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All across the circumpolar regions, indigenous people utilized thin strips of bark to weave all sorts of things from baskets, pouches, sheaths, and even footwear. I went to Steve Watts at the Schiele Musuem of Natural History to learn how to make a Scandinavian birch bark pouch.
Some various examples of baskets
Enclosed is a short an brief photo how to on the use of white birch to make a pouch, using diagonal plaining. These are extremely easy to make as they basically only require one type of weave, one right over the other. The following pouch(es) utilized a 15 inch by 6 inch piece of bark, that was cut and split (delaminated) into 12 1/2 pieces plus some additional pieces.
Though I used scissors, I did try out this jig used to cut the strips. This jig allowed for pretty even strips the entire time.
Steve Watts demonstrating the first part of the weave. It is very important to get the square as even and tight as possible.
Cordage was used to secure this square portion that will become the bottom of the pouch.
Doubled over on each corner.
Hot water was used to soften the resin inside the birch bark. This resinous stuff is highly water resistant and doesnt tighten after it dries like other types of material. Our Birch was dead but was still easily worked. You can use willow, cherry, poplar, hickory, and a host of other materials including mylar and even newspaper if you wanted. Spring time is the best for harvesting most bark as the sap is running, however you can use heat, such as from a fire, if you are careful. The heat will also make the sap come closer to the surface to make separation of bark easier. In white birch though, this isnt really a problem. Some of the pictures at the beginning show a bark pouch made out of willow and red cedar.
When gathering any type of bark, roll it against itself, opposite the way it wants to shape. Bark will try as hard as it can to become a tree again. River Birch/Yellow Birch is not ideal for this type of work as it does not come off in the same types of sheaths. White Birch is available commercially, but man is it expensive. I was surprised to learn that 2 foot sheets can fetch about $25. Many people up north know it too, and have special birch spots for collection of the material. You can collect it without killing the tree (go about halfway into the bark layer, dont hit the inner woody part of the tree), but the scab that forms over the spot that you harvested from becomes nasty and knotted.
Folding over and starting the overlapping process
The pouch getting there.
At the top, more bark is added as a rim.
Except for the top, a strip of birch bark is wetted for lashing. Instead of just weaving around the top, an awl is used to push a hole through the bark and the strip is brought through. This makes for an even stronger lashing.
If you are interested in a VERY GOOD BOOK on Birch bark projects, History and uses, Steve Watts introduced me to this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Celebrating-Birch-Lore-Craft-Ancient/dp/1565233077
Some various examples of baskets
Enclosed is a short an brief photo how to on the use of white birch to make a pouch, using diagonal plaining. These are extremely easy to make as they basically only require one type of weave, one right over the other. The following pouch(es) utilized a 15 inch by 6 inch piece of bark, that was cut and split (delaminated) into 12 1/2 pieces plus some additional pieces.
Though I used scissors, I did try out this jig used to cut the strips. This jig allowed for pretty even strips the entire time.
Steve Watts demonstrating the first part of the weave. It is very important to get the square as even and tight as possible.
Cordage was used to secure this square portion that will become the bottom of the pouch.
Doubled over on each corner.
Hot water was used to soften the resin inside the birch bark. This resinous stuff is highly water resistant and doesnt tighten after it dries like other types of material. Our Birch was dead but was still easily worked. You can use willow, cherry, poplar, hickory, and a host of other materials including mylar and even newspaper if you wanted. Spring time is the best for harvesting most bark as the sap is running, however you can use heat, such as from a fire, if you are careful. The heat will also make the sap come closer to the surface to make separation of bark easier. In white birch though, this isnt really a problem. Some of the pictures at the beginning show a bark pouch made out of willow and red cedar.
When gathering any type of bark, roll it against itself, opposite the way it wants to shape. Bark will try as hard as it can to become a tree again. River Birch/Yellow Birch is not ideal for this type of work as it does not come off in the same types of sheaths. White Birch is available commercially, but man is it expensive. I was surprised to learn that 2 foot sheets can fetch about $25. Many people up north know it too, and have special birch spots for collection of the material. You can collect it without killing the tree (go about halfway into the bark layer, dont hit the inner woody part of the tree), but the scab that forms over the spot that you harvested from becomes nasty and knotted.
Folding over and starting the overlapping process
The pouch getting there.
At the top, more bark is added as a rim.
Except for the top, a strip of birch bark is wetted for lashing. Instead of just weaving around the top, an awl is used to push a hole through the bark and the strip is brought through. This makes for an even stronger lashing.
If you are interested in a VERY GOOD BOOK on Birch bark projects, History and uses, Steve Watts introduced me to this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Celebrating-Birch-Lore-Craft-Ancient/dp/1565233077
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