Making a small inshave

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Jan 13, 2015
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Hello to all at Blade Forum. Thought I would tap in to the wealth of knowledge coalesced here. I am new to blade making and have a very specific tool I wish to try my hand at. I wish to make a sort of drawknife blade that is curved. Perhaps you might call it an inshave. A radius of perhaps no more then 1.5 to 2.0 inches. I plan on using it to quickly remove wood from the inside of the bowl of spoon. I think I might try cold bending some O1 tool steel. I have a piece of 3/32" thick by 1/2" wide. I think this will bend really easily in the annealed state. Then I would simply harden gas or coal forge and temper. My main question is weather I can/should put my primary bevel on the outside of the piece first before bending or after bending. Will the bending distort or make the bevel too think with the stretching/compressing that will happen. Please share your thoughts.

Many thanks....
 
That's an interesting project

I might use thinner material like one sixteenth.


I would put the bevel on first before bending.
 
A draw knife seems big for a spoon. Maybe a small reverse spoke shave or a thumb plane? Unless you are talking about the single handled hoop style knife.

First, you mention cold bending. Why? If you have access to a forge I suggest getting a piece of 1/2" round bar, hammering the center portion into a blade profile specific to the task and then bending the handle ends appropriately. Stick on some handles, peen the ends and viola! Then profile the blade on the grinder and HT the puppy.

At any rate, I don't think you'd hurt anything doing some shaping prior to the bend. You'll have to wait till it is all in proper form to do the final shaping though.

I'll underscore this with saying I've only repaired a handful and made a few, all straight blades. The type used to debark a log for instance. And I've only held a single handled hoop style once. But, the thickness of the blade pretty much always depends on the work being done. For heavy departing and profiling of a log the blade is probably closer to 3/16". For a spoon I would agree with the Count. 1/16" blade section would do fine.

Post a WIP. Cool project. 👍
 
Thank for your thoughts/ideas/wisdom...here is a video of the scorp/inshave I wish to replicate. Perhaps this is inform as to why I think my method will work. Perhaps offer your reflections....

[video=youtube;c6kLumgTX54]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6kLumgTX54[/video]
 
As mentioned, this will be a good project Oxenpull. Scorps, inshaves, drawknives and spokeshaves are all fading from use way too fast considering their well-established capabilities.

Another option to consider would be a hook knife. I built this one several years ago for a specific job but keep it close at hand due to raw versatility.

GSNKAP5.jpg


The blade here was forged from 3/8" W1 drill rod and the handle is Red-Tip Photinia. It can be used with either one or two hands and is double-edged so
cuts on both pull and push strokes. It is straight-up to build and to maintain its edges and, since it has a variable radius from heel to tip, it handles a wide range of cross-grain or downslope cuts without any bitching. For carving green stock like in the video above, it is excellent in terms of controlled power. Makes you wonder how you got along without...

To be clear, this design and my sincere thanks belong to Scott Richardson of B.C. Canada. If you decide to make your own, he was kind enough to share all the key points right here:

http://www.caribooblades.com/makingahook.html

Finally, whatever you decide I would not advise cold bending any tool steel intended to do serious work. That would be both unnecessary and a recipe for several potential problems down the road in my opinion. Heat it to at least 400F then take your time. Even without a forge, a plumbers torch backed by a pan of wood ash should be adequate here.

Good luck and hope to see what you come up with.
 
Andy,

Can you explain why cold bending is both unnecessary and a recipe for several potential problems down the road? It is quite common for blades to be cold bent. Robin Wood, preeminent pale lathe bowl turner, makes cold bent hook knives in Sheffield. He hardens them and tempers after the Primary bend and bevel has been made. My project is specific and will be brought to fruition, with all the advisements under consideration. I am a user of hook knives both small single hand tools from both Robin and Deepwoods Ventures. Also the larger Twca cam of Wales. The Scorp/inshave is for the initial quick and efficient remove of wood from a spoon bowl to be followed, if necessary with a gauge and/or hook knife. My interests lay more in greenwood working. Metal smiting is a means to an end within woodworking.
 
In conversation with a colleague at work whom has lots for metal machining experience suggest that even in an annealed state the O1 steel will still be prone to cracking when bent in a cold state. Andy's suggestion to at least heat the steel to 400 will make the bending more successful. It is still in a more or less "cold" state and I can see why taking some the stress out of the steel during bending will be a very good idea. Andy would you be willing to explain in more detail what in your words "a recipe for several potential problems down the road" I am very interested in understanding the dynamics of steel. This video is great....[video=youtube;hw4Rl0uG7ok]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hw4Rl0uG7ok[/video]
 
Andy would you be willing to explain in more detail what in your words "a recipe for several potential problems down the road" I am very interested in understanding the dynamics of steel.

Sure. I said cold bending is unnecessary because even the most simple means to apply controlled heat would be adequate for this small project. If you have the gear to cowboy a HT, you should be set.

The main problem of cold forming is the potential to greatly increase unequal stresses within the stock which result from distortions in the steel's lattice structure. As you continue to work, crystalline dislocations/atomic-level gaps in the lattice begin to form once the elastic yield point is exceeded. Eventually this will lead to micro fractures that can't be repaired by normalizing.

The consequences of this are tools that may snap at quench, even if using the most appropriate quench temps and medium, or unexpectedly fail during routine use. Or you may find blades that receive optimal HT but still have unpredictably weak chippy edges that are difficult to maintain in the geometry needed for the job. Thinking of field-sharpened scythes and bent paper clips here.

I hear you though in that cold forging has been going on a long time and sure you're aware that your O1 stock was likely cold rolled from the mill. Bending a hook blade cold would likely work out well enough but, considering the above, I choose not to take the risk. If you do form it cold, most here would probably suggest you take the time to normalize well before HT. This will "reset" the grain to be uniform throughout the working edge and also reduce/refine its size if done well. Huge stresses will still exist in the blade's steel, but they will be more balanced and hopefully serve, rather than hinder, performance.

Practical thoughts from a hack; since such small thin sections are springy and lose heat so fast, I simply heated one end of some ~1" round to forging temp, locked that up in my post vise and used a mallet to curl my blade over that radius in one "heat" of the big piece. I imagine that was faster, easier and healthier than beating on it cold but your mileage may vary. Hope this helps.
 
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