Making a knife out of hardened steel

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Apr 15, 2019
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Occasionally the question comes up of making knives from already hardened steel. I figured I would show some of the steps I do when making knvies out of power hacksaw blades.

Years ago an older knife maker in Australia was kind enough to mentor me into my exploration of knives and steel. John was adamant that one of the best hardened steels for making knives out of is Starrett Redstripe HSS power hack saw blades. He contended the heat treat is on an industrial level so a good quality and since they are HSS they can take more heat when grinding which is a benefit.

The steel of the phbs is probably M2 or something similar so they do not grind like butter but for beginning sometimes slow grinding is a good thing as it is harder to make a major mistake.

At times you can find very good deals on phbs off of eBay. There are many different sizes and thicknesses of the blades, I would recomned finding a phb that is 0.075 inches thick so you have less material to remove.

Unfortunately my only phb left in the shop was 0.100.



A cut off wheel on an angle grinder works well for rough cutting out your pattern. Be mindful of the heat created when cutting out the blank, cut wide of your pattern lines so you can clean up any haz on a grinder. Also be aware that cheap cutoff discs have been know to break in use so wear plenty of safety gear.



Rough cut and ready for shaping on the grinder.



I was asked about hardness of the phbs so I surface ground and checked Rockewell. Yes they are hard, perfect for a slicing knife.



Now the fun part, tang holes.

I made a divot where I wanted the tang holes using a small dremel diamond bit.



Then I use cheap Amazon tile and glass spade bits. I did destroy a couple of the bits in drilling the holes. Even when the bits start fracturing I keep applying pressure until the bits completely stop cutting.



The 1/4 inch bits were not actually 1/4 so I used a carbdie tungsten burr to open up the holes.



Good luck!
 
Lots of opinions on these knives..... I've always been open that I Love them.... They definitely have a certain Charm....and stay sharp (or dull) forever. :D

My only suggestion and this is for ALL cutting knife profiles, regardless of steels.... Drill holes in the blank Before cutting the profile. Its usually easier to hold down the part with parallel edges.

-Looking forward to this write up, I'll check back in a couple weeks.... 😂 (grinding joke)
 
I found that a regular carbide bit works well to do the first hole through a hardened tang, and then use the Glass Spade bits, or Milwaukee White Tipped Natural Stone bits to open up that hole. It seems to be easier when there is a hole through the blade that you are opening up versus trying to use a stone bit to go through on it's own. A 1/8" carbide bit is like only $5 online!

The glass spade bits with the 4 edges work a lot better than the 2 edged versions, too, less chippage and they last longer I found.
 






Handle is a little short as I did not have enough steel to make my normal pattern.

I ground in the distal taper and tapered tang using surface grinder attachment. I used a partially worn 50 grit VSM but should of used the 60+ grit cubitron as the scratch marks were a royal pain to remove.

I am really like the Liberty Wood.
 
Nice.

I have one brand new blade, about 3mm, some of an old knackered one, and a thinner one. I have used them for shop knives, particularly wood work marking knives and kiridashis. The other thing the saw blades are good for is handle broaches! Even on a mostly knackered blade there will be some unused teeth at the ends.
 






Handle is a little short as I did not have enough steel to make my normal pattern.

I ground in the distal taper and tapered tang using surface grinder attachment. I used a partially worn 50 grit VSM but should of used the 60+ grit cubitron as the scratch marks were a royal pain to remove.

I am really like the Liberty Wood.

That Liberty wood really has my interest? What color is that on your knife? To bad there is no international shipping from what I can tell
 
Current may ship internationally? Call and ask to talk to Ari! That looks like their walnut or rosewood color?
 
It's more like the real Dymondwood stuff and buffs up beautifully! Great for kitchen knives and stuff like that.
 
It's more like the real Dymondwood stuff and buffs up beautifully! Great for kitchen knives and stuff like that.
Can anybody compare it to Richlite?
That has been pretty good so far, although it looks kinda drab
 
It's a wood laminate, not a paper laminate. It's very much like the original dymondwood, not as dull looking and much harder than dymalux.
 
It's a wood laminate, not a paper laminate. It's very much like the original dymondwood, not as dull looking and much harder than dymalux.

Dymondwood is Good?
 
Dymondwood was much nicer than dymalux. It was harder and nicer colors and didnt splinter like Dymalux does. The dymondwood factory burned down many years ago and the newer replacements werent the same quality. Liberty Wood is as good or better than the older Dymondwood IMHO. Dymalux is softer and dents easily.
 
David Mary David Mary I finally got around to sharpening the 67 Rc phb knife. I was sharpening it along side a 63 Rc Cruwear knife for comparison. Only difference I noticed was when I was establishing the secondary bevel on a 600 grit diamond plate the phb cut slower but was still easy compared to a vanadium steel like 10v.

My stone progression was relatively quick from 600 diamond to 600 ceramic wet stone to 1500 ceramic wet stone to fine spyderco ceramic to 3 passes per side on a leather strop with 1U gunny juice.

Both knives had about the same BESS score. I could of spent more time or different stones and dropped the BESS lower but I was content.

 
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