Manix 2 in Maxamet !

Johnny boy, I was just wondering if it was the steel itself, or something about the rest of the knife.
Thanks for responding.

The Hap40 is great. Pretty easy to sharpen and holds up well. No rust or even natural patina and I don't really baby it. I would buy another model in the Hap40 no problem.

Hi Johnny, just loosen the pivot a hair with a torx wrench. All of those pivots are hand assembled so some come tighter than others and occasionally you need to back the pivot screw off a bit. You don't need to disassemble anything and it won't affect your warranty at all.

Thanks, I'll give it a shoot.
 
Another culprit is perhaps the lockbar pivot screw. Check that out and loosen up a bit. A two fingers snug is enough actually, no need to be so tight.
My HAP40 Stretch has some burrs on the lockbar, rubbing into the liner to one side. So when pivot AND lockbar screws were snug, it became rough. I fixed it by disassembly, no other choice. Hopefully yours is a simple fix.
 
my only concern with getting this model is that it cannot take apart to apply oil all over to avoid corrosion/rust. especially that high carbon blade behind the scales. any thoughts on this? can the blade be removed from these LW models at all?
 
I believe the newer ones use a screw at the pivot which will allow the blade to be removed. But if you put a drop of oil on each side of the blade at the pivot the oil will get pulled into the tight spots and leave a good film between the blade and washers.

I have a feeling it won't rust too bad with 5 percent chrome. It will likely stain the blade if you cut something acidic and don't wash it off right away but I don't think actual rust spots will be a concern unless it is left wet.

If it does rust more than you care for just pull out the blade and wash it good to get any oils off and drop into some vinegar and force a patina. It won't be shiny anymore and more a gray color but should be much less prone to rust.
 
well i have the maxamet mule and it did form a small dot of patina that could have turned into rust if i didnt catch it. rubbed it it for a while and re-oiled it again, so im not sure about your feeling about not rusting with 5% chrome, i dont want to find out lol. i may just force patina like you suggest (or stonewash it). Thanks for letting me know about the new versions of the LW with removable blades, that will help alot.

Edit: anyone know if a coated blade would be a good idea? can these be custom DLC coated (or something else)?
 
I believe the newer ones use a screw at the pivot which will allow the blade to be removed.

The S110V model even with a screw in the pivot would not allow the blade to come out without drilling out the rivets or breaking the scales.
 
Wow, pricing is 50% more than the Manix lwt in s110v!

I noticed the high price also. I m having enough trouble sharpening s110v. If it was not stainless I might give up on it. I might wait and see how others like this new steel.
 
I noticed the high price also. I m having enough trouble sharpening s110v. If it was not stainless I might give up on it. I might wait and see how others like this new steel.

do you have diamond stones or have you tried them? i use diamond and ceramic and have no issues sharpening most super steels.
 
I have no trouble with other steels but for some reason my s110v blade is hard for me to get extremely sharp. I do use diamonds.
 
I have no trouble with other steels but for some reason my s110v blade is hard for me to get extremely sharp. I do use diamonds.

since s110v is a different topic, please open a new thread to discuss, as that will be the most helpful to others having the same issues, or those who had the same problem with solutions can chime in.

For both maximum sharpness & edge retention you want a row of actually shaped & sharpened carbides in your edge, not just a row of whole carbides (which will do for coarser edge types, but they simply work better when sharp.)

Other abrasives will most certainly plough through the matrix and push the vanadium carbides out of the way, but due to their lack in hardness they are physically unable to refine those carbides.
a quote from another forum. he says he starts with silicon carbide 220 grit.

here's a thread on the topic on blade forums http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1180709-Manix-2-S110V-Need-Sharpening-Help
 
The S110V model even with a screw in the pivot would not allow the blade to come out without drilling out the rivets or breaking the scales.


Well, there you go. I've been away for awhile and haven't been following everything. I guess they are still using the stepped blade bushing that doesn't allow the blade to be removed?

Guess a screw doesn't always mean something can be taken apart.

And I expect the steel to easily stain and rust if damp. The blade finish will play a role but I imagine it doesn't rust nearly as easy as something like 1080 or 1095. But that is speculation.

I can't wait until this steel gets into the Para and some of the more popular models. I've been waiting a long time for something like this from the sound of it.
 
I have no trouble with other steels but for some reason my s110v blade is hard for me to get extremely sharp. I do use diamonds.

S110v is indeed a bit more fussy to work with when chasing high levels of sharp, diamonds or not. As mo2 mentioned though, that's a long discussion and probably one better had in a separate thread. :)

Edit: while we're on the subject though, I've heard from a couple of folks whose opinion I trust that Maxamet is a bit easier to work with in that regard. I'm looking forward to trying the steel and hope it proves to be a high wear resistance steel that is easier to take to "silly sharp".
 
love the steel so far in my mule. not a big fan of the manix.........nothing wrong with it, just doesnt have any curb appeal for me. id like the steel in a different model but, so be it.......
 
Ehh not sure, I like the color and the LW is a great knife, I have 3. That said, not sure it's worth spending the $$ on that when I already have the S110v version and a GB 2.

Is maxamet really that much better than CPM M4? They sound very similar: powder made non stainless steels capable of extremely high hardness and very good toughness with insane wear resistance. S110v is to me the ultimate stainless, it just lacks toughness, M4 has that but rusts...where does maxamet fit into the discussion?
 
Ehh not sure, I like the color and the LW is a great knife, I have 3. That said, not sure it's worth spending the $$ on that when I already have the S110v version and a GB 2.

Is maxamet really that much better than CPM M4? They sound very similar: powder made non stainless steels capable of extremely high hardness and very good toughness with insane wear resistance. S110v is to me the ultimate stainless, it just lacks toughness, M4 has that but rusts...where does maxamet fit into the discussion?

Good question.
 
Ehh not sure, I like the color and the LW is a great knife, I have 3. That said, not sure it's worth spending the $$ on that when I already have the S110v version and a GB 2.

Is maxamet really that much better than CPM M4? They sound very similar: powder made non stainless steels capable of extremely high hardness and very good toughness with insane wear resistance. S110v is to me the ultimate stainless, it just lacks toughness, M4 has that but rusts...where does maxamet fit into the discussion?

well as for edge retention its near the top
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...based-on-Edge-Retention-cutting-5-8-quot-rope

Same method as above, but with a coarse edge, 400 grit congress Silicone carbide, more optimal edge finish for max edge retention to highlight the differences in the steels.

Steel - # of cuts - Model - HRC Hardness - Geometry Measurement -

CPM 10V - 2400 - Phil Wilson Coyote Meadow - 64.5 RC - .004" behind the edge
CPM S125V - 2340 - Phil Wilson Bow River - 62.5 RC - .006" behind the edge
CPM S125V - 1960 - Big Chris Custom - 63.5 RC - .006 behind the edge
MAXAMET - 1940 - Spyderco MT-24 - 67-68 RC - .018" Behind the edge
CPM 10V - 1180 - Darrin Sanders Custom - 63 RC - .012" behind the edge
S110V - 1120 - Manix 2 - 62 RC - Regrind to .005" behind the edge.
CPM 10V - 1100 - Spyderco/Farid K2 - 63 HRC - .020" behind the edge.
CPM S110V - 1080 - Spyderco Military - 63-64 RC - .020" Behind the edge
CPM 20CV - 960 - Michael Raymond Starlit - 62 RC - .007" - .008" behind the edge
Z-A11 - 880 - Darrion Sanders Custom - 62.5 RC - .020" behind the edge/.070" spine thickness.
K390 - 820 - Mule - 62-64 RC
CPM S35VN - 760 - Darrin Sanders Custom - 62 - 62.5 RC - .006" behind the edge
CPM 4V - 740 - Big Chris Custom - 63 RC - .008" - .010" Behind the edge.
CPM M4 - 740 - Phil Wilson Custom - 65 RC - .015" Behind the edge.
S110V - 720 - Manix 2 - 62 RC - .030" behind the edge
Cru-Wear - 700 - Phil Wilson Custom Bow River - 63 RC - .005" behind the edge.
S30V - 620 - Michael Raymond Estrella Custom - 60.5 - 61 RC - .006" behind the edge
S110V - 600 - Mule - 60 RC - .015" -.018" behind the edge.
S90V - 600 - Benchmade 940-1 - 59-61 RC - .018" Behind the edge.
CTS-XHP - 540 - Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter - 63.5 RC - .020" behind the edge
CPM M4 - 500 - Spyderco Gayle Bradley - 62.5 - .022" behind the edge
S90V - 460 - Military - 60 RC
S90V/CPM 154 - Para 2 - 460 - ? RC
White Steel Laminate - 460 - HSC Custom - 63-64 HRC - .020" behind the edge
RWL-34 - Mule Team 22 - 440 - 61-62 RC - .020" Behind the edge
CTS 204P - 420 - Para 2
ZDP -189 - 420 - Endura 4 - 65 RC
Niolox - 420 - LX Blades - 59 - 59.5 RC - .006" behind the edge
BD1N - 420 - Phil Wilson - 60 HRC - .020" behind the edge
M390 - 400 - Benchmade 810-1401 Contego 60-62 RC
M390 - 380 - Military - 61 RC
ELMAX - 340 - ZT 0770CF - ? RC
ELMAX - 340 - Para 2 - ? RC
AEB-L - 340 - Tim Johnson Custom - 60 RC - .006" behind the edge
HAP-40 - 320 - Spyderco Endura - ? RC - .024" behind the edge
S35VN - 320 - Chris Reeve Sebenza 25 - ? RC - .021" behind the edge
CruForgeV - 300 - Bluntcut Custom - 62 HRC - .012" behind the edge
S30V - 300 - Military - 60 RC
PSF-27 - 280 - MT-19 - ? RC
Cru-Wear - 260 - Military - ? RC
CTS-XHP - 240 - Military - 60.5 RC
CTS-B75P - 240 - Mule
Sleipner - 240 - LionSteel PM2
Dozier D2 - 220 - Dozier K2
ELMAX - 220 - Mule - 58.5 RC
VG-10 - 160 - Stretch
AUS-8A - 160 - Recon 1
12c27 MOD - 120 - Opinel #8 - .012" behind the edge
XC90 - 80 - Opinel #8 - .012" behind the edge
so its better than m4 and 110 in edge retention. as for rust im not certain and i dont want to chance mine. it will patina that is for sure. i haven't used mine much since i dont have a sheath or scales yet. should be getting some Carbon scales from Halpern Titanium in a week, ordering monday. (anyone know of a sheath that fits the mule's perfectly?
 
Missed the Mule team, but to be able to get Maxamet in a folding configuration is even better.

I have gravitated away from FRN over the years, but I'm definitely in for one of these!
 
I am Very surprised to see the Cruwear down so far on that list. I have knives in s35vn, s30v, and a multitude of others, and it seems to out perform them quite handedly, aside from my M4...

Regardless, I will be in the market for one of these.
 
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