Making the awl of a Victorinox/Wenger soldier into a philips screwdriver

U

Ultraman

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Oct 28, 2005
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Just a shot in the dark here, but would anyone have an assessment on whether the awl on the alox soldier can be made into a phillips screwdriver? I got to thinking this might be possible when I was looking at one of my Wenger packlocks. It had an in-line (not T-handled) philipps screwdriver, however, it was shaped flat (missing the other two flanges that are at 90 degrees to each other).

It doesn't look like a clean ninety degree angle, but maybe it can be done with judicious grinding. I realize you lose the utility of the awl in the process.

Thanks in advance.
 
I suggest that you don't even consider ruining a tool that is more useful than a Phillips screwdriver would ever be under most circumstances. The awl, especially when it is at the end of the handle as it is on the Victorinox Farmer, Pioneer, and Soldier, is extremely useful in a wide variety of ways. Take a closer look at the small flat screwdriver at the tip of the can opener (not the bottle opener) on the knives I mentioned above. As an aircraft mechanic I used it to tighten the standard #2 Phillips head screws used most commonly on aircraft when I would find one that had vibrated loose on my routine "walk-around" inspections before each flight. It worked very well for occasional use on those Phillips screws. Personally, I don't care for any of the SAK tools that come out the middle of the back side of the handle, with the possible exception of the corkscrew, and I don't buy anything in a bottle that's corked up anyway. My tastes in wine are simply not that sophisticated. :D
 
Dr. Mudd is "right on". Victorinox claims that the small screwdriver on the can opener is also for Phillips screws. It does work for that purpose pretty well. Don't alter you awl, it's too useful.
 
Heed the doctor. Why waste a good tool when there is already a tool that will do well on phillips? And on large phillips just use the inside corner of the large screw driver with the nife held at 45 degrees.

On the soldier, and my Wenger SI i use the awl as another cutting edge with a chisil grind. It cuts and scrapes well, and the fine point has been usfull.
 
I was surprised at how well the end of the can opener worked on phillips screws. It doesn't look like it would be that good, but I find it much more useful than the mid mounted phillips which just can't get into those tight corners. I've built and stripped down PCs with it, no problem.
 
JOAT said:
I was surprised at how well the end of the can opener worked on phillips screws. It doesn't look like it would be that good, but I find it much more useful than the mid mounted phillips which just can't get into those tight corners. I've built and stripped down PCs with it, no problem.
Click to expand...

The can opener - phillips works well enough, but its inability to get into tight corners as you say is what made me wonder if the awl could be converted. The soldier's tools are limited where recessed phillips screws are involved.
Thanks for the responses.
 
I think it would be more useful to convert a philips to an awl rather than vice versa.lol.
But then i kinda loathe the spine mounted philips tool. Give me a corkscrew any day.
Many times i've been ready to purchase a particular sak then noticed it had a philips instead of a corkscrew.D'oh!
I have an OHT which i bought despite the presence of the philips. But every time i pick it up i think if only it had a corkscrew...and scissors,lol.
 
I think you would have to shorten the awl by at least half to make a semi-usable Philips. If you don't use the can opener tool to open cans you could modify that. Just slowly grind of the sharp opener part and the hook at the bottom of the tool. That would allow you too reach tighter spots. Just don't get it hot.
That being said, when I read this, I just had to put my red Pionier Rancher in my pocket for the day. I really miss having that awl! :O)
 
kodiak said:
I think you would have to shorten the awl by at least half to make a semi-usable Philips. If you don't use the can opener tool to open cans you could modify that. Just slowly grind of the sharp opener part and the hook at the bottom of the tool. That would allow you too reach tighter spots. Just don't get it hot.
That being said, when I read this, I just had to put my red Pionier Rancher in my pocket for the day. I really miss having that awl! :O)
Click to expand...

I've done that with many of my SAKs. Only I don't use a bench grinder. I use a dremel type rotary tool with a cutting wheel. I've gotten pretty good at it having done it to around 5 or 6 of my working SAKs. Now its a very very good screwdriver (philips or slotted) and its strong. I can install/uninstall rack mounted equipment, open equipment for repair, etc. . . The new all-purpose screwdriver (philips and slotted) gets into all tight spaces since the can opener parts have been removed.
NOTE: I cut enough of the hook away to make the remaining tool very easy to get into tight spots. This requires me to pack a little wading into the handle to keep the new screw driver elevated enough to be retractable via the thumb groove.
 
Assuming you carry keys on a regular basis I recommend getting one of those philips drivers shaped like a key. Pretty good for most situations where you dont have a tool-box and they fit anywhere a regular key will fit.
 
You can keep the awl and add the phillips layer and have both!

ALOXMODS004.jpg
 
Whoa! I love that! Is that a do-it-yourself or a production model? Because I've never seen an Alox SAK with that tool selection. Very nice.
 
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