Machete Steel Likes to Bend

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BladesB4Firearms

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Oct 13, 2013
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This will not be a thread bashing Cold Steel. I just wanted to make that clear.

I have two Cold Steel machetes, the Two Handed Kukri and the new Kopis. It'll be fair to say I use them heavily (abusively) yet there's this niggling little problem. While cutting trees of fair diameter (green or dead, 4"+ for the Kopis and 6"+ for the Kukri) the blades can warp (mostly the thinner Kopis).

I understand this may not be all bad, better a bend than a break. But my old Gerber Gator 18" model has a blade as thin as the Kopis, and the only way I was able to bend even sort of to the same severity (it still wasn't as severe) was clamping it in a vice and flexing it beyond 90 degrees (I have not done this to either of the Cold Steels).

I guess I'm saying I believe the heat treat is off. I've watched a video of how they are made and they seem to be in the air too long before quenching, IMO.

As said, I'm not bashing. I love both of these machetes and am very satisfied with them. I would've given them both 5/5 stars if not for the disposition to bend relatively easily. I still give them both a solid 4/5.

My main point here I guess is I'm wondering if anyone has had similar issues? I'll post pictures of the bends if requested.
 
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My CS Heavy machetes warp, too. I lay them on a flat surface, and "gently" correct the problem w/ a 2 lb. forging hammer. I keep 'em sharp enough to shave hair w/ everyday stones and a big ol' ceramic stick, and hit them w/ black Rustolem occasionally. Theyre made to beat hell out of, so I dont "sweat" them like my Trailmaster or Ghurkha Khukuri. Sounds to me like youre doing the same stuff I do with mine...

Lets see what this sucker will REALLY do....

I never expected my CS machetes to stay laser straight. The Gerbers are made of a harder steel, doesnt bend/warp, but if you push the envelope too much...snappp!!....bad day in the bush probably.
 
That's what I was thinking. Better a bend than a break. I keep mine shaving sharp with a belt sander with a mirror polished convex edge that's fairly acutely angled and they still hold an edge fairly well.
 
I have the standard CS Kukri machete, and it came with a slight warp in it. For $20 bucks, I didn't sweat it. I've done some pretty serious chopping with it in the woods and the warp hasn't gotten any worse. I'll probably straighten it with a hammer at some point, but overall, I'm really happy.
 
They run their machetes a few points softer than some.

I got a bit of bend on the spine of my CS magnum khukri while batoning it through a knotted piece of wood.

The good thing about them is you can smack them back flat with a maul, or axe etc.

I have also thrown it, which is a lot of stress on that thin neck.
 
a machete is a machete.
and when cs came out with a range of machete traditional sword like replicas;
my first thought was
that these were never meant, nor could be expected to function like the originals.
all very fun like "boys toys" for back yard play.
i would be really surprised if anyone sought them out as outdoors expedition material....
 
Thanks for all this input. I just wanted to make sure I didn't get a lemon. I'll probably replace the Kopis with some kind of Condor for heavy duty use.
 
It's my understanding that machetes aren't for taking down 5 to 6 inch thick trees ? Isn't the whole idea of a machete clearing jungle , brush . Vine , etc?
 
Ausseknifeknut said:
It's my understanding that machetes aren't for taking down 5 to 6 inch thick trees ? Isn't the whole idea of a machete clearing jungle , brush . Vine , etc?
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Incorrect. In my area, South Carolina, and other areas with softwoods or jungle, a machete works pretty well at taking down trees as well. A machete is a do-all tool for those areas, as an experienced axeman can do all with just his axe.

I agree that CS machetes are softer than most. Still fine to use, but a Tramontina or Imacasa is cheaper and built better.
 
I'm not sure what aspect of the heat treat makes CS machetes bend prone (softness? improper timing? who knows?). However, ideally, a machete should be able to take a great deal of abuse without taking a noticeable set, being essentially a sharpened flat spring. On the other hand, if CS's factory is going to err on one side or the other, I'd much rather they make them malleable than brittle. Better bent than snapped.
 
G. Scott H. said:
I'm not sure what aspect of the heat treat makes CS machetes bend prone (softness? improper timing? who knows?). However, ideally, a machete should be able to take a great deal of abuse without taking a noticeable set, being essentially a sharpened flat spring. On the other hand, if CS's factory is going to err on one side or the other, I'd much rather they make them malleable than brittle. Better bent than snapped.
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My thoughts exactly. I just know they could make them so much better if the used 1075 steel and heat treated them like Condor or Gerber does. The warps are just so annoying more than anything.
 
RemyKaze said:
Incorrect. In my area, South Carolina, and other areas with softwoods or jungle, a machete works pretty well at taking down trees as well. A machete is a do-all tool for those areas, as an experienced axeman can do all with just his axe.

I agree that CS machetes are softer than most. Still fine to use, but a Tramontina or Imacasa is cheaper and built better.
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Yeah, the only thing I can't get a CS Heavy to at least make headway w/ albeit a bit slower here in my area of SC is those blasted yellow pine trees, hard as a freakin' rock!

When I lived in western NC, fatwood was easy to come by on the longleaf variety.

The swampland of Louisiana is where these machetes really come into thier own, w/ regular care.

The Condor/Imacassa line is better built. I am especially fond of the Village Parang.
 
I cut some pretty tough hardwoods here in TN. Sometimes Hickory, but usually White Oak, Red Oak, and Rock Maple. Usually dead. Our pines here are soft, Black Pines are the hardest pine we have, but still relatively soft. Red Cedar is the hardest evergreen we have.
 
I'm no metallurgist, but the machete bein' a "sharpened flat spring" IMHO is a great idea, since your machete WILL come into contact w/ material such as rock, nails, wire, concrete etc.

The CSTM has been described by many a knife enthusiast as a "sharpened pry bar", however, I believe that title firmly rests w/ our friends at Himalayan Imports and the Chirrwa Ang Khola!

Cold Steel tends to run a bit more "middle of the road" now, w/ a 5 year warranty on fixed blades.

Why doesn't that extend to a CS machete (as far as I know, and forgive my ignorance if I am in need of an update here)??

Bscause folk just beat hell out of machetes, throw 'em in the truck, and go on.

So the steel needs to be "forgiving" enough to withstand a "field expedient" correction if it warps due to heavy use, such as processing heavier wood.

A magazine spring will eventually take a definitive "set" i.e. Glock magazines get easier to load after being under stress for about a week. These springs, in my experience must be regularly replaced to ensure proper function of the tool.

CS machetes can be straightened out many many times, w/ no apparent ill effect. So I may be wrong, but I cant see that as a true "set".

If a man knows how to stretch, de-stress, and re-temper a magazine spring, I wish someone would educate me, perhaps in another section of this forum.
 
tikkidaddy said:
I'm no metallurgist, but the machete bein' a "sharpened flat spring" IMHO is a great idea, since your machete WILL come into contact w/ material such as rock, nails, wire, concrete etc.

The CSTM has been described by many a knife enthusiast as a "sharpened pry bar", however, I believe that title firmly rests w/ our friends at Himalayan Imports and the Chirrwa Ang Khola!

Cold Steel tends to run a bit more "middle of the road" now, w/ a 5 year warranty on fixed blades.

Why doesn't that extend to a CS machete (as far as I know, and forgive my ignorance if I am in need of an update here)??

Bscause folk just beat hell out of machetes, throw 'em in the truck, and go on.

So the steel needs to be "forgiving" enough to withstand a "field expedient" correction if it warps due to heavy use, such as processing heavier wood.

A magazine spring will eventually take a definitive "set" i.e. Glock magazines get easier to load after being under stress for about a week. These springs, in my experience must be regularly replaced to ensure proper function of the tool.

CS machetes can be straightened out many many times, w/ no apparent ill effect. So I may be wrong, but I cant see that as a true "set".

If a man knows how to stretch, de-stress, and re-temper a magazine spring, I wish someone would educate me, perhaps in another section of this forum.
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True enough, but after you bend and restraighten the metal so many times it will become fatigued. I'd love a good 20" Ang Khola, but it's out of my price range at them moment. The reason magazine springs wear like that is from constant pressure, and a spring steel machete will not constantly be bent and under stress. I just don't find it too much too ask for a springy machete. 5160 steel isn't all that expensive. Heck, 1075 is pretty springy. My experience with their machetes is what puts me off of buying any of their swords. I've seen swords cheaper than theirs be bent 90 degrees and return to true, like Cheness.
 
tikkidaddy said:
Cold Steel tends to run a bit more "middle of the road" now, w/ a 5 year warranty on fixed blades.

Why doesn't that extend to a CS machete (as far as I know, and forgive my ignorance if I am in need of an update here)?
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The 5 year info is no longer accurate, though it still shows up in the faq on their website for some reason. There are no longer any time limits on their warranty. :thumbup::cool:
 
G. Scott H. said:
The 5 year info is no longer accurate, though it still shows up in the faq on their website for some reason. There are no longer any time limits on their warranty. :thumbup::cool:
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Hey brother, GadZooks thats good to hear. I bought my first carbon 5 TM back when they were made by Hoffritz kitchenware to CS spechs. That knife will still hold up to 900 lbs on the handle junction!! Toughest damn "kitchen knife" you ever did see---LOL!! And yes, I have broken/cut large beef bones w/ it.

Their swords I cannot speak for as I (believe it or not...) dont own one!!

Id love to get my mitts on a Chisa Katana, even w/ handle, furnishings, scabbard defects. My wife and I could correct the cosmetic stuff. I tend toward modern materials, while keeping the traditional Japanese styling.

For anyone w/ questions on CS sword durability, check out the SWORD PROOF DVD, as well as youtube etc. I'm sure there are cheaper HC swords, but I want a side by side, independent heads up, using the CS proof vid standard.

Then if the cheaper sword outperforms CS, I'll buy BOTH!!
 
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