Maas or Flitz?

I have only used Maas polish, it is very good. I don't imagine you would see much of a difference between the two.
 
Robert Ptacel said:
I use them for the brass bolsters on my Buck knives. Which one is better or is it a toss up?
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I might be mistaken, and this is only anecdotal, but I find that Flitze to be stronger on steel than Maas, but about the same on brass... Could that be possible?

Stitchawl
 
I will agree that the Maas is a finer abrasive. The Flitz is slightly more course IMO on metal and Metal-Glo is just a tiny bit more abrasive still.

If I want to gently polish something (with no noticeable scratches at all) I use Flitz. If there are any noticable scratches (which there are almost always are I start with Metal-Glo and then use Flitz.
 
So the consensus is that Flitz has a slightly coarser abrasive. I picked Maas up at WM because it was more readily available and cheaper. I just wondered about their performance differences.
 
I use #6 green rouge and a soft buff on my Buck 110 bolsters, recently I saw a bit of tarnish, just decided to clean it up with my Maas and it was not good. If you use it as a final polish it will look ok, but if you go up the ladder, and then come back to it, you will not be pleased.

That said, it does make satin/brushed blades and handles very pretty. My wife's stainless steel handled Byrd Robin looks better than new because of Maas.
 
beckerhead said:
I use #6 green rouge and a soft buff on my Buck 110 bolsters, recently I saw a bit of tarnish, just decided to clean it up with my Maas and it was not good. If you use it as a final polish it will look ok, but if you go up the ladder, and then come back to it, you will not be pleased.

That said, it does make satin/brushed blades and handles very pretty. My wife's stainless steel handled Byrd Robin looks better than new because of Maas.
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So green rouge is even finer than Maas. I doesn't really seem that abrasive.
 
If you want a chemical cleaner, try NOXON 7 metal polish. It smells like most of the other ones but twice as strong. My son picked it up at the local auto parts store to polish golf clubs. Like everything else, it ended up on a knife.
 
Robert Ptacel said:
So green rouge is even finer than Maas. I doesn't really seem that abrasive.
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I can see a clear scratch pattern with Maas, but not with the rouge and buff. It may actually be the high speed soft wheel vs. hand rubbing the Maas?? I have read that the rouge is about 800 grit, but I use it after 1000 and 2000 wet dry to remove their scratch so I think it depends on the manufacturer, not just the color. I use Mibro #1, #2, #5, & #6 for my buffing.
 
Another question would be, why do your bolsters oxidize? Once you chemically clean a knife, basically you are removing oxidation. This exposes fresh metal to start the process over.
Give your knife a good tune up and it shouldn't be causing you constant grief.
Give it a good cleaning with WD-40 and work the springs and pivots. Blow it out with compressed air and repeat until you are happy with how smooth it opens, closes, and locks. Q-tips and old toothbrushes are good cleaning tools.
Wash it with dish soap, rinse well and blow that out with compressed air.
When you are satisfied that it is completely clean and dry, then you want to preserve it.
Go to your local gun shop and get some Birchwood Casey "Gun Stock Wax". This stuff works with raw or finished wood. It will help fill or build a finish. It also works on leather and metal.
Rub the wax all over your knife with your finger and let it set for a couple of days, then polish it with a soft cloth.
Lubricate it with mineral oil, baby oil, olive oil or maybe even Wesson Oil. I don't remember any heated discussions about the different properties of Wesson or Crisco Oil, but it's probably here somewhere. It seem like everybody wants edible lubricants. I don't worry about that so '3 in1' or Hoppe's or 10-W30 works.
 
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