Making a Machete

[mcswood]

I'd like to figure an ave. on what folks would like to
see in a machete.
Length.
Width.
Thickness.
And style.
USES. I like to build toward function.

The steel (if I do any) will be 1075 or 95 carbon.
Full tang of course.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Most popular lengths are 18" and 14". Personally I like larger blades in the 20-24" range best. Width is kind of arbitrary because it will depend on a few different factors like the overall length and balance and if there's any distal taper or not. For uses most folks mentally gravitate towards thinking they'll be chopping more heavy targets than they really will be vs. small branches and brambles/scrub growth so bear that in mind.

 

[zhyla]

I use a machete as a basic landscaping tool. My number one requirement is that it be under $10. That doesn't really lend itself to custom makers very well. I do like a hook on the back of the blade like the cane machetes have.

 

[mcswood]

Can't do a distal taper and keep the price in machete range.
A full flat grind on an 1/8" blade should be fine in 1095 for strength
while still being light in hand.
I'd probably start with 20" blades in blank form and shorten from there
as desired.
It's only limitation in heavy chopping should be the depth of cut because
of it's lack of weight / mass.
It should come through it unscathed.
No bending, rolling or pitting.
And the handle should be comfortable
with every swing. No stinging.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

You can work around a lack of distal taper as long as you're 20" or less in blade length. It's only over that mark that it starts really becoming necessary to avoid floppiness, so you're good on that front.

Depth of cut won't be a major limiting factor in most machetes from a fundamental design standpoint namely because of the fact that machetes tend to lack the requisite thickness to prevent binding in very deep cuts. As a result, heavy targets that require more than 1-3 blows need to be tackled by using multiple lighter cuts that don't excessively bind. Machetes of the heavier chopping designs like my Baryonyx Machete are able to bite 1" or more per blow which allows them to one-hit some pretty stout stuff, but you'd be foolish to try going through a 6" log with blows that deep because the work to free the blade would outweigh any benefit of the deep bite per blow. However, nibble away at it with blows mostly propelled by the weight of the machete and you'll work your way through in good time without getting stuck.

 

[not2sharp]

Can't do a distal taper and keep the price in machete range.
....

I do not know which price range you are targeting, but if the idea is to come up with a good workable machete with a heavier 1/8" blade, you may want to take a look at the Collins no. 1250 machete.

n2s

 

[EChoil]

I do not know which price range you are targeting, but if the idea is to come up with a good workable machete with a heavier 1/8" blade, you may want to take a look at the Collins no. 1250 machete.

n2s

That's a bolo. My preference.

 

[EChoil]

double

 

[davek14]

I really like this cane knife shape. I made it to take down Arundo Donax which is like bamboo near the bottom.

1/16" spring steel.

 

[marksmandowntown]

Hi Michael,
Something like this done your way would be appropriate.

 

[Vicarious Reality]

Hi Michael,
Something like this done your way would be appropriate.
[IMG[/IMG]

Is that a Becker khukri model from Far Cry?

I like the CS lasher Latin machete, 24 inch chopping machine
The condor Golok is really nice but i think they chose way too thick blade steel and then distal tapered it to make the balance totally unsuitable for chopping