The weather is right up my street.

I like the pic of the guy playing the guitar. To me the stump looks like a smiling bearded face enjoying the music.
 
Great trip report, and I love the 'manual MP3 player.' :D I've always wanted to hike the Lost Coast. Need to get down there one of these days...
 
JCavSd , Thanks for the story and the great photos. Shelter Cove is a very special place and brings back a lot of good memories. I commercial fished for salmon there out of a 15 foot boat with rod and reel during mid 70's to about 84. This was before the development you mentioned. I drove up from the Bay Area on weekends and took most of my vacation there. We had a group of commercial fisherman all in small boats called the mosquito fleet. We launched off the beach, there was (and still is ) no launch ramp. This was before GPS and navigation was by compass and depth finder. Going back to the Cove after fishing if the fog did not lift we would run in till we heard the surf and if saw rocks knew we were North and if sand it was South. It was then run North or South till we heard the whistle bouy and then into the cove. I had some $1000 days on salmon. That was when they were paying $4 lb for large kings. Thought I was a big deal. You probably saw the statue of the fisherman there by the bait shop and hotel. That was Mario Machi who had the tackle shop and was the fish buyer. Mario was a cranky old character but taught me a lot about fishing and was always monitoring the radio and keeping track of the fisherman. I named one of my fillet knife designs after Shelter Cove. Hope to get back up there for some fishing in the next year or two and your story and photos got me stirred up.. Phil
 
JCavSd , Thanks for the story and the great photos. Shelter Cove is a very special place and brings back a lot of good memories. I commercial fished for salmon there out of a 15 foot boat with rod and reel during mid 70's to about 84. This was before the development you mentioned. I drove up from the Bay Area on weekends and took most of my vacation there. We had a group of commercial fisherman all in small boats called the mosquito fleet. We launched off the beach, there was (and still is ) no launch ramp. This was before GPS and navigation was by compass and depth finder. Going back to the Cove after fishing if the fog did not lift we would run in till we heard the surf and if saw rocks knew we were North and if sand it was South. It was then run North or South till we heard the whistle bouy and then into the cove. I had some $1000 days on salmon. That was when they were paying $4 lb for large kings. Thought I was a big deal. You probably saw the statue of the fisherman there by the bait shop and hotel. That was Mario Machi who had the tackle shop and was the fish buyer. Mario was a cranky old character but taught me a lot about fishing and was always monitoring the radio and keeping track of the fisherman. I named one of my fillet knife designs after Shelter Cove. Hope to get back up there for some fishing in the next year or two and your story and photos got me stirred up.. Phil

Glad it brought back fond memories. Most of my family is from Fort Bragg (Portuguese fisherman) and as a kid I'd hear stories about fishing along the Lost Coast. Over the last 30 years I've done many motorcycle trips that have passed through that region (Honeydew, Petrolia, etc.) and I've grown to love it. I've never had a good opportunity to fish that area, so keep a brother posted.
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Good times J. Like the wild look of the beach and the fog is awesome. We need more of that here.

On the way out. Forget about sand, rocks will do you in. Rough on everything from the knees down and requires a lot of attention. Guessing that 20% of the distance was through rock but it required 50% of the effort.
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Rock hoppin'. Much more fun without a backpack.
 
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