Making San Mai in a different way

There where some people selling “Damascus” “pattern welded” steel awhile ago that where basickly just drawing on the steel with the welder. Not any particular patterns just random lines and stuff.
 
I did not say it was good I just said I have seen it.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I'm interested to see how it looks before and after HT once it is ground/milled flat.
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I'm trying to figure out how to do this .I would like stainless to remain quite deep in bevel .I mean as close to edge as I can.....something like this.....even more close if I can do that ? Obviously I must first grind bevels deep enough . Hey, can I do hamon too if I use 1095 ? Anyway I think that first I will try on narrow piece of steel for Puukko blade .The grinding angles are bigger so there is no problem to stay more SS steel on bevel .

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JTknives said:
There where some people selling “Damascus” “pattern welded” steel awhile ago that where basickly just drawing on the steel with the welder. Not any particular patterns just random lines and stuff.
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I would really appreciate your opinion about this , JTknives JTknives
 
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To get the SS closer to the edge, I think you are gonna want to grind maybe a bit more deeply.

It may be easier to weld up the flat bar stock and then forge it back down to flat bar.
 
To forge would be best .So far I make only one knife that way ,from ball bearing .I don t think that I will do that right in this case . Tomorrow I was intending to try but now I see other problem .I have not electrical oven for preheat ? Friend have one in his machine shop but I m not familiar with his welders .... only to bring my welder there , and when they see what I will weld they will laugh long time :D
 
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Just use a torch. Get it up as hot as practical. The big point of a preheat when welding steel with a lot of carbon is to slow the cooling curve of the puddle, keeping stress low and possibly preventing martensitic transformation (though with all the chrome in the SS filler, your puddle will have haigh hardenability). Preheats for this sort of thing don't have to be all that precise.
 
Well I found the right way to do this ...... before welding I will grind from SPINE side not bevels to get what I want :D
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joedhiggins said:
Just use a torch. Get it up as hot as practical. The big point of a preheat when welding steel with a lot of carbon is to slow the cooling curve of the puddle, keeping stress low and possibly preventing martensitic transformation (though with all the chrome in the SS filler, your puddle will have haigh hardenability). Preheats for this sort of thing don't have to be all that precise.
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Torch................ it is not recommended to use gas for preheat steel for welding , at least I remember that way ?
 
joedhiggins said:
Just use a torch. Get it up as hot as practical. The big point of a preheat when welding steel with a lot of carbon is to slow the cooling curve of the puddle, keeping stress low and possibly preventing martensitic transformation (though with all the chrome in the SS filler, your puddle will have haigh hardenability). Preheats for this sort of thing don't have to be all that precise.
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I was planned to use refractory brick under steel to keep heat on steel ? What do you think about that ?
 
Natlek said:
I was planned to use refractory brick under steel to keep heat on steel ? What do you think about that ?
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I would. Use a welder’s third hand to ground the peice. You may get extra distortion from heat build up because of the brick.
 
Maelstrom78 said:
Nice. Now I have a reason to pick up an AC/DC tig!
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I would encourage it, but you don't need AC for this application. Check out Everlast and AHP for reasonable prices. I would avoid the new domestics from a cost/performance/warranty standpoint right now.
 
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