maintenance and the KVT ball-bearing system

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Feb 24, 2012
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I, like many of you got my ZT801cf last week. It is my first knife with the KVT ball-bearing pivot system. I am also planning to get the ZT 562 when it comes out which also uses this system. It is very smooth but I am used to taking my knives apart for cleaning and maintenance. Are you able to easily disassemble and reassemble knives using this system? Is this a sealed system that does not require cleaning? Whats the deal with the KVT ball-bearing system when it comes to maintenance?
 
I took apart my ZT0777 when I first got it. I put a little grease on the bearings, but that was about it. The caged bearings are sealed pretty well, so there shouldn't really be any maintenance necessary.
 
The ball bearings are stainless steel I believe. If you live in a humid environment or close to the ocean; blasting some CLP into the pivot and then blowing out with compressed air should more than suffice. I live in a dry semi-desert environment, but I'm anal about taking case of my gear so I use the system described above just be safe.
 
I actually prefer a dry lube (teflon lube, tuf-glide, etc.) on the KVT vs. traditional oil. Even the oils that are supposed to resist gumming up seem to inevitably do so, and that will cause the KVT to feel sluggish. On the bright side, the KVT bearings are pretty easy to clean in hot, soapy water. They work fine dry as well. The bearings are steel, so I suppose there is a potential they could rust. I haven't seen or heard of any such cases though.
 
You really don't maintain the bearings any differently than you do washers. You just keep them oiled (bearings can be run dry without much issue) and clean them periodically. You disassemble the knife like it has really thick washers, since the bearings are caged they won't go anywhere.
 
I took apart my ZT0777 when I first got it. I put a little grease on the bearings, but that was about it. The caged bearings are sealed pretty well, so there shouldn't really be any maintenance necessary.

How did you get it apart? Do you have the special tool? Did you buy or make one? The pivot screw is a little loose on mine, and will probably require a little thread-lok to keep it from backing out again.

Some good ideas, here. I think the main thing is not to get too much lube. Attracts too much gunk and pocket debris, and that ends up gumming things up.
 
No, wait, I don't think bearings are stainless. I took my 801 with me in salt water, and the bearings rusted within a few days. Elmax was amazing, no corrosion, Ti was perfect, no corrosion; Perhaps the bearing are made from 52100 ;).
 
How did you get it apart? Do you have the special tool? Did you buy or make one? The pivot screw is a little loose on mine, and will probably require a little thread-lok to keep it from backing out again.
- The ZT0777 pivot screw is simply a Torx screw.
 
- The ZT0777 pivot screw is simply a Torx screw.

OH For F@#$%^ Sake!!! It's a T-8. I'm laughing so hard right now I'm darn near crying. ZT completely faked me out on that one. I guess I know what pair of glasses I wasn't wearing when I was fiddling with it the other day. How embarrassing... But go ahead and laugh. I hope you all live long enough to one day understand the importance of wearing the right glasses...especially when handling sharp things. WTF. I'm just sitting here shaking my head and thinking: 'me, of all people...'. :stupid: Can't f@#$% believe it...

Thanks tokerblue, I owe you one...
 
Laughing at dricharson67 right now...Don't feel too bad, I have better than 20/20 vision with glasses and it took me a little bit to figure out that it was just a torx.

I've had them on a few different knives and tried both grease and light oil. I really couldn't tell much of a difference between the two. The grease tended to hold a little more pocket lint though. In all seriousness, they are pocket knives not race engines. They don't see much load and aren't going to wear out any time soon. Your biggest worry should be rust. A little bit of any type of lube should keep the rust away. One lube may feel a little better than the other but probably protects about the same.
 
I have tested a lot of different lubes on my 0801... this is what I have found.

As far as lubing, the bearings really have no control over how smooth the knife is. What I mean is the bearings alone regardless of lube allow for free swinging action. The real variable to tinker with is lubing/the smoothness of the detent ball. That will have the most appreciable effect on how smooth your knife is. I wasted a lot of time trying to smooth out the bearings when I realized no matter what configuration I had, if I held the lock bar back, the blade swung freely every time no matter how sluggish or fast the action was with the detent in contact.

The first time I thought I had found my ideal set up for KVT was with White Lightning bike chain lube. Its a dry lube that dries to a waxy finish that repels dirt. Applied to the detent ball or the track the detent rides on makes my 0801 crazy smooth. I mean like unbelievably blade falls back into the handle like nothing crazy smooth. However I soon realized the faults of this choice. The waxy nature of the lube after it dries causes the detent ball to basically carve a new track through the wax, eventually pushing most of the wax to the side (think of a snow plow) and the smoothness decreases. Another fault was that the nature of the lube requires that you take the knife apart to apply it which I would rather be able to clean and lube with out taking apart if I am on the go. Another thing to note is I tried applying White Lightning to the bearings as well (before my revelation) which realllllly gummed them up. As far as the first ~20 flips go, there is nothing better than White Lightning, but for a user I want something more practical and long lasting.

Another ideal set up I went through was completely dry. No lube on bearings, blade, or detent. I liked this one because it was very simple and did not have any lube to attract gunk. It wasn't as smooth as the white lightning so I took out the blade and using a dremel polished the detent track. This helped smooth out the action immensely and I thought this was the setup I would run. But on a user that gets crap in the pivot, I like to be able to add a drop of oil to keep things smooth between cleanings. Again I like the action to be static with what ever set up I choose. I dont like a knife to be super smooth for the first 100 flips then get less smooth over time.

I settled on dry bearings with a rem oil lubed detent. This has given me the best most constant results and the detent can be reoiled easily with out dissassembly after and between cleanings.
 
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Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I used my ZT 0452 in ocean water and re-pocketed it forgetting to rinse it - I didn't have fresh water or CLP with me at the time. Next time I went to use it it was seized up pretty tight a couple days later. Oil got it back working decent but not like it used to so I'll clean it ASAP and CLP it since that's what I have around. It was seized up so tight I thought I'd lost the KVT's but they must just be corroded.
 
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