Making a Walking/Hiking stick questions

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Apr 1, 2011
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Hey all, The neighbors had some sassafras cut down in their yard and the trees were about the perfect height and thickness to make walking sticks from. I haven't set out to make a walking stick before, usually just found and used what was available at the time. I've been trying to read up on it, but have found the information kind of limited. Anyway, the wood is still very green, it has been a relatively dry summer though. Should I leave the bark on until it dries? Is there anything else I can do to prevent cracking as it dries? Any other tips?
 
Experiment- try some with bark ,some without. Some of mine split some do not. I like cedar but have all kinds. Boiled linseed oil gives them a nice finish.(Even the ones with splits still work fine.)
 
I like to leave a Y shaped fork on the end. With tines from one to two inches long. Im not gonna list the uses . If you hike around with one you will use the forked end a lot.
 
dipbait: I was specifically looking for forked ones but they had removed all the branches for burning prior to me getting them. Thought they would be handy to have around during turkey season in the spring for snakes or holding trap caught animals (in season).
 
Keyser,
I would leave bark on and seal the ends with pruning sap, wax , linseed oil or paint until fully dry. I would also seal any breaks in the bark- then start working them around mid winter.
I started carrying bamboo sticks form Lowes for 1.99. I just cut to length being mindfull of having a joint close to each cut, wrap the handle with para cord, then rubber tape. for about 2.50 they work pretty good & are light.
Bill
 
My son and I made a few and included a 1 prong "gig tip. Took a small T nut, made up barbed gig prongs from nails. Expoy the nail into the T nut. PLace nail inside end of hollow bamboo and place rubber chair leg tip over it, add a little 100 mph tape to make sure rubber cap stays on. If you need the gig, just remove cap, turn nail/T nut around and slide cap over the nail..... instant fish/frog gig :)

If you get a fat peice, there is room in the hollow for a few small items- fish hooks and a jig, tinder, small firesteel... All something to play with for little $$ outlay. I made a small wooden plug with spider wire attached, push it to the bottom of the hollow first, keep the line hanging out, then put my items inside, that way when I want to get the items out, I just pull the spider wire and the plugs pulls everything out. You can wind fishing line, snare wire and para on the outside- still keeps the stick light.
Bill
 
I like to leave a Y shaped fork on the end. With tines from one to two inches long. Im not gonna list the uses . If you hike around with one you will use the forked end a lot.

Well, this is another one of those simple "why didn't I think of that" tips that I have picked up on BF. Thanks DB.
 
If you want a walking stick that won't split or crack. Seal the ends with varnish or glue and stick it in an unheated shed or barn for at least a year to cure properly. It's best to cut them in the fall and winter when the sap isn't running. I've got some black locust, elderberry and a huge holly stick and others curing in my shed. I've been tempted, but I know better. They have a couple of months until they're ready.
 
I've made a bunch of hiking sticks over the years. I often give them away as gifts. Here is how I do it.

-Pick a nice straight piece of hardwood.
-Cut your raw material with at least 4" extra on each end.
-Strip the bark and inner bark as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the harder it is to do.
-Let the stick dry out of the sun for about a month.
-Any cracking during the drying process will happen on the ends which will be cut away.
-Whittle or rasp off the knots, and do any additional whittling needed.
-Cut to desired size, round off the top and fix up the bottom with a rubber, metal tip or not.
-Sand.
-Finish with whatever wood treatment floats your boat. I use Tung oil.

Using this method, I've never had any cracking or splitting, and you don't need to wait a year for your stick.

Here are some of my sticks:

Sorry the pics didn't come out so well.

From Left to right:

Tulip, White Birch, Maple, Dogwood, Yellow Birch

wlakingsticks003.jpg


wlakingsticks004.jpg


wlakingsticks006.jpg


These are all over a year old, and none have cracked.

The beat up one on the left (The Tulip) is my favorite because it's super light and strong, but I like them all. The birches aren't the strongest. The dogwood and maple are also super strong but a bit heavy. One day I'll finish the white birch, or harvest a better specimen.
 
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here's a tip: cut our route out a small indentation at the top of the walking stick and glue a small button compass in there
 
For sassafrass, since it's kind of soft wood, I usually leave the bark on and seal the ends. When it's dried, I sand down the bark some before sealing and it leaves a nice texture for gripping.

I'm not sure I follow the frog gig nail/nut arrangement mentioned above. Any pics of that lmalterna?
 
Keyser,
I would leave bark on and seal the ends with pruning sap, wax , linseed oil or paint until fully dry. I would also seal any breaks in the bark- then start working them around mid winter.
I started carrying bamboo sticks form Lowes for 1.99. I just cut to length being mindfull of having a joint close to each cut, wrap the handle with para cord, then rubber tape. for about 2.50 they work pretty good & are light.
Bill

I agree. I also use bamboo sticks (but from WalMart) - they are cheap, light and strong.

BTW, here are 3 previous threads on walking sticks that you might find interesting. 1, 2, 3.

Doc
 
I do my sticks the same as beanbag. I take the bark off as soon as possible and let the stick airdry for a month or two.

I then do any sanding/further whittling on the stick and treat it with a varnish/oil (optional).
 
I have done a few with ash.
If they are at all green, I hang them from rafters by using a small eye screw in one end, so the shaft hangs and dries straight. After a few months, depending on how green they were from when they were hanged, I peel the bark off and let them dry another month or so. I do not seal the ends, but leave the sticks long enough to trim off any cracks. After they are dried completely, the sticks are cut to length, then are sanded and finished with gunstock oil, which is mostly linseed oil, with a few additives that I understand help harden the finish a bit more than straight linseed oil.
 
I still prefer to wait at least a year for a choice stick to cure. It's worth the extra effort.

mapletwist1.jpg
cherrytwist1.jpg
 
Mossyhorn, do you peel your sticks right away, or do you wait until they are partially cured, or wait all the year before skinning them?

Nice sticks, by the way.
 
The easiest way I have found to get a quality bamboo walking stick is to just cut the basket off an old cross country ski pole

Already has a nice handle and strap with a quality plastic and steel tip

Bet you know someone with a few of these dusting away or are cheap to get in garage sales
 
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