Machete use and their handles

S

superc

Joined
Sep 30, 2003
Messages
382
Had the one below for the past 3 or 4 decades and had little use for it for most of them. That's no longer true. Been using it a lot this last week hacking a path in very thick brush wide enough for a Farmall with a bush hog to pass through. [Making a private jogging/hunting trail that can be mowed/bushogged as needed.] A real good work out for the elbows and shoulders. Not really that noticeable in the first hour or two, but by hour 5, you feel it. Anyway, I have several blades, but like this type as often felled trees are covered with Kudzu and the hook handles the vines nicely so the trees can be cut free and hauled out. Problem I am feeling most is in the handle. Does anyone still make this type but with a more cushioned handle? I see the new Ontario handles on their machetes, but their blades lack the hook. I was hoping CS made one, but no luck there either..

Bushwacker.jpg
 
I still use my BKT brute, all types of use, I did rehandle it for my hand in wood, but I found that it was easier than the BKT patrol macht. frankly 8-12 inches does it for me..G
 
This 'Bushwacker Limb Trim' is only 14 inches in blade length but it actually does a very good. However, if I can find one similar with a 20 or so inch blade, I might get that too.
 
Check out the Condor Tool & Knife "Beaver Tail" machete. It's a real brute of a chopper and has the brush hook on the back. Incredible machetes. I own and use three.

It looks like this
 
I am not sure that a five hour stint with any machete is going to feel good on your paws, but you could try to use a gardening glove. The rivets on your handle look like they could be buffed out a bit or smoothed over with a file. I have reprofiled most of my machete handles on my older 18 inch Ontarios, and they feel good in the hand.
 
That's a good design that I've never seen before. I'd keep on using it is if is effective for kudzu-taming.

I think that you just need to re-handle it. Either remove the grips and replace with some wood, micarta or hard rubber material like you can cut from a truck tire, -or you can reprofile it with beltsander, files and high-grit sandpaper.

You can also soften the grip a bit by wrapping it with foam tape.
 
If that blade is working for you, go down to Wallyworld and get some bicycle handle tape in the toy section. It is a cheap and quick fix.

-Mb
 
You might try cutting large rubber bands from a bicycle tire and stretching them over the handle. I did that with one of mine years ago and have really come to prefer it. It provides a bit of cushioning without decreasing the "grippiness."
 
Sad to hear Bushwacks are no longer made. I did look at Condor's machetes and also Woodsman's Pal and some other brands. I like this one.

I am in total agreement that the handle is the problem. The rivets and their washers are slightly recessed, so it isn't 'rivet bite' that tears my hand up. [It is too hot on an 80 - 90 degree day to wear gloves all day. I don't really mind (too much) the occasional blood when the berry bushes bite back (some of the older ones have thorns well over an inch long and an eighth to a quarter wide), but my palm does take a bruising from the repeated shocks when chopping.] Most of the back bite shock comes while chopping stumps to be low enough to just drive over with the tractor (it's anticipated the bush hog will do the rest). The machete handle's tail does most of the hand damage as the handle tends to spin a little in my grip on the awkward angle chops. A cutlass grip like the Ontarios looks practical as a means of not dropping the blade (happens sometimes), and their day-glo color is well understood. Really wish they came with a back hook.. I suspect the bicycle tube fix will be the best short term fix for this one. Thanks for that. New grips are definitely in the plans. Danke.
 
Last edited:
With some amusement, in the testing forum I found http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=201071
which contains the below quote from the maker of the AK machetes.

"About the fatigue factor for heavy blades compared to thin blades? Well I will admit that a thinner lighter blade isn’t gong to be as apt to cause fatigue as fast as a heavy blade. However one of the problems that has always been a concern and factor when using thinner, lighter blades is the shock transference into the users hands, wrist, arms, and joints. The symptoms are similar to what was at one time known as “tennis elbow.” We call some of these problems "CTS" now, and this leads to the burning in the hands, and forearm from the shock transference. It is fierce for the plastic handled cheaper machetes, and the really thin knives. Personnel that were using these knives in everyday operations were not happy at all. One thing about the heavier blades they do tend to absorb some of the shock from blade impact, and the better handle materials, and designs cause less blisters from hot spots, and/or from the smooth plastic composites. Some of the cheaper machetes that are floating around have wooden handle that are coated with clear “Shellac” that is strictly for show. Just as inferior shovel handles, hammer handles, rake or axe handles are fire-streaked, and Shellacked so are the cheap machete handles. They look pretty, but they will cause severe blistering of the hands with any prolonged usage."

So true. Did it again this morning. Ow!

A summation of the reply from one of our banned former members is; use the thin blades for vines and light stuff and the heavy blade for the harder woods.

Both writers (who are well known) find the shape of the grip to be very important for control and reduction of fatigue. After reviewing the (many) articles surrounding the thread I have decided that in addition to new grips, a reshaping of the Bushwack grip is probably in order.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top