Machete Tech Question

Joined
Jul 9, 2006
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168
I carried a Tramontina 18 machete during my short-lived career as a surveyor. I always sharpened up to 4" from the tip. I saw no use for the tip to be sharp. That got me thinking about you guys discussing digging with knives. I noticed some really nice edges on your machetes'. We know where the sweet spot is. So, here goes.

Is there any benefit to sharpening the last few inches? Please enlighten me.

Matt
 
Yup...once you start using it as a 'camp knife' as well, a sharpened tip comes in handy. A short backedge is pretty helpful as well. Personally I'd rather make a couple slices and have a digging stick than dig with my tram.

I've cleaned trout with mine by kneeling, holding the handle between my knees and using the sharpened 'belly' to slice it open. Granted it was mostly just to see if I could do it.

Sharpened right up and with a backedge it makes a wicked drill - about like using a 3/4" countersink.
 
I left my trams tip unsharpened, adds a bit of weight to the end and I can dig with it.
 
I like a sharper tip..I just finished making a bowdrill set entirely with my tram today ised the sharpe edge at the end to dril the hole in the board.
 
I sharpen the whole edge but accept the front edge may take some abuse if I use it for digging. On the rare occassion I have used the point of a machete to dig, it didn't kill the edge enough to negate the effort of sharpening in the 1st place :)
 
I don't hesitate to chop a root or sapling off at the ground with a machete, I want the tip to be sharp, but not as thin as the rest of the blade, still needs to be sharp, but a nicks are expected and a thicker edge takes less damage:D
 
For what its worth I have machetes with both sharpened tips and non sharpened tips and I really can't say there's much utility gained in sharpening or loss of utility in leaving them blunt.

I use machetes to dig often, like every time I sleep on the ground and it doesn't affect their ability to cut because the sweet spot barely gets touched if you do it right. If it was blunt in the first place it is a moot point. If the point was sharpened digging will dull the edge on that forward part of the curve but, it just doesn't matter.

On my "personal 16 inch Tramontina", the one I don't loan to other people, the tip is sharpened and it has a slight false edge on the spine at the point. I do that to make the machete a better weapon, it has nothing to do with bushcraft. The Latin pattern Tramontinas will penetrate on a thrust if set up like this.

On my long working machetes, the ones I loan out to people for clearing land, I do very little to them other than giving them a file sharp edge. These blades get so beat up it would be depressing to spend any time on them. Often I end up putting them in a vice edge up, filing the edge off as in totally removing it, and refiling a totally new edge with no chips or rolls in it. Getting fancy with such a working blade, convexing it, putting the scandi edge near the base, etc would be a waste of time. I will say that on a long blade used for cutting tall grass that sharpening them to the point does seem to make the work go easier, but I'm not going to spend too much time on a blade that will eventually chop a cinder block or standing re-bar.

The mods I put on my bushcraft machetes are well documented here. Its just a matter of what you plan to do with your blade and how much time you want to spend doing it and maintaining it in the field. Having a sharp point is what most machetes lack but I also always carry either a folder or a Mora. If the machete was my only blade I would sharpen the tip, it certainly doesn't detract from the utility of the blade. Mac
 
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