Makers: Post pics of your knives.

[ColeKiraKnives]

 

[Josh Rider]

https://postimage.io/

https://postimage.io/

 

[binch]

Hi guys,

This is my first knife. When I started, I didn't have a clear direction of where I wanted to go, so I ended up making a bit of a paring/hunting knife hybrid. I'll use it in the kitchen.

I did stock removal from a 1/8" bar of 1095. The entire shape and grind were done with a hand file set I bought at Walmart, some files found at garage sales, and a homemade jig. That's a lot of slow work, so I finally ponied up for a HF 1x30 to finish it up. I made four other knives with the grinder that still need finishing.

I had it heat treated a Phoenix Heat Treating here in town. That cost more than my grinder The handle is handmade micarta. Though the knife has plenty of flaws, I am happy with how it turned out. I learned from mistakes so hopefully the future knives will turn out better.

After oiling the handle and taking some pics, I can see where the handle needs a bit more finishing. Steel and handle are finished only to 400 grit. I should probably take it down to 600 or more.

Wow! That micarta is messy to grind! Micarta dust is all over my garage. I'll avoid using it on my next knives.

I have a set of number stamps, so I stamped "1095" into the ricasso just because. In hindsight, I'm not sure I like it.

Right now it's only "pretty sharp"; like only as sharp as my Ikea kitchen knives. I need to get proper sharpening equipment and learn to sharpen for real.

EDIT: I have since used the knife to prepare a couple meals. It cuts wonderfully. I now understand why we don't see so many round handles. The knife keeps rolling on the cutting board blade up. I'm impressed with how quickly the patina forms when cutting steak and chicken. Cutting onions seems to remove patina. Does that seem right?

 

[timos-]

Finally got these pair done...sayas done by Cody Paul

 

[Robert Erickson]

That's a great looking set Tim! Is that Amboyna or Ironwood?

Here's my latest for the kitchen. S35VN and Amboyna

IMG_5604 by Robert Erickson, on Flickr

IMG_5606 by Robert Erickson, on Flickr

 

[timos-]

Thanks, yours is looking fantastic too. Mine is honduran rosewood burl ....it looks so very similar to the amboyna burl. I also feel it pairs great with bog oak and blackwood especially.

 

[Robert Erickson]

Thanks, yours is looking fantastic too. Mine is honduran rosewood burl ....it looks so very similar to the amboyna burl. I also feel it pairs great with bog oak and blackwood especially.

Oh very nice, that stuff is top notch!

 

[jdm61]

Sweet!!!! I like rosewood burl better than amboyna and that's saying something because I really like amboyna. Who is Cody Paul? What wood did he use?

Finally got these pair done...sayas done by Cody Paul

 

[timos-]

Cody used Bolivian Rosewood. The only Amboyna I have used was actually nicer than the honduran rosewood IMO. It had zero voids and a brighter hue. I also inlayed some ammonite's into the butt end of these, It came out ok but I would probably approach that differently next time.

 

[DevinT]

Sanmai stainless clad w/tool steel core, mesquite wood w/paper micarta.

Hoss

 

[Willie71]

Sanmai stainless clad w/tool steel core, mesquite wood w/paper micarta.

HossView attachment 706521 View attachment 706522 View attachment 706523

That's gorgeous. Very understated, but the proportions are just right. What is the core steel?

 

[DevinT]

A2, liking this steel a lot right now.

Hoss

 

[timos-]

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[milkbaby]

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Sweet looking blade, Tim!

What steel is it? Is it etched multi layer san mai?

 

[timos-]

Heya, Its the NJSB stuff 52100 and 410 ss. I count 7 or 9 layers though i think...

 

[Willie71]

Heya, Its the NJSB stuff 52100 and 410 ss. I count 7 or 9 layers though i think...

I thought Aldo's San Mai is three layers. If it's more than three layers, it's not San Mai. Five layers is Go Mai.

 

[Willie71]

A2, liking this steel a lot right now.

Hoss

That's interesting. I stayed away from the air hardening steels for the longest time,and now that I'm trying some out, I'm really impressed. When I first started making knives four years ago, the advice was to use simple steels like 1095/52100/W2/hitachi steels, or Aeb-l. I was told the higher chromium steels had too course grain to be acceptable for kitchen knives. I haven't used A2, but I've been playing with z-wear and cru-wear.

 

[samuraistuart]

Those steels you mentioned, Warren, excel in edge stability, provided they are heat treated correctly, of course. Throw in the O-7 series (1.2442 and 1.2519) as well. As long as corrosion resistance is not the biggest concern, these steels behave very well at high hardness levels (62HRC+) and low edge angles (< 15° per side). Wear resistance has limited application in the kitchen, and none of these steels have high wear resistance...so they're easy to re-sharpen to a very keen edge. I never even cared for the idea of S35VN as a kitchen knife steel, personally. If corrosion resistance is a concern for the user, AEB-L would be my pick, due to it's ease of sharpening over S35VN, and can take a sharper edge more efficiently. These kitchen knife steels should be tempered hard, and with thin geometry, and low edge angles. I know you get that, Warren. Not preaching at you, more to the point...WITH you!

"I was told the higher chromium steels had too course grain to be acceptable for kitchen knives." Definitely not necessarily the case. AEB-L has over twice the Cr of A2, and we all know how fine the grain in that steel can be! If it's a kitchen knife that might see protein slicing duty quite heavily, I bet even D2 would work very well (probably best with the cutlery grade HT instead of industry standard HT). D2 and AEB-L have roughly the same Cr %, but the much higher Carbon % in D2 causes those large clunky carbides, while the relatively low Carbon % in AEB-L allows for the very small Cr carbides. You might even experiment with "pre-quench" on A2 for kitchen knives. Not the same as double quench, but pre-quenching (from what I gather) puts some carbon in solution up front allowing for lower hardening temp/shorter soak time. Thus smaller aus grain. Sub Zero "should" be used with A2, as well, due to higher RA levels, if not full on cryo temps. Speaking of Chromium in kitchen knife steels, here is a pic of my latest kitchen knife, a Tosogata inspired Santoku with Aldo's 52100 at 65HRC (normalized 1700F, 3x cycles, 1475F 10 minute soak, P50, 300F 2hours 3x). Edge was taken to "zero" with the full flat grind, and then sanded back just enough to reflect light and allow some meat for the edge. Took about 5 minutes to sharpen with the 1200 mesh DiaSharp, then refined with the EEF DiaSharp, 15° per side. It is incredibly sharp! For sale in the exchange if interested.

Thank you all for your pictures in this thread! Awesome kitchen knives, guys!

 

[Willie71]

Those steels you mentioned, Warren, excel in edge stability, provided they are heat treated correctly, of course. Throw in the O-7 series (1.2442 and 1.2519) as well. As long as corrosion resistance is not the biggest concern, these steels behave very well at high hardness levels (62HRC+) and low edge angles (< 15° per side). Wear resistance has limited application in the kitchen, and none of these steels have high wear resistance...so they're easy to re-sharpen to a very keen edge. I never even cared for the idea of S35VN as a kitchen knife steel, personally. If corrosion resistance is a concern for the user, AEB-L would be my pick, due to it's ease of sharpening over S35VN, and can take a sharper edge more efficiently. These kitchen knife steels should be tempered hard, and with thin geometry, and low edge angles. I know you get that, Warren. Not preaching at you, more to the point...WITH you!

"I was told the higher chromium steels had too course grain to be acceptable for kitchen knives." Definitely not necessarily the case. AEB-L has over twice the Cr of A2, and we all know how fine the grain in that steel can be! If it's a kitchen knife that might see protein slicing duty quite heavily, I bet even D2 would work very well (probably best with the cutlery grade HT instead of industry standard HT). D2 and AEB-L have roughly the same Cr %, but the much higher Carbon % in D2 causes those large clunky carbides, while the relatively low Carbon % in AEB-L allows for the very small Cr carbides. You might even experiment with "pre-quench" on A2 for kitchen knives. Not the same as double quench, but pre-quenching (from what I gather) puts some carbon in solution up front allowing for lower hardening temp/shorter soak time. Thus smaller aus grain. Sub Zero "should" be used with A2, as well, due to higher RA levels, if not full on cryo temps. Speaking of Chromium in kitchen knife steels, here is a pic of my latest kitchen knife, a Tosogata inspired Santoku with Aldo's 52100 at 65HRC (normalized 1700F, 3x cycles, 1475F 10 minute soak, P50, 300F 2hours 3x). Edge was taken to "zero" with the full flat grind, and then sanded back just enough to reflect light and allow some meat for the edge. Took about 5 minutes to sharpen with the 1200 mesh DiaSharp, then refined with the EEF DiaSharp, 15° per side. It is incredibly sharp! For sale in the exchange if interested.

Thank you all for your pictures in this thread! Awesome kitchen knives, guys!

I agree with you completely. Even with the relatively high alloyed z-wear, it will take a very fine edge and show incredible stability at high Rc#'s. I much prefer it over S35VN. It sharpens easier than S35VN too. Now if it would only get a whispy active hamon.... sigh......

 

[Rhinoknives1]

That's interesting. I stayed away from the air hardening steels for the longest time,and now that I'm trying some out, I'm really impressed. When I first started making knives four years ago, the advice was to use simple steels like 1095/52100/W2/hitachi steels, or Aeb-l. I was told the higher chromium steels had too course grain to be acceptable for kitchen knives. I haven't used A2, but I've been playing with z-wear and cru-wear.

Who on earth told you that?
One of my favorites for 10" or Larger Chef Knives is good ole 440C RC 60

Here is one of 7 3/4" Asian Chef, CPM S35VN RC 62 with stabilized & Double dyed Maple, Loveless Bolts. With my Patented Pinch Grip Butterfly on spine.